I just aquired an Np435 and a np205 for nothing. The only thing is i defn. need to rebuild the tranny and maby replace the seals in the xfer case. What is involved in doing this (eg will i need to press bearings on or off the shafts) Can I, with some know-how, (regeared an axle with success) do this job easily with good instructions? thanks.

 

I am not an expert but this has been my experience. I have had my NP 435 apart twice. Once to “repair” a synchronizer and once two years later to put in a rebuild kit and input shaft. I needed a new input shaft because I did not setup the endplay properly the first time (damaged the face of the input shaft that rides on the thrust bearing). Getting good instructions has been hard to find in my town, must be a good Motors manual on this some where. I have an excellent drive train shop in my town; they have given me help removing bearings and races when needed. Their method for removing the race from the input shaft housing was to run a weld bead on the inside surface of the race, when the race cooled down it came out easily. When I put the new race back in I heated the input shaft housing up on an electric stove (not too hot) before installing the seal, this allowed the race to go in with out too much pressure, the cast input housing can be broken if too much pressing force is applied. The output shaft has an external locking ring for retaining the bearing, this can be a bear remove and reinstall without the right tool. I used a dead blow hammer to knock the bearing off, maybe I could have used a little bit of heat on the bearing? The new bearing was tight going on, so once again I heated this up on the stove and using leather gloves dropped it on the shaft, this bearing was hot enough to burn the skin but not the gloves, you want enough heat to change the dimensions of the bearing but not so much as to change the properties of the steel in the bearing. There is an aluminum bearing carrier on the back of the transmission that has a steel needle bearing carrier pressed into it, I could not get this out, the shop removed this for me and said it was more difficult than it usually is for them, I do not know how they removed it. To reinstall I once again heated the carrier on the stove and was able to gently press the new bearing in. Most of the disassembly and reassembly was relatively straightforward, I had a clean workspace several assorted clear Rubber Maid – Tupperware style containers to put the parts in and a camera. I took pictures as it came apart and then laid out the assemblies out in order and took some more pictures, I did not need them but just in case. I purchased a very decent rebuild kit for $165 plus shipping, it had everything I needed including new syncros. The most important part of putting this back together is properly setting up endplay a thread in this forum with the subject "NP435 thrust bearing" from December 2001 covers this somewhat it says “I usually set I/S end-play to approx. .003"-.005" wiggle (up and down).” When I set it up this way my endplay (in and out) was very tight, about .002 according to my dial indicator. My drive train shop said that I should set it up for .010 endplay (in and out) and so I did. The new input shaft seal did not last long and I have replaced it I am not sure if I have too much run out on the Input shaft wiggle (up and down) or if it was the out of balance condition on my motor. I need to check to see if the replacement seal is still holding. Yes I did install a new pilot bearing in the flywheel. I do have some diagrams but I did not get any instructions with the rebuild kit. If any one has some more insight on setting up the NP435 please respond.

Thanks, Wes

 

The Ford manual has the endplay set at .007-.017 inches. It says to adjust the synchro gap first with the shaft clamped in a vise. It is supposed to be .043-? (don't remember this nukmber off hand but it was in the fiftys). Then to install the shaft in the case and set endplay by using a gasket shim pack between the bearing housing and case. A tool is used to hold the output shaft concentric with the clutch bearing housing. Final, recheck the synchro gap it should be .070-?. I was up till 1:00 last night taking apart my transmission so I will check the numbers and post later when I get home.

 

With the output shaft clamped in a vise and the input shaft installed on it, Check the distance between the synchro and input gear. If the distance is more than .043-053 install teh necessary shims between the the third-speed gear and the synchro brake drum.

Install shafts in case.

Using a tool to hole the inout shaft concentric with the retainer measure the clearance between the retainer and case. Install a gasket shim pack .010-.015 thicker than the measured clearance. This will obtain the required input shaft end play of .007-.017.

After torqueing the retainer bolts recheck synchro clearance. It should be .050 - .070. Adjust clearance if required.

Good Luck.