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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

preferred oil

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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 01:36 PM
  #1  
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preferred oil

I've got an 81 f150 w/ 302 and have always used 10w-40 maxlife in the truck. The original owner used it and that's what I've always used. I was too busy this week and the places around locally were all closed on the weekend. So my mother took my truck while I was at work and got the oil. But they put in 5w-30 standard oil. I didn't notice this until I looked at the paperwork. Besides the oil pressure reading a little low, will the lower oil cause any problems? I live in Texas and it's starting to heat up
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 02:19 PM
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I put 5w-30 in mine, advanced auto parts has that in their books as being the recommended oil for our trucks so you'll be just fine if not better off
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 02:25 PM
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I know the 10w-40 stays thicker when it gets hotter and allows the oil to stick to moving parts better keeping it all lubricated. I can tell it'll be a hot summer and I run the truck in anything from 30 degrees to 110 and I've had no problems. I just didn't know if the truck would receive more wear since the summer season is starting with hotter temperatures and no more cold starts
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 03:49 PM
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Should be just fine. It's the viscosity of 30WT when hot anyways. Not much different than 10w30.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 04:03 PM
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I run valvoline 10w50 in mine. 20 weight oil is good for temps 30* and up and it doesnt get below 30 around here much.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2016 | 04:47 AM
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15-50 Mobil1, prefer 20-40.
All synthetic. Will have to look at valvoline
Would really like to use plain old Havoline 30W.
Just can't find it anymore.
Back in the old auto machine shop days when an engine came in that had been
running Havoline 30w they were usually in better condition and cleaner internally.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2016 | 07:35 AM
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10-40 year round, never had a problem cold starting or using oil
 
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Old Mar 5, 2016 | 08:12 AM
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Thinner oil will actually circulate faster than thicker stuff. This is of particular note during cold starts, as it will allow lubrication to reach moving parts sooner, less wear results from this.
Older engines will read a slight drop in oil pressure with thinner oil, since it can flow freer. Less resistance to flow, less pressure in the system, but even greater volume of flow.
Higher volume of oil gives better protection versus higher pressure, although there is a point where the pressure can be too low for oil to squeeze into the space between moving parts. General rule of thumb, 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM is more than safe, so long as the flow is good.

The only real issue with newer oils in older engines, is the reduced ZDDP levels. Over time, this can lead to excessive wear on the cam & lifters. Easily avoidable with additives that contain the ZDDP needed for older engines.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2016 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Thinner oil will actually circulate faster than thicker stuff. This is of particular note during cold starts, as it will allow lubrication to reach moving parts sooner, less wear results from this.
Older engines will read a slight drop in oil pressure with thinner oil, since it can flow freer. Less resistance to flow, less pressure in the system, but even greater volume of flow.
Higher volume of oil gives better protection versus higher pressure, although there is a point where the pressure can be too low for oil to squeeze into the space between moving parts. General rule of thumb, 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM is more than safe, so long as the flow is good.

The only real issue with newer oils in older engines, is the reduced ZDDP levels. Over time, this can lead to excessive wear on the cam & lifters. Easily avoidable with additives that contain the ZDDP needed for older engines.

Easily avoidable by running Valvoline VR1 racing oil, it is formulated with higher ZDDP levels for older flat tappet engines. Its cheaper in the long run as you don't have to keep the additive on hand especially if you have to add oil to your engine every so often.


Now as far as flat tappets goes I run plain Valvoline oil in my 302 which is 20w50, mainly to combat knurled valve guides, plus older engines were designed or 20 or 30 weight oil in warmer climates. I only run VR1 in solid lifter engines as the sheer load on the lifters is a lot higher and the zinc is more benefical. I checked all my owners manuals and they tend to agree on my '56,'63, '78, '79,'82 engines. 20w50 is acceptable if your ambient air temp is above 30*F, 10w30 is good from 0*F up to 80*F which is not good for my engines as its in the 90s or more in summer. So correct thicker oil will flow slower on cold start up but what about when the oil gets hot, is it going to do its job.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 03:25 PM
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I run Chevron 5w-40 delo 400 synthetic. It has the same amount of ZDDP as 15w-40 delo 400 dino oil, and being only 5 weight it makes starting below 20 degrees much easier.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 03:28 PM
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I've been using 5w30 and even at 40 degrees I notice the engine gains oil pressure much faster and the valve clatter is almost non existent on startup compared to 10w30. It was horrible with 15w40.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 06:31 PM
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10W30 Valvoline, with a bottle of STP, which has the ZDDP.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 05:21 AM
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I run Mobil 1 10W-30 in my 351W in my truck along with a bottle of ZDDP with each
oil change.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 06:19 PM
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I run Rotella (usually) because it's on sale this week @ Advance.
5/40 winter, the cheaper T3 15/40 in summer.

But I don't have a Cat to poison or emissions inspections to deal with.
 
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