Distributor Upgrade, Choices Choices Choices???
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 296
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From: Illinois
Distributor Upgrade, Choices Choices Choices???
This is for my 1968 F100 240 6. I rebuilt the Holley 1940 carburetor and now I want to move on to the distributor but I’m not sure which way to go.
Option 1. LMC has a remanufactured unit for $99 and then I can drop in a Pertronics ignition for $98 and new coil for $44, plus shipping I’m probably looking at $275. Pros/Cons?
Option 2. Summit Racing and Performance Distributors have a Ford Duraspark for $265 + $40 for a module and another $45 for a coil so this would be around $350.. Pros/Cons?
Option 3. Is the DUI from Summit Racing. It has the coil in the distributor and runs $369. Does this need a module?? Pros/Cons?
Option 4. Is a GM HEI which I’m still trying to figure out how it works and what else I need and how much it would cost all together. It looks like you use it with a stock distributor and coil but I’m not sure. Pros/Cons?
I look forward to any advice offered. Again, this is going on a 1968 F100 240 6 with a Holley 1 barrel model 1940 carb.
Thanks,
Option 1. LMC has a remanufactured unit for $99 and then I can drop in a Pertronics ignition for $98 and new coil for $44, plus shipping I’m probably looking at $275. Pros/Cons?
Option 2. Summit Racing and Performance Distributors have a Ford Duraspark for $265 + $40 for a module and another $45 for a coil so this would be around $350.. Pros/Cons?
Option 3. Is the DUI from Summit Racing. It has the coil in the distributor and runs $369. Does this need a module?? Pros/Cons?
Option 4. Is a GM HEI which I’m still trying to figure out how it works and what else I need and how much it would cost all together. It looks like you use it with a stock distributor and coil but I’m not sure. Pros/Cons?
I look forward to any advice offered. Again, this is going on a 1968 F100 240 6 with a Holley 1 barrel model 1940 carb.
Thanks,
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,678
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Option 1, but from your local parts store, not LMC.
Pros? Half the price of LMC, Local warranty, simple, reliable, uses stock parts, good performance. Cons? None I can think of. Maybe not as good for high performance but a 240 isn't a high performance engine anyway.
Pros? Half the price of LMC, Local warranty, simple, reliable, uses stock parts, good performance. Cons? None I can think of. Maybe not as good for high performance but a 240 isn't a high performance engine anyway.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
Why not just put a Pertronix in your original distributor? Are the bushings that bad(shaft wobbles)? If the shaft is still "tight", then just buy the Pertronix and bolt it in. No other work needed.
As for the DUI/HEI stuff, I would not put a GM style distributor in it. Sorry, just my opinion. I don't care for that shoe box sized cap no matter who says it is the best thing since sliced bread. Most don't require any other "Box" to run. Just plug 12v into the cap and it works. Everything is internal(module, coil).
I see they offer a duraspark(pricey), that just takes the duraspark box (which is pretty cheap to buy, like $30). That too just needs 12v to the box to run. You just need to make a harness to plug the box into the distributor. I just made one for my '89 F150 I converted from fuel injection to carb. You can buy the harness premade, for $140. A buddy had harness from 80's mustang and I cut the ends and made my own.
If you are working on a tight budget I would work towards just putting something in your original distributor. I agree, keep it something you can get locally. That way if you have issues it is easier to fix.
As for the DUI/HEI stuff, I would not put a GM style distributor in it. Sorry, just my opinion. I don't care for that shoe box sized cap no matter who says it is the best thing since sliced bread. Most don't require any other "Box" to run. Just plug 12v into the cap and it works. Everything is internal(module, coil).
I see they offer a duraspark(pricey), that just takes the duraspark box (which is pretty cheap to buy, like $30). That too just needs 12v to the box to run. You just need to make a harness to plug the box into the distributor. I just made one for my '89 F150 I converted from fuel injection to carb. You can buy the harness premade, for $140. A buddy had harness from 80's mustang and I cut the ends and made my own.
If you are working on a tight budget I would work towards just putting something in your original distributor. I agree, keep it something you can get locally. That way if you have issues it is easier to fix.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 296
Likes: 23
From: Illinois
Option 1, but from your local parts store, not LMC.
Pros? Half the price of LMC, Local warranty, simple, reliable, uses stock parts, good performance. Cons? None I can think of. Maybe not as good for high performance but a 240 isn't a high performance engine anyway.
Pros? Half the price of LMC, Local warranty, simple, reliable, uses stock parts, good performance. Cons? None I can think of. Maybe not as good for high performance but a 240 isn't a high performance engine anyway.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 296
Likes: 23
From: Illinois
I'm not sure if the bushings are bad, I just figured it would be good to replace the distributor since the truck is 47 years old. Can you explain how to check if the "shaft wobbles"? Do you loosen distributor clamp first, or just try to move it from side to side? Thanks,
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
It's not just the bushings that wear (and doesn't take that much) causing trouble with points. The Pertronix is not much affected by this at all, true enough. One reason they are so popular. The electronic modules can't compensate if the advance plate gets wallered out and sticky, or erratic. I suppose disassembly and cleaning and relubing would help some if not worn too bad. Another common problem is the vacuum advance diaphragm goes bad. Same deal, These can be replaced, too.
But distributor replacement with a quality rebuild is the best plan. Distributors are an often neglected part of tuning for performance and economy. Just drop a Pertronix module in a rebuild. Replace wires, cap, plugs, rotor and install a Flamethrower coil. Bypass the resistor/ballast wire and feed 12 volts constant.
You'll be amazed at quick starts and how much smoother it runs at idle, and up and down the RPM range.
But distributor replacement with a quality rebuild is the best plan. Distributors are an often neglected part of tuning for performance and economy. Just drop a Pertronix module in a rebuild. Replace wires, cap, plugs, rotor and install a Flamethrower coil. Bypass the resistor/ballast wire and feed 12 volts constant.
You'll be amazed at quick starts and how much smoother it runs at idle, and up and down the RPM range.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 296
Likes: 23
From: Illinois
It's not just the bushing wear (and doesn't take that much) causing trouble with points. The Pertronix is not much affected by this at all. One reason they are so popular. They can't compensate if the advance plate gets wallered out and sticky or erratic. I suppose disassembly and cleaning and relubing would help some if not worn too bad. Another common problem is the vacuum advance diaphragm goes bad. Same deal, These can be replaced, too. But distributor replacement with a quality rebuild is the best plan. Distributors are often neglected part of tuning for performance and economy.
Just drop a Pertronix module in a rebuild. Replace wires, cap, plugs, rotor and install a Flamethrower coil. Bypass the resistor/ballast wire and feed 12 volts constant. You'll be amazed at quick starts and how much smoother it runs at idle and up and down the RPM range.
Just drop a Pertronix module in a rebuild. Replace wires, cap, plugs, rotor and install a Flamethrower coil. Bypass the resistor/ballast wire and feed 12 volts constant. You'll be amazed at quick starts and how much smoother it runs at idle and up and down the RPM range.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I dunno, the "selection" might be limited. Lots of rebuilds these days are real problems - starters and alternators for example. So it CAN be a real crapshoot. I've heard some bad things about Cardone distributor rebuilds for example.
The Cardone Y block dizzy I bought though from an eBay vendor has worked real well. It was even curved for performance. This brings me to my next suggestion. While your particular motor might not be a drag motor, a little "tweaking" in the advance weights and springs, vacuum advance can also make a HUGE difference in driveability and economy. You could send your current distributor off to a trusted rebuilder if time is not a huge factor. Faron Rhoads is in PA, iirc. He can hook you up with rebuilding and recurving the distributor you have right now.
Remember the distributor is the "brains" of the motor. You can learn to do this yourself, but it's tedious without a Sun distributor machine. Look him up, I'm sure you can google his phone #. Seems like a great guy.
The Cardone Y block dizzy I bought though from an eBay vendor has worked real well. It was even curved for performance. This brings me to my next suggestion. While your particular motor might not be a drag motor, a little "tweaking" in the advance weights and springs, vacuum advance can also make a HUGE difference in driveability and economy. You could send your current distributor off to a trusted rebuilder if time is not a huge factor. Faron Rhoads is in PA, iirc. He can hook you up with rebuilding and recurving the distributor you have right now.
Remember the distributor is the "brains" of the motor. You can learn to do this yourself, but it's tedious without a Sun distributor machine. Look him up, I'm sure you can google his phone #. Seems like a great guy.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I spent a lot (for me anyway) having the 292 Y block totally rebuilt 20 years ago. But I balked at the end and cheaped out reusing a junkbox carburetor and distributor. This was a big mistake. Eventually I got wise and installed a new distributor, and that alone made it run like a new motor. Assuming the rest of your Six is in good shape you will see good results as well.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 296
Likes: 23
From: Illinois
I spent a lot (for me anyway) having the 292 totally rebuilt 20 years ago. But I balked at the end and cheaped out at the end and reused a junkbox carburetor and distributor. This was a big mistake. Eventually I got wise and installed a new distributor, and that alone made it run like a new motor. Assuming the rest of your motor is in good shape you will see good results as well.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,678
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Originally Posted by Doubleclutch
AutoZone has a Cardone Reman distributor for a 240 six for $42.99. Seems rather cheap though.
Oreillys is the same price, and comes with a LT warranty. Even if it does go bad, the replacement is free...
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
A new remanufactured one will undoubtedly be a big improvement on an old, clapped out unit. But what if some critical dimension is way off? Or the wrong helical gear material is installed and it starts eating the camshaft? I dunno. "Ya get what ya pay for".
I found this searching around:
"A complete Rebuild /refurbish is still 89.95 , but will now offer a JUST a Recurve for 39.95 , both are Plus return shipping and Insurance , Ive had many people want just that if its a brand New Unit, never run "( Remans )"( Parts House Units ) still will need a complete go through ( as they are usually the worst for Gear Depth ), I will charge on a as needed basis , no bull policy shipping address is Faron Rhoads 213 East Market P.O. Box 12 Freeburg Pa 17827 Call 570-847-6282 leave message"
I found this searching around:
"A complete Rebuild /refurbish is still 89.95 , but will now offer a JUST a Recurve for 39.95 , both are Plus return shipping and Insurance , Ive had many people want just that if its a brand New Unit, never run "( Remans )"( Parts House Units ) still will need a complete go through ( as they are usually the worst for Gear Depth ), I will charge on a as needed basis , no bull policy shipping address is Faron Rhoads 213 East Market P.O. Box 12 Freeburg Pa 17827 Call 570-847-6282 leave message"