NP435 Rebuild
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
NP435 Rebuild
I am looking to do a preventive maintenance type of rebuild I my NP435. The only known issue is with the shift lever centering spring. Aside from this, it's out due to an engine overhaul so I thought it to be prudent to replace bearings and gaskets. I want to make it look nice as well.
I have researched kits at bronco graveyard, Novak, and eBay. All seem pretty comprehensive but Novak probably the best in terms of tech support. Any other suggestions for a rebuild kit source?
Also, any tips, tricks or best practices to be aware of? Thanks!
I have researched kits at bronco graveyard, Novak, and eBay. All seem pretty comprehensive but Novak probably the best in terms of tech support. Any other suggestions for a rebuild kit source?
Also, any tips, tricks or best practices to be aware of? Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
I just finished a rebuild on a NP435, I got my rebuild kit from Novak. it comes with excellent instructions. Some things I found:
- My input shaft and input bearing retainer were somewhat scored from years of use. I bought new ones from Bronco Graveyard. If you elect to replace yours, check the oiling hole on the replacement bearing retainer as mine was not nearly as large as my original and I had to open it up with a carbide burr.
- When I went to check my input shaft bearing clearance, which is set by stacking shim gaskets on the bearing retainer, I had quite a bit of gaskets stacked to get it into spec. What I found after taking it back apart was that I didn't have the bearing race pressed down far enough, I was able to press it a smidge down further into the bore which decreased the gasket stack. When you take your's apart, before removing that race measure down the depth of it and set it back to that dimension.
- My input shaft and input bearing retainer were somewhat scored from years of use. I bought new ones from Bronco Graveyard. If you elect to replace yours, check the oiling hole on the replacement bearing retainer as mine was not nearly as large as my original and I had to open it up with a carbide burr.
- When I went to check my input shaft bearing clearance, which is set by stacking shim gaskets on the bearing retainer, I had quite a bit of gaskets stacked to get it into spec. What I found after taking it back apart was that I didn't have the bearing race pressed down far enough, I was able to press it a smidge down further into the bore which decreased the gasket stack. When you take your's apart, before removing that race measure down the depth of it and set it back to that dimension.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
I just finished a rebuild on a NP435, I got my rebuild kit from Novak. it comes with excellent instructions. Some things I found:
- My input shaft and input bearing retainer were somewhat scored from years of use. I bought new ones from Bronco Graveyard. If you elect to replace yours, check the oiling hole on the replacement bearing retainer as mine was not nearly as large as my original and I had to open it up with a carbide burr.
- When I went to check my input shaft bearing clearance, which is set by stacking shim gaskets on the bearing retainer, I had quite a bit of gaskets stacked to get it into spec. What I found after taking it back apart was that I didn't have the bearing race pressed down far enough, I was able to press it a smidge down further into the bore which decreased the gasket stack. When you take your's apart, before removing that race measure down the depth of it and set it back to that dimension.
- My input shaft and input bearing retainer were somewhat scored from years of use. I bought new ones from Bronco Graveyard. If you elect to replace yours, check the oiling hole on the replacement bearing retainer as mine was not nearly as large as my original and I had to open it up with a carbide burr.
- When I went to check my input shaft bearing clearance, which is set by stacking shim gaskets on the bearing retainer, I had quite a bit of gaskets stacked to get it into spec. What I found after taking it back apart was that I didn't have the bearing race pressed down far enough, I was able to press it a smidge down further into the bore which decreased the gasket stack. When you take your's apart, before removing that race measure down the depth of it and set it back to that dimension.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
I used a large 3 jaw puller, OTC 1041 to remove the output shaft bearing. You need like an 11 inch reach to get to that bearing due to the length of the shaft. The shaft won't come out of the case with the bearing attached if I remember correctly. I then used a piece of heavy wall pipe to drive the new bearing on, use WD40 on the journal to help it press on. I checked the synchro clearance with a feeler gauge, you have to look carefully for the synchro shims as the are toothed and blend in with the synchro. You do need a dial indicator to check input bearing end play, and yes a set of race drivers.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
z537z
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
1
Apr 12, 2006 10:14 AM
1991fseries
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
2
Feb 9, 2005 09:44 PM
1991fseries
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
1
Aug 2, 2004 11:59 PM
FordPerf300
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
4
Sep 12, 2002 12:16 PM
FTE Ken
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Dec 21, 1999 10:27 PM
