Have a 20X20 corrugated metal shop and find that during the winter months the condensation if heavy and not a pleasant shop to work in. It's on a cement floor, roll-up type door, and had the longer post installed to increase the ceiling height. I use a 125k kerosene forced air heater, which takes about an hour, or so, to remove majority of the moisture. I am more concerned about the items; tools, power equipment; etc. stored in the metal structure. Not sure if there's an insulation solution; if so. probly labor intensive? Curious if other member's had similar issues and can offer any suggestions.

 

Several in the NY area used spray on foam. Theory is, no air space no condensation.
Keep in mind it is always a good idea to check with local codes. And, if doing any cutting or welding, you might want to/should/must add some fireproofing material on the lower section.

 

i agree on the closed cell spray on foam.

 

My .02 here
You are getting some condensation from your heater, on any fuel burning un vented heater
one of the products of combustion is water vapor. When you leave and shut down it condenses on the walls, so spray foam will help, but it will then condense on any cold surface.
Putting in a vented heater will help a lot.

 

Came across a website that offers corrugated sheets of foam closures that come in a variety of shapes and sizes. As soon as time permits intend taking measurements and the dimensions to determine the number of sheets required then prepare myself for sticker shock when I submit a price quote. Appears the sheets come in a variety of types of material, shapes, sizes, and a vary in R-rating??? Item descriptions offers a box of 100 count sheets of material at 3' x ??, appears it could turn out to be a heck of a lot of boxes??? Likely call them 1st to determine if they ship, and inform what I would like to do and advise on the least expensive means of doing it?

I do need to purchase an alternative source of heat, I find the kerosene forced air heater can be a bit toxic, even thought the shop is not sealed I open the bottom section of the door, about 8", and direct the heater exhaust out the opening.

Depending upon cost, and whether or not too labor intensive I would be stoked if able to gain 4-5 months use, not to mention relatively dry storage structure to store equipment and tools.

Appreciated U'all input, trying to brain storm with little to work; having said that posting link to foam site, food for though greatly appreciated!!

Foam Closure Strip For R Panel In Stock.

 

You need to get rid of the moisture. That's why house attics are vented. Of course the insulation will help a lot to eliminate the cold metal walls but you should also consider a small exhaust fan at the top of the structure.
I have an aluminum storage shed that would drip water from the ceiling panels in cool damp weather. I installed a solar powered exhaust fan in the roof and the problem is gone.

 

This is great, exactly the conditions I am facing. I will need to design a bracket to support the fan and exhaust system, it's only a matter of getting my head around cutting into the existing metal structure. Greatly appreciate the suggestion!!.

 

I have a 24x24 wood garage...


I have 2 standard roof vents... No fan. I leave the vents open all year (Ohio).


and I have a 175,000 btu kerosene torpedo heater..


I do heat for 3 to 4 hours.. no water.

 

Regret I did not go with a wood structure as opposed to the metal, the cost was a major factor. Seems that if I can exhaust the humidity-damp air, then I may be able to minimize the level of condensation. WIth the cool mornings I intend using the force air heater, at least for now.

Looked at a couple options, regardless of which I decide, I will need to fabricate a bracket to support the fan. The inside of the metal structure is supported by 3"x3" metal post running from the floor sill to the metal roof rafters. Seems I should be able to use the center beam, running from the floor sill to the center of the gable rafter, then decide how best to refabricate a bracket to support the fan; seems running an adjoining 12' x3" x3" beam may best the better alternative??

Looking at a couple of exhaust fans, incline to go with the basic configuration as possible. The fan in the 1st link operates automatically with adjustable thermostat built-in with a thermally protected lubricated motor. I have issues with motors that either runs or shut down using a sensing devises; whereas, seems to me if kept simple and I run the circuit that operates off a switch then I have the option of turning the fan off or on??

Posting couple pic's of exhaust fans I am looking at, if anyone has a comment, pro or conk, I would appreciate input or suggestions!!

1st: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1000_.jpg

2nd: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41BSK22567L.jpg

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rage-shop.html
What Bill did. But , you would lose floor space.
RE: fans If you think you might be doing any painting in the garage, you might want to get an exhaust fan with an "explosion-proof" motor.

 

You really don't want a fan controlled by a thermostat. You need it to run on cool or cold days with high humidity not for temperature control. And yes, I know they make humidity sensors. The ones you can afford rarely work well.

 

I have to laugh, when I read the item description concerning the exhaust fan with the thermostat control unit, the first thing that came to mind is on a cold winter morning, when a family member is comfortably soaking in the bathtub, the bathroom ceiling heater, which I assume must have a humidity sensor, because the heater cycles from nice warm heat, to cold air, that's when there's some cursing involved.

Yes, decided to run the circuit thru an off/on switch. Appreciated the suggestion, thank you!!.

 

Those are nothing at all close to what you want. They are used at the ends of metal roofs to fill in the space between the metal panel and the wood roof deck. They are just thin strips like shown in the picture and primarily are there to stop insects/etc from nesting in the roof.

There is fire rated spray foam. However, it would still be wise to have it covered. Another idea is foil bubble insulation. Usually its installed while the structure is being built and sandwiched between the framing and the metal panels. But I'm sure you can find a way to install it with what you have. There are a couple of different options, here's a start:
Reflective Bubble Reflective Insulation : Foil Bubble Foil Insulation

 

Thank you, definitely appears a lot less expensive then the other approach and I was not sure how I was going to install it, the 'bubble foil insulation' does not appear that difficult to install. Probably check for any improvement once the fan and insulation is install; then determine whether or not to finish it off with an inexpensive covering??

Again, appreciate the suggestion and link; beginning to get excited about taking on the project.