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lost tool in block while changing VCT solinoid

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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 07:26 AM
  #1  
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gtclevel
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From: Panora, Iowa. Out in the
lost tool in block while changing VCT solinoid

I was having a problem with stalling after driving on the highway then coming to a stop. Stuck VCT solenoids seem to cause that issue so I decided to replace them. Got the passenger side done but while doing the drivers side one, my 1/4" extension with taped on T27 torx slipped out of my hand and disappeared into the engine block. The Solenoid was in place so it did not go down that hole. Not sure what the internal engine block looks like or where the possible places to look for the missing tool. Has anyone had this problem before? Where did you find your missing tool and how did you get to it?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 08:38 AM
  #2  
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long handled magnet.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 08:41 AM
  #3  
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Take the valve cover off and start looking there. If it's not there then get an inspection camera and start looking down the inside of the timing cover. That's the only place it can really fall into. If you see it you could try a magnet or one of those long grabby tools and if you are really lucky it could have gone all the way to the oil pan. Then all you would have to do is remove the oil pan and retrieve it. Otherwise you have to remove the timing cover and if you have to go that far, depending on your mileage you might as well change out the chains trnsioners guides ect..
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 09:10 AM
  #4  
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gtclevel
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From: Panora, Iowa. Out in the
Thanks. I bought a inspection camera on amazon. Supposed to get here Wednesday. I'll let you know how lucky I am. I'll try to document this in case it might help others.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 11:39 AM
  #5  
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wrvond
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Removing the oil pan is not easy. Especially on a 4x4.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 12:04 PM
  #6  
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Ooooooooopsie doopsie do! Start taking apart. Or shake it tell u hear it hit pan
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 12:16 PM
  #7  
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From: Panora, Iowa. Out in the
Don't have to shake it. I live in Iowa. I can just tow it over all the pot holes.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 01:13 PM
  #8  
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F150Torqued
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Don't THINK it would ever make it to the pan

All still fresh on my mind, having just completed a full phaser / guide / chain job, I agree with @flyguy108. I suggest planning on removing the valve cover. I'm sorry for your misfortune - but at least the Bank2 valve cover is the easiest one. Here are a series of photos that I took on my job or have reviewed preparing for my phaser job.


I think the odds are small that it would EVER make it to the pan. But in ANY CASE, I would not even try to turn the engine. If it went toward the firewall under the valve cover - it could interfere with cam follower compressing a valve spring and be VERY DISTRUCTIVE. If it went toward the front cover (more likely I think), there is very little space for it to pass the many obsticals. The timing cover has 'ribs' inside for strength and there is only nominal clearance. Pictures are worth a thousand words.
See the photos at:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15544299
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15563131


If it went down the front cover on top of the chain (seems likely), I don't think it can pass between the backside of the phaser and valve body, shown in this photo with phaser removed. The phaser has bolt heads on its backside!



If it wend down the water pump side of the phaser / chain - (I think likely) - I don't think it would make it past the tensioner and tensioner arm. If it's sitting there, any movement of chain could be VERY DISTRUCTIVE. (But the good news, I suspect you could retrieve it from there with the valve cover off - but probably NOT down through the valve cover seal hole.) Here's a photo of that area. you can see my blue paper towel stuffed into the solenoid valve body.





If it got past the tensioner / tensioner arm to the lower side of the chain, it would likely follow the lower chain to the crank gear -- HEAVEN HELP US! I'm not even sure you can get your camera down there with the valve cover off.


see also:
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Page 243 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Page 243 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

or if it by chance made it to the bottom you could wind up with something like this.

The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Page 21 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans


right behind the tone ring you have this. If it ever fell down here I think it would get in front of the crank gear.




and the harmonic balancer / front cover seal runs right against the tone ring. Seems to me the odds it could ever make it to the oil pan is TOO SMALL to even try to turn the engine - even by hand.


Hope these pictures help locate it without having to go the whole route. It was a very big job for me.
 

Last edited by F150Torqued; Feb 22, 2016 at 01:21 PM. Reason: fixed first photo
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 02:02 PM
  #9  
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gtclevel
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From: Panora, Iowa. Out in the
Thanks for the pictures and advice. It was a 6 inch 1/4" socket extension with a t27 socket taped on (so it would not fall into the engine....). Hope the length will keep it from falling too far.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 06:07 PM
  #10  
F150Torqued's Avatar
F150Torqued
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Thank goodness. I had (for some reason) assumed it was only a 1/4 drive Torkx socket that fell off the extension. If the socket and extension stayed together - you may be able to see it with your camera and snag it with a magnet. Maybe the photos will give you a better idea where it "MIGHT" be.

If you have to remove the valve cover - let us know.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2016 | 06:17 PM
  #11  
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Geez.......I hope you get it out!!!!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 07:39 AM
  #12  
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wrvond
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From: West Virginia
Originally Posted by F150Torqued
All still fresh on my mind, having just completed a full phaser / guide / chain job, I agree with @flyguy108. I suggest planning on removing the valve cover. I'm sorry for your misfortune - but at least the Bank2 valve cover is the easiest one. Here are a series of photos that I took on my job or have reviewed preparing for my phaser job.


I think the odds are small that it would EVER make it to the pan. But in ANY CASE, I would not even try to turn the engine. If it went toward the firewall under the valve cover - it could interfere with cam follower compressing a valve spring and be VERY DISTRUCTIVE. If it went toward the front cover (more likely I think), there is very little space for it to pass the many obsticals. The timing cover has 'ribs' inside for strength and there is only nominal clearance. Pictures are worth a thousand words.
See the photos at:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15544299
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15563131


If it went down the front cover on top of the chain (seems likely), I don't think it can pass between the backside of the phaser and valve body, shown in this photo with phaser removed. The phaser has bolt heads on its backside!



If it wend down the water pump side of the phaser / chain - (I think likely) - I don't think it would make it past the tensioner and tensioner arm. If it's sitting there, any movement of chain could be VERY DISTRUCTIVE. (But the good news, I suspect you could retrieve it from there with the valve cover off - but probably NOT down through the valve cover seal hole.) Here's a photo of that area. you can see my blue paper towel stuffed into the solenoid valve body.





If it got past the tensioner / tensioner arm to the lower side of the chain, it would likely follow the lower chain to the crank gear -- HEAVEN HELP US! I'm not even sure you can get your camera down there with the valve cover off.


see also:
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Page 243 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Page 243 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

or if it by chance made it to the bottom you could wind up with something like this.

The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Page 21 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans


right behind the tone ring you have this. If it ever fell down here I think it would get in front of the crank gear.




and the harmonic balancer / front cover seal runs right against the tone ring. Seems to me the odds it could ever make it to the oil pan is TOO SMALL to even try to turn the engine - even by hand.


Hope these pictures help locate it without having to go the whole route. It was a very big job for me.

Cast iron tensioners, Melling oil pump - well done!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 06:39 PM
  #13  
gtclevel's Avatar
gtclevel
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From: Panora, Iowa. Out in the
Found lost tool and now it is ready for the test drives.

I had my truck towed to my mechanic ($90.95) and he extracted the tool and installed the solenoid for $50. Could have been much worse. I will drive it for a while and see if the stalling at stop signs happens after driving on the highway. Appreciate the hep and advice. Hope to help someone else someday.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2016 | 07:57 AM
  #14  
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gtclevel
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From: Panora, Iowa. Out in the
rough idle and stalling after highway driving appears fixed.

The new VCT solenoids seem to have done the trick. I still have a loud ticking noise. I was looking at the VCT lockout kits from Livornois. Seems like a lot of money for a quiet engine. Does anyone know what the difference is between the lockout kit and just unplugging the VCT solenoids? Seems both methods disable VCT.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 04:11 PM
  #15  
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flyguy108
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From: Lombard Il.
Unplugging the vct will throw a code. The Livernois kit puts a wedge in the phaser not allowing it to actuate and retard or advance the timing. It also has a programmer to put new software in your pcm so it won't throw the codes, that's why it costs so much. The ticking could be a phaser or fuel injectors or a lash adjuster or a combination of the above. Track down the ticking noise before you start throwing money at. Once you have pinpointed the ticking noise then we can help you find the best and cheapest way to repair it.
 
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