IAC Valve question
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From: Independence
Ok after rerun those vac hose on the left side and got rid of the T it seems to be doing alot better! I did spray throttle body with throttle body cleaner no change in idle, either! Maybe im getting somewhere!! I hope i mean just by rerunning those hoses made a big difference dont know why? Maybe its just me?
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From: Independence
Ok after rerun those vac hose on the left side and got rid of the T it seems to be doing alot better! I did spray throttle body with throttle body cleaner no change in idle, either! Maybe im getting somewhere!! I hope i mean just by rerunning those hoses made a big difference dont know why? Maybe its just me?
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From: Independence
I did drive it to the hardware store was in there about 10 min came back out and started it it did surge a couple of times and quit but didn't die though? Whats got me baffled though is after warm up if i shut it off and about a second after restart it it doesn't do it all ever! Makes no sense at least to me! But if i leave it off for a few it does it! I dont get it? Could i have a faulty air charge temperature sensor? Maybe have never replaced it and there not very expensive.... Like 15 bucks at AutoZone
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From: Kentucky
I did drive it to the hardware store was in there about 10 min came back out and started it it did surge a couple of times and quit but didn't die though? Whats got me baffled though is after warm up if i shut it off and about a second after restart it it doesn't do it all ever! Makes no sense at least to me! But if i leave it off for a few it does it! I dont get it? Could i have a faulty air charge temperature sensor? Maybe have never replaced it and there not very expensive.... Like 15 bucks at AutoZone
Pull the IAC and check it. IIRC it's not original?
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From: Independence
I dont either man but thats about all i can afford thats why i wanted to buy a motorcraft IAC because i know a guy that said he had the same problem with the aftermarket 1 he had i think several of tthem! I think he said... But anyway said he got 1 from ford snd bam! No more problem! Not saying that's what's wrong with mine. But the real boss! That being my old lady, said for me to by the motorcraft 1 thats why I asked about it... Because ive heard others say the aftermarket valves are crap! But like I said my man that may not be whats wrong with mine though. Oh and i don't know how to test the air charge sensor yet?
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From: Independence
Well guys i got up this morning took throttle body off checked the plates seem to be where they were supposed to be! Also checked the tps voltage at closed throttle just for the heck of it. It read 1.036v so thats good at least from what i read? But any way i been driving it around, and restarting it in different scenarios and its been, starting and idling fine, so far!!! Maybe the eec just relearn, the idle and everything!! But all seems to be good!! No more stepping on the gas to keep it running!! Let me know what u think? Thanks again all!!!!!!!!
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From: Kentucky
Well guys i got up this morning took throttle body off checked the plates seem to be where they were supposed to be! Also checked the tps voltage at closed throttle just for the heck of it. It read 1.036v so thats good at least from what i read? But any way i been driving it around, and restarting it in different scenarios and its been, starting and idling fine, so far!!! Maybe the eec just relearn, the idle and everything!! But all seems to be good!! No more stepping on the gas to keep it running!! Let me know what u think? Thanks again all!!!!!!!!
You are right on the edge of triggering a TPS voltage too high code. Could be a bad TPS or someone who replaced the original throttle stop screw was trying to adjust to the mythical 0.99 VDC. The whole subject is an urban myth and been debunked many times.
If it were mine I would start the truck, unplug the IAC then adjust the idle down to ~400-500 RPM if you have a tach or if not, just to the point the engine wants to die. If the idle is already on the edge of dying then you know the TPS is on the hairy edge of triggering a code. Book value is between 0.6 to 0.9 VDC. Anything in that range is good to go. Be aware meter calibration comes into play here as well.
The other theory is drive it. If no codes, call it good
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From: Independence
You are right on the edge of triggering a TPS voltage too high code. Could be a bad TPS or someone who replaced the original throttle stop screw was trying to adjust to the mythical 0.99 VDC. The whole subject is an urban myth and been debunked many times.
If it were mine I would start the truck, unplug the IAC then adjust the idle down to ~400-500 RPM if you have a tach or if not, just to the point the engine wants to die. If the idle is already on the edge of dying then you know the TPS is on the hairy edge of triggering a code. Book value is between 0.6 to 0.9 VDC. Anything in that range is good to go. Be aware meter calibration comes into play here as well.
The other theory is drive it. If no codes, call it good
If it were mine I would start the truck, unplug the IAC then adjust the idle down to ~400-500 RPM if you have a tach or if not, just to the point the engine wants to die. If the idle is already on the edge of dying then you know the TPS is on the hairy edge of triggering a code. Book value is between 0.6 to 0.9 VDC. Anything in that range is good to go. Be aware meter calibration comes into play here as well.
The other theory is drive it. If no codes, call it good
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From: Independence
Oh and i will tell you that my tps is a duracrap tps but anytime the old lady sees any high priced motorcraft part she says you don't need that one! U know what they say HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE!!!!!!! Lol cheers my man
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From: Independence
Hey guys also wanted to ask i know most of you don't like the aftermarket sensors!! But if you had to buy them where would you get them from? Just wanting some input, on this..... Thanks all
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From: Independence
Thanks rla2005