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Sounds like something is back feeding electricity. Engine ground cable to firewall got good connection? Internal short in the 3G? What is the 3G's red/green "I" terminal wire connected to?
I got to go look at a friend's Van oil leak and get some lunch. Keep me posted via text.
This is really weird one...if the condenser is bad the engine would run the same with or without the condenser. It would have a hard time running either way. Have you tried unhooking the new alternator to see if the engine will go back to running fine? I've never seen an alternator cause that kind of problem.
This is really weird one...if the condenser is bad the engine would run the same with or without the condenser.
Not necessarily. And let's assume for the sake of argument here that there's nothing wrong with the alternator itself (he tried a 2nd one).
What else is there? Either the ignition coil or, the condenser, practically has to be at fault here.
It may be the running voltage of 14.X volts with the alternator connected pushes the primary coil ignition voltage and kickback just over and it is shorting out internally. Defective condensers are certainly not rare these days.
Total WAG of course, and prepared to be wrong. Interesting problem.
Turns out my theory was correct. Or at least partly....
The condenser must have been weak, because the higher voltage from the alternator would cause it to start acting up. Then it started doing it even without the alternator.
So, I got a new pertronix unit since my old one got burned out somehow. Put that in and it runs normal.
After 3 weeks and multiple headaches, chasing a compound problem,,,, dare I say,,, I fixed it????
Good. You got it fixed but we are sure curious about what the root cause was.
The ignition path is from the battery to switch to coil to points. The alternator kinda hangs off as an appendage.
A long shot:
The alternator has a bad ground or connection. It keeps throwing out ever higher volts to try to reach 14.3 but much higher voltage is reaching the primary, maybe blowing a condenser or module.
351, just for drill to close out: do a voltage check from the alternator case to the negative battery terminal. The right answer should be zero. Because it runs now doesn't mean you have solved the problem.
I checked all connections and whatnot. Alt is well grounded, no resistance between negative terminal and case, or charge lug and positive.
The root cause, I believe is because I have bypassed the resistance wire for the coil. So I was sending a full 12-13-14 volts through the system. As we all know they are made to run on 7-9 volts, so I knew I was pushing my luck, but it was only a temporary use before I went back to electronic.