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I have a 85 f150 300 with a four speed . the truck like most older vechiles leaks a little a smoke at cold start up. The thing is when the truck idles for 2 to 3 minutes and then you step on the gas a cloud of smoke puffs out. When I bought the truck in 6 months ago and still you can tell that the head was machined or rebuilt because it has shiny clean metal and some gasket brand on the valve cover so i assume that it's good . So could there be oil sliping past the rings or blow back . Without tearing in the motor is there a way to check ?
The Smoke is electric Blue and If Go through town and little highway a quart every 200 Miles if im on the highway little traffic a quart every 500 to 600 miles.
sounds like bad oil rings.. the first place to start is a compression test. look up the procedure in the threads, or in the tech articles.
could also be worn valve guides in the head. maybe they only changed the head gasket in your rig, and the head still has bad valve seals and / or worn guides..
my suggestion: get a haynes manual, tear that engine down and learn all you can while you get ready to put another engine in your rig. thats how i started.
Sounds like you got bad Valve Guides and or stem seals or ( and this is the cheap fix ) clogged oil return holes in the head. Rings don't usually show up idling, however if they are bad enough all bets are off. If it smokes like mad when you first start it, it is the valve guides or seals. If it smokes when you have a high intake manifold vacuum condition it is valves guides or valve stems . If it smokes when you jump on it or accelerate it is rings. Do a compression test and see how the rings are. Do the test twice , the first time just do it as the engine sits warm. Second squirt oil in each cyl and see if the compression jumps up. If it does it's ring time. Best do the rings and valves at the same time or the one you didn't do will give you trouble because the one you did do is putting a strain on the worn parts you didn't do----Got That!!!!!
You mentioned clogged oil return holes in the head and said it was a cheap fix, but you didn't tell what that cheap fix is. I'm interested because I kind of think this is my problem. I have a steady vacuum reading and good compression, but I get oil blown back up the PCV breather tube and into the air filter housing. So, is there a flush or something that will clean the oil return holes so the oil flows down into the crankcase easier? And if so, what product and procedure do you recommend for the job?
The cheap fix is gonna cost you a valve cover gasket, 7 qts of oil and a new filter.
You're gonna need the following:
1.) screwdrivers of various length's and blade sizes.
2.) Bunch of Rags and paper towels.
3.) Wet/Dry Vacuum.
Remove the valve cover and set aside.
Wipe down all the area of loose oil and debris.
Vacuum remainder of loose debris that you can't reach with rags.
Using various size screw drivers, scrape deposits from head surfaces, vacuuming at the same time. Make doubly sure that you get into the drain holes at the corners (deposits may be hard as rock....PATIENCE!).
Flush scraped areas with a quart of oil, ensuring oil flows readily DOWN the drain holes.
Change the oil and filter. Change again after 500 miles using 5 minute flush.
replace valve cover using new gasket.
This should take care of the breather and air filter housings getting oil blown in.
Also while you have the valve cover off, make sure the PCV valve and associated HOSE is OK. The hose will sometimes CLOG and not allow the system to do what it's supposed to. SMALL Screwdriver and the VACUUM comes in handy here too.
Thanks for the advice. I think I can cover the cost of that procedure And since I have a car to commute in, I can take all the time and patience I need. I knew to check the PCV and it's hose and they are clear. I have one more question. What product do you recommend for the 5 minute flush? My father-in-law uses Rislone(?sp) and I've seen some folks on FTE write about using automatic transmission fluid. I know there are other (probably many other) products available. What has worked for you? What should I definitely avoid as harmful to the engine?
Just get the stuff at the auto parts store. Pour into the crankcase and start it up and run 5-10 minutes.
You can also use Rislone.
Stay away from Gas, or Diesel too volatile for crankcase. a pint of Kerosine won't hurt it but no more than a pint. And make sure the engine is COLD when you do this.
I would stay away from an engine flush, especially on high milage engine, Reason---- the hardened goo and even the loose goo forms a seal around worn parts. Wash away the goo and there goes your seal, also all that goo is now in the bottom of your oil pan and will most likely be picked up by the oil pump and clog the intake screen and oil filter. Rislone , marvel Mystery Oil are OK as they are a mild detergent. Stay away from Auto trans fluid, if GOD had intended ATF to be in your engine He would have put it there:-staun Replace the PCV valve while you are at it. Oil in the air cleaner is an indication of excessive blow by .
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