replacing vacuum lines
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 505
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From: Independence
Here's what i was told on another F150 frorum when i first bought my truck:
"Replace the small diameter vacuum lines right away, it will save you some headaches down the road. The OEM plastic lines just get super brittle over time and can crack just by looking at them cross-eyed. I ordered 22ft of 4mm line from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361. It's super thick walled high quality silicone that will last forever. It's $0.99/ft, which is about double what regular rubber lines cost at the auto parts store but this is a one and done replacement that you won't ever have to touch again and will probably outlast your truck. You will also need a 4-way vacuum tee (or two 3-way tees) available at any auto/hardware store for a couple of bucks."
"Replace the small diameter vacuum lines right away, it will save you some headaches down the road. The OEM plastic lines just get super brittle over time and can crack just by looking at them cross-eyed. I ordered 22ft of 4mm line from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361. It's super thick walled high quality silicone that will last forever. It's $0.99/ft, which is about double what regular rubber lines cost at the auto parts store but this is a one and done replacement that you won't ever have to touch again and will probably outlast your truck. You will also need a 4-way vacuum tee (or two 3-way tees) available at any auto/hardware store for a couple of bucks."
Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Thanks for the man for the input and the link simon that was my intention was to replace the small plastic ones. Ive had this truck for about 5 years it has a rough idle always has. But it runs good when driving. Instead of trying to find a vacuum leak since there old anyways might as well replace them since there original, ones right lol! Thanks again
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 505
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From: Independence
Yeah i here silicone is a touch better than the rubber hose! Like i said i dont wanna buy 50' of hose to leave lying around that i dont need a little is ok but if i had to i would because buying 50' under 20 bucks is better than buying less for over 30! Lol
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 286
Likes: 1
From: NoVa
Great advice above. I replaced all the rubber lines last summer when I was diagnosing an EGR problem. Will probably do the plastic parts down the road. Fixing this simple stuff can avoid major problems and wasted time.
Senior User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 466
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, TX
Here's what i was told on another F150 frorum when i first bought my truck:
"Replace the small diameter vacuum lines right away, it will save you some headaches down the road. The OEM plastic lines just get super brittle over time and can crack just by looking at them cross-eyed. I ordered 22ft of 4mm line from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361. It's super thick walled high quality silicone that will last forever. It's $0.99/ft, which is about double what regular rubber lines cost at the auto parts store but this is a one and done replacement that you won't ever have to touch again and will probably outlast your truck. You will also need a 4-way vacuum tee (or two 3-way tees) available at any auto/hardware store for a couple of bucks."
"Replace the small diameter vacuum lines right away, it will save you some headaches down the road. The OEM plastic lines just get super brittle over time and can crack just by looking at them cross-eyed. I ordered 22ft of 4mm line from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361. It's super thick walled high quality silicone that will last forever. It's $0.99/ft, which is about double what regular rubber lines cost at the auto parts store but this is a one and done replacement that you won't ever have to touch again and will probably outlast your truck. You will also need a 4-way vacuum tee (or two 3-way tees) available at any auto/hardware store for a couple of bucks."
I believe I used the 8mm silicone hose for most everything except the brake booster vacuum hose. Don't quote me on it though.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 505
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From: Independence
One other thing guys, of course i always feel stupid asking these questions i feel like i dont know anything!! I just no more about carbed engines than fuel injected. But any way a couple of you said something about getting some t's and elbow fittings but im not seeing where i might need them. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated! Man i wished i had a damn diagram!! Also the two black plastic lines that look like they go into the passenger side firewall neer the blower motor how do you get to those? And are they for the heater? Thanks again 4 the input
Senior User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 466
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, TX
Here are the tees I bought and used on both the trucks I have swapped vacuum lines on so far.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Independence
Here are the tees I bought and used on both the trucks I have swapped vacuum lines on so far.
Amazon.com: Dorman 493-009 Vacuum Tee - Pack of 10: Automotive
Amazon.com: Dorman 493-009 Vacuum Tee - Pack of 10: Automotive
Senior User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 466
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, TX
I think I only needed 1 or 2 for each one. One was by the tin can and one where the vacuum lines connect to the fire wall near the map sensor. Keep in mind I only own the last gen trucks in a 94 f350, 93 bronco, and a recently acquired 96 f150 4x4 (future project) so I might not be best to ask since we have different gen trucks as you are asking for a 91 right?
Here is the guide I had followed initially. Its a long fun read but basically just replace one at a time and you will be fine... Rubber Vacuum System Replacement (5.0\5.8 EFI) - Ford Truck Club Forum
I would suggest as all others have and which is what I did and replace 1 line at a time. When you pull all the old plastic ones out be sure to get a pic flicking off the pile of junk you yank out and post!
Here is the guide I had followed initially. Its a long fun read but basically just replace one at a time and you will be fine... Rubber Vacuum System Replacement (5.0\5.8 EFI) - Ford Truck Club Forum
I would suggest as all others have and which is what I did and replace 1 line at a time. When you pull all the old plastic ones out be sure to get a pic flicking off the pile of junk you yank out and post!
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
From: Independence
I think I only needed 1 or 2 for each one. One was by the tin can and one where the vacuum lines connect to the fire wall near the map sensor. Keep in mind I only own that last gen trucks in a 94 f350, 93 bronco, and a recently acquired 96 f150 4x4 (future project) so I might not be best to ask since we have different gen trucks as you are asking for a 91 right?
Here is the guide I had followed initially. Its a long fun read but basically just replace one at a time and you will be fine... Rubber Vacuum System Replacement (5.0\5.8 EFI) - Ford Truck Club Forum
I would suggest as all others have and which is what I did and replace 1 line at a time. When you pull all the old plastic ones out be sure to get a pic flicking off the pile of junk you yank out and post!
Here is the guide I had followed initially. Its a long fun read but basically just replace one at a time and you will be fine... Rubber Vacuum System Replacement (5.0\5.8 EFI) - Ford Truck Club Forum
I would suggest as all others have and which is what I did and replace 1 line at a time. When you pull all the old plastic ones out be sure to get a pic flicking off the pile of junk you yank out and post!
Senior User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 466
Likes: 2
From: Dallas, TX
yes now that you mention it I think I left the check valve in place (the one near the map sensor) on both trucks as I had realized it was not a regular T. So I may have only used one tee on each truck on second thought.
And that is exactly the procedure I did. Remove one at a time completely and just shoved the hose rather it was rubber or silicone right onto the connection. No need to sleeve the old ends or anything the right size hose will slip on with some force.
Both my trucks I have done this to so far had slight vacuum leaks so this has made them both run better and is a simple, cheap, and not a huge time consuming upgrade/repair to make.
And that is exactly the procedure I did. Remove one at a time completely and just shoved the hose rather it was rubber or silicone right onto the connection. No need to sleeve the old ends or anything the right size hose will slip on with some force.
Both my trucks I have done this to so far had slight vacuum leaks so this has made them both run better and is a simple, cheap, and not a huge time consuming upgrade/repair to make.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
From: Independence
yes now that you mention it I think I left the check valve in place (the one near the map sensor) on both trucks as I had realized it was not a regular T. So I may have only used one tee on each truck on second thought.
And that is exactly the procedure I did. Remove one at a time completely and just shoved the hose rather it was rubber or silicone right onto the connection. No need to sleeve the old ends or anything the right size hose will slip on with some force.
Both my trucks I have done this to so far had slight vacuum leaks so this has made them both run better and is a simple, cheap, and not a huge time consuming upgrade/repair to make.
And that is exactly the procedure I did. Remove one at a time completely and just shoved the hose rather it was rubber or silicone right onto the connection. No need to sleeve the old ends or anything the right size hose will slip on with some force.
Both my trucks I have done this to so far had slight vacuum leaks so this has made them both run better and is a simple, cheap, and not a huge time consuming upgrade/repair to make.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
From: Independence
thanks again man i didnt think it would be hard to do maybe when I do this as im replacing the lines if i come to a tee or what ever maybe i can just purchase them as i get to 'em and just get it at the parts store, im sure i can do it no problem. But all input helps for sure, doesn't hurt to ask u know? Im not even really sure i have a leak? But i figured if I spend around 20-40 bucks no biggie and would beat spending half the day with carb cleaner, trying to find 1 or 2 leaks, espicially when those plastic lines are original any way and another could break or crack anytime! Thanks again!