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No special tools are really needed other than basic sockets, wrenches. You have to remove the nut and washer off the back side and force the axle forward or unbolt the radius arm off the axle. You might have to get a coil spring compressor to compress the spring to take it out, so you have more room to move the axle forward or to unbolt the arm. I've seen the mechanics at the dealer I worked at use a long pry bar to pull the arm forward, but they also had the advantage of a lift to work on. You also need to get a front end alignment after you replace the bushings. Very important!
Almost forgot. Support the axle with a floor jack and make sure you have the truck properly supported on jack stands. Don't want to have an accident and drop the truck on you!
If possible (and I don't know that it is), avoid removing the pivot arms (I beams). They can be real buggers to get back in.
You actually don't need a spring compressor. If you remove the retainer straps on the I-beams the entire assembly will drop down and completely release tension on the spring (and it will fall out).
You need one big-**** socket for the nuts though. It's 1 1/8".
Front shocks are easy.
the socket is a 1/2 inch drive deep well. I suggest you consider replacing the I-Beam rubber pivots, King pins and radius arm bushings all at the same time. If the tierod ends are worn (yes they are) replace these as well. Not cheap but you will get another 30 years from it if you do this right. You will need a small floor jack, common tools and that deep well socket and braker bar. You can do this in steps if the budget is limited. Do one side at a time. Raise the truck, support it on a jack stand under the front frame horn, remove the wheel, unbolt the shock, spring retainer strap and lower the axle. The spring can be yanked out to allow you to use that deep well socket and unscrew the radius arm to I Beam bolt. Remove the cotter pin and unscrew the Radius arm pivot nut. Clean, paint and reassemble with plenty of anti-sieze compound. One side at a time is OKAY and you won't need a front alignment at this point. Post back and we'll discuss the next step.
One more question. Will the radius arm from a 66' 250 fit my '65 100? (I think so) Reason? The lower mounting bracket for the right side shock is trash. The holes are oval and large. The radius arm, complete with a good bracket, on my ex-donor truck is still available to me at no cost and the entire arm might be easier to get than just taking off the bracket. If I'm wrong, please correct me!
The spindle is different I think as 250 has 6 or 8 lug and uses different bearings so you'd have to swap spindle and change king pins.
I think it be easy-er to grind off the rivet heads and replace the shock mount.
I was just thinking about using the radius arm and not the twin i-beam exactly for that reason. I have to keep my 5 lug since I have rims for them. The 250 did use 8 lug.
Or would it be easier to take the entire assembly and put the 5 bolt spindle (part name?) on it when the kingpins are changed?
Suggestions? Remember though that this is my daily driver and I can't have it on blocks for a couple of weeks!