When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After driving around I found that battery light was on, and then it eventually went to flickering and coming on and off. So after many moments of looking around the engine bay, I found the alternator positive terminal post was loose on the cable connection. Tightened it up and it went away.
But now when I go to start it sometimes the battery light comes on for a split second and then goes away after start up, not coming on again after start up
Check all the battery connections and ground to frame, clean and dielectric grease too. Also, voltage cold soak, voltage cranking, voltage running after GPs off? Looking for condition of batteries and alternator function. Might need to load test both batteries and test alternator.
Fords spec is somewhere in the low 9s cranking before it hurts the FICM. Not sure when the battery light comes on when running, but there is always a sensor to go bad. scangauge numbers are good
The terminal connection, was that for all connections to the batteries or just one of two or three?
My concern with an alternator intermittent connection is there was damage done to the control electronics within the alternator. Batteries would be fine, just possibly low in storage if the alternator is not charging at the full amps as it did new.
The terminal connection, was that for all connections to the batteries or just one of two or three?
My concern with an alternator intermittent connection is there was damage done to the control electronics within the alternator. Batteries would be fine, just possibly low in storage if the alternator is not charging at the full amps as it did new.
That connection that was loose was just for the one, at the alternator post.
Originally Posted by WatsonR
FICM spec is <9.5v. Battery light is 9.2v IIRC.
Clean all the grounds, frame, body, block.
I will be performing this task soon, just as a good measure.
Originally Posted by Jmoen7
Fords spec is somewhere in the low 9s cranking before it hurts the FICM. Not sure when the battery light comes on when running, but there is always a sensor to go bad. scangauge numbers are good
The Batt light is only coming on now (sometimes) during the time I turn the key over, and then immediately goes away after started. Doesn't show up when driving now, since I tightened that loose connection.
One last thing, I was messing around with the fuel pressure testing port, and I drained the fuel a couple of times in the process. Then I did the procedure of "key on, engine off" to get the bowl filled back up. I did this full procedure twice. I know that this is hard on those batteries, as they are also giving juice to everything and the glowplugs.
So I will be putting the batteries on a charge, here soon. Maybe I drained them a little in that process.
I'd recommend pulling the alternator and having it bench tested just for the peace of mind at this point. As Jack rightfully indicated, having loose connections wrecks havoc on stuff.
I'd recommend pulling the alternator and having it bench tested just for the peace of mind at this point. As Jack rightfully indicated, having loose connections wrecks havoc on stuff.
Thank you Jack and Ed for the help. I will get that done.
The terminal connection, was that for all connections to the batteries or just one of two or three?
My concern with an alternator intermittent connection is there was damage done to the control electronics within the alternator. Batteries would be fine, just possibly low in storage if the alternator is not charging at the full amps as it did new.
To add to this, I've seen alternators bench test good when cold and bad when hot. Diodes can be self healing based on temp.
It doesn't work correctly when it's at an elevated temperature. At normal room temp it's fine, under the hot hood it doesn't. Or the other way around too, just to make it more confusing.
It doesn't work correctly when it's at an elevated temperature. At normal room temp it's fine, under the hot hood it doesn't. Or the other way around too, just to make it more confusing.
Diodes used for rectification are one of the few electronic components that can be what's referred to as self healing. Can create major problems when trouble shooting.