Temperature too hot
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
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Temperature too hot
On my 84 300 C5 truck it runs too hot. I have replaced the thermostat with a 160 and still have some odd happenings. This weekend I towed an empty car hauler about 45 miles and no problems. Temp ran betweern "r and m" On the way back, loaded it ran a little warmer, between "m and a". I stopped about 25 miles into the trip for about a 30 minute break but when I got in it to complete the 15-20 miles trip back home it got hot quick. It ran almost to the 'l' before I got back. Not running the air. Doesn't it seem odd that it got hot that quick even after a 30 minute cooling down period?
I have now flushed the coolant and put on a new cap. Results to follow but what do you guys think? What would cause this thing to run hot only after 30-60 miuntes of driving. Never runs hot on 15-30 minute trips. Fan clutch seems firm. Water pump not leaking and I would think it would show signs of problems earlier than an hour of driving.
Help!!!! please!
I have now flushed the coolant and put on a new cap. Results to follow but what do you guys think? What would cause this thing to run hot only after 30-60 miuntes of driving. Never runs hot on 15-30 minute trips. Fan clutch seems firm. Water pump not leaking and I would think it would show signs of problems earlier than an hour of driving.
Help!!!! please!
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 439
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From: Burnsville, MN
Temperature too hot
How is the radiator flow? I'd check for blockage by allowing engine to fully warm up and then feel the radiating surface of the radiator. If you find a cooler spot, that indicates blockage.
The fact that it takes 30 minutes to occur just means that your cooling system capacity is marginal vs. thermal load being requested of it.
The fact that it takes 30 minutes to occur just means that your cooling system capacity is marginal vs. thermal load being requested of it.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2003
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Temperature too hot
I have not touched the timing. Runs and starts really well. I have checked the fan clutch and it seems to be ok. Has resistance when I push on it. Does not wable or spin roughly. The water pump seems fine, no leaks and the radiator is flowing but not real well looks like. I noticed yesterday that it looks pretty cruddy. I am running some flush cleaner thru it now. Never seen a flush that requires 3-6 hours of driving time. Thats like a solid week for me and this truck since it is not my daily driver. After I complete the flush I will test it again. Thinking it will be professional rad shop if this doesnt help.
Keep those ideas coming......
Keep those ideas coming......
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 1
From: Venezuela
Temperature too hot
Usually fan clutch is not as easy to diagnose.
1° early morning, engine at ambient temp. start engine and rev it to 1500 - 1800 rpm, listen fan it should decrease speed in about 2 - 5 minutes. (It indicates clutch disengages)
2° cover radiator using wet paper to increase engine temp, leave a small hole in midle of paper for a light air circulation. watch engine temp gauge all time.
3° Fan speed should increse while engine (Air) temp increase (It indicates cluthc engages)
4° remove paper and let engine cool down, fan speed should be reduced again after some minutes (It indicates clutch is partially engage, wich is the normal state.)
Note: Remember, engine spedd should be constant betwen 1.500 to 1.800 RPM during all test.
Regards;
1° early morning, engine at ambient temp. start engine and rev it to 1500 - 1800 rpm, listen fan it should decrease speed in about 2 - 5 minutes. (It indicates clutch disengages)
2° cover radiator using wet paper to increase engine temp, leave a small hole in midle of paper for a light air circulation. watch engine temp gauge all time.
3° Fan speed should increse while engine (Air) temp increase (It indicates cluthc engages)
4° remove paper and let engine cool down, fan speed should be reduced again after some minutes (It indicates clutch is partially engage, wich is the normal state.)
Note: Remember, engine spedd should be constant betwen 1.500 to 1.800 RPM during all test.
Regards;
Last edited by javi2001; Aug 15, 2003 at 10:20 AM.
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Freshman User
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Temperature too hot
Just completed about 150 miles worth of driving in stop and go and highway conditions. Temp started out around "n" for the first 30 miles and finally peaked between "r" and "m". Hopefully my overheating troubles are over. Not sure if it was the new cap or the flushing of the rad. perhaps a combo of both.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: McChord AFB
Temperature too hot
well if that didnt fix the problem get your radiator rebuilt. I did that about a year ago and it seems like my motor runs too cool now. I pulled an 8500lbs trailer 85 miles at 60-70mph and never even hit 200*
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
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From: Springfield, PA
Temperature too hot
I've been wondering about running hot as well. Before I rebuilt my engine it used to run between the "m" and "a", and now it sits right in the middle, city driving, no loads. I intend to tow with this truck (boat or camper), and I'm wondering if anyone has had any serious concerns with overheating.
I have the standard no a/c (21-5/8" wide, 2 row core) rad in there now, thinking about going to the larger a/c (27-1/2" wide core) rad. Due to the price of a new rad, a local shop has said they could build a 3 row rad the same size as the larger V8 rads for me with my old side headers. My current rad is fairlt recent and in good shape. My engine has only 50 miles on it since I put it back, so maybe as it breaks in the temps will go down.
I have an '84 F150, did Ford ever put real gauges (you know, with numbers) in these trucks? Running "rm" or "ma" degrees isn't very informative. I like my clean dash, so I'm hoping to avoid putting a little gauge somewhere where I can't see it anyway.
I have the standard no a/c (21-5/8" wide, 2 row core) rad in there now, thinking about going to the larger a/c (27-1/2" wide core) rad. Due to the price of a new rad, a local shop has said they could build a 3 row rad the same size as the larger V8 rads for me with my old side headers. My current rad is fairlt recent and in good shape. My engine has only 50 miles on it since I put it back, so maybe as it breaks in the temps will go down.
I have an '84 F150, did Ford ever put real gauges (you know, with numbers) in these trucks? Running "rm" or "ma" degrees isn't very informative. I like my clean dash, so I'm hoping to avoid putting a little gauge somewhere where I can't see it anyway.
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Freshman User
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Temperature too hot
I would give it a few more miles to see how it does...say 500 after a rebuild before I tried a new radiator. Middle of the range doesn't sound bad at all even for towing. Might think about a tranny cooler if you tow often or heavy loads. So far I have put about 500 more miles on mine since the overheating issue and it seems to be ok. I guess a combo of the flush and cap did the trick.
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