Y-pipe to turbo hell
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 61
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From: Trenton, IL
Y-pipe to turbo hell
Going through hell to install a new turbo.
I've been through this before, but just once. Last time I was able to lightly pry up on the turbo - lining it up to the y-pipe then hit the v-clamp (like I had 3 arms) and it was good. Now I have a different turbo and the y-pipe is about 1/8" too far away towards the drivers side headlight. I have no means of pushing it. Hammering it with a pry bar to catch the lip is not working. I have been fighting like crazy to line this up.
I've heard of people loosening the y-pipe bolts at the exhaust manifold to allow wiggle room but those bolts look waaay rusty and I'm scared of cracking them off/stripping the head off. Should I just soak them with wd 40 or ph blaster and pray?
All help is appreciated
-Dick
I've been through this before, but just once. Last time I was able to lightly pry up on the turbo - lining it up to the y-pipe then hit the v-clamp (like I had 3 arms) and it was good. Now I have a different turbo and the y-pipe is about 1/8" too far away towards the drivers side headlight. I have no means of pushing it. Hammering it with a pry bar to catch the lip is not working. I have been fighting like crazy to line this up.
I've heard of people loosening the y-pipe bolts at the exhaust manifold to allow wiggle room but those bolts look waaay rusty and I'm scared of cracking them off/stripping the head off. Should I just soak them with wd 40 or ph blaster and pray?
All help is appreciated
-Dick
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
That's exactly what you should do. I ALWAYS loosen my y-pipe bolts when I'm moving the turbo (don't forget the EGR cooler). It just makes lining everything up SO much easier and you don't chance cracking flex tubes and breaking clamps. BTW--the clamps will not align the y-pipe, they are only for sealing the pipes together.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,073
Likes: 5
From: TX
Is it a stock turbo? what year truck?
I've found that when the turbo is seated properly on the pedestal no grunt work is needed. Now this is on a 2006 so if older not sure. It does take a bit of effort to get it seated properly on the pedestal though.
I've found that when the turbo is seated properly on the pedestal no grunt work is needed. Now this is on a 2006 so if older not sure. It does take a bit of effort to get it seated properly on the pedestal though.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 346
From: Breckenridge, TX
You need four of each of these hardware numbers:
W300013
W300013
Look at pages 7-9 in this .pdf:
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
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From: Virginia Beach VA
they are the same number
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
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I'm always the guy that everybody calls after they've fought for a few hours, then I show up, spend a few minutes and get: "How the heck did you do that?!?!?
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
My biggest problem was convincing myself that I didn't damage the return tube o-ring after setting it down on the pedestal, to the point I actually removed it twice since it didn't "feel right", and the third time actually replaced the o-ring(had a spare for some reason). Must have been a case of temporary OCD.
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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I have had a couple fight me a little, for those I use the ratchet strap method.
I usually make it a habit to loosen the driver side manifold to y-pipe if the pipe doesn't line up by hand otherwise.
Helps if the turbo is seated with the bolts installed, but left loose.
Josh
I usually make it a habit to loosen the driver side manifold to y-pipe if the pipe doesn't line up by hand otherwise.
Helps if the turbo is seated with the bolts installed, but left loose.
Josh
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,123
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You may wind up haveing to use all the mentioned procedures.
Some of the trucks I used to work on I got in the habit of just cutting off the bolts holding the pipes to the manifold and replaceing them with anything that will fit. They are just a long bolt and nut.
Some of the trucks I used to work on I got in the habit of just cutting off the bolts holding the pipes to the manifold and replaceing them with anything that will fit. They are just a long bolt and nut.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,073
Likes: 5
From: TX
The very first time I tried to put it in it took me forever and it still wasn't right. Was told you can't pull it together with the clamp. Used a crow bar to move the turbo around. Heard a clunk and there it was perfect. Been that easy ever since--jiggle,clunk,good to go.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 61
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From: Trenton, IL
Yeah there is a very clearly defined lip on these things that fit together like a puzzle piece. Last time I heard the klunk, but that was my old turbo. Maybe I should split this one in half and use the exhaust side of my old one! the only problem was my unison ring actuator dowel. All else was ok
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 61
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From: Trenton, IL
Well the good news is i've managed to loosen the most accessible bolt on each side. The real question is how the &@%#* do I get to the top bolts without the half moon wrench? I can't even get my hand in them small spaces.