Oh my, what the !!!!!!

This sucks. So even if I go get the alternator benched tested it could still be bad?!?!?!?!

Wow..... I might as well just buy another alternator just cause.

Well on a good note, or so I hope. The batt light doesn't come on anymore. Batt volts still at 10.6v or higher when cranking. 13.8 to 14.2 when driving.

 

This doesn't happen THAT often (that a bench test shows good when the unit is bad), but we've certainly seen it more than a handful of times in helping people with their FICM issues. 120k-160k seems to be the sweet spot for alternator failure on these trucks. Many, following a string of heavy sighing, just end up ordering a fresh alternator with their FICM rebuild.

What we always try to relay is that as we don't need their core back and if their existing unit does indeed test out okay, that they should consider moving their high output replacement onto the next truck when that time comes (just re-installing their OE unit at time of sale).

Essentially, DC Power will re-case their products to fit the next motor for between $125 and $150 and will even refresh the internals for just the wholesale cost of the parts with no labor upcharge while they have them. It's a pretty sweet deal and at least some modicum of silver lining in the whole deal.

 

I need to do this as well. Is access to these connections straight forward or does anything need to be removed to get to them? Seems like anything I work on with the 6.0 is always a cramped undertaking. OK, I admit changing the oil filter is a breeze but few other tasks are.

 

In my order of concern excluding the common battery terminals.

Ground - Motor connection from passenger battery at lower pass side of motor.
Ground - Frame to pass battery (close to above point and part of cable).
Ground - Drivers battery to frame under air filter. (Install additional cable between this point and drivers head).
Ground - Body attachment above drivers headlight.
Ground - Body attachment drivers firewall.
Ground - Body attachment passenger firewall above heater.
Ground - Body attachment passenger cable pigtail by battery.
Ground - Frame rail to body under passenger footwell.

At the drivers frame rail you need to pull the air filter, battery, battery tray, and for some the CAC tube.
At the passenger frame rail I think I only pulled the CAC tube. The motor connection I reached from below. Check the "batteries" thread.

 

Been driving around town. From start up the alternator wouldn't put out more than 12.2 . I have to step on the gas pedal and to get the rpms up to get the alternator to charge correctly. Once I do that then it stays in the higher voltage range.

I shouldn't have to do that though. I have a feeling it the voltage regulator that went on this alternator.

 

You might be good with those self healin' parts. Me, I'd be in a cold dark place away from home with a red glow from my dash with my luck.

Ed is right otherwise they wouldn't bother testing at the stores. But there are posts here with people who had failed units tested good, found with a search.

 

I don't want to trust my truck to a crummy alternator. Which I have a feeling is what I got anyways. From the get go I was getting voltage spikes up to 15 plus volts. Installed an additional ground wire, and if settled down.

Which makes me think I do have a grounding issue elsewhere.

As for this post last night, I pulled the alt, and will get in it tested this afternoon, but I still should not have to make the RPM's get up to make the alternator charge properly.


Thank you for this info Jack, as this will be my check list for the weekend.

 

So you used a 24" 1/0 cable from Napa. And in your youtube video you stated an M10-1.5 bolt is needed to bolt up to the block ... what bolt length?

TMT Powerstroke 6.0L Maintenance Series - Drivers Ground Cable - Youtube Video

 

I can't believe how much of an omission not including that was. I answered the same question yesterday on another forum. 20mm will do fine.

While I've mentioned NAPA, some who have gotten cabling from there that was pure copper. If you not in a rush, there are EBay and Amazon sources that have similar priced products that are plated so they are not as prone to corrosion as pure copper. Boating sources are also good. It's not a major deal if you already installed copper, but if you are in process it's a better situation.

I'll add one other thing. If you have the opportunity I would add an 8ga or so wire from the drivers neg terminal to that ground connection above the drivers headlight. That ground is also the ground point for the PCM harness, and there is no reason that the path should go from there, through the firewall or radiator support to the body ground at the passenger battery pigtail at the fender. Every bolt connection has a potential for a voltage drop and while there is not a history of an issue, that's a lot of connections I myself don't care for. 8ga is BIG, so if you have in stock something smaller it would work.

 

Well,

The checklist is in order.

After talking with Ed this morning, I have a new DC Power 185Amp alternator on its way. Thank you again for all your help.

Checking all ground locations this weekend.

Then it should be good. I will report back with the info for a completion to this thread, after the alternator is installed.

Thanks everyone.

 

Hardly a great omission. I felt bad asking it since it would seem an easy thing to see for myself but when I looked, I couldn't see without removing some stuff. I wasn't sure if the hole was previously occupied, or how deep it was and I'm about to go pick up a cable for it. I'll stop by Ace Hardware next door and get a bolt while I'm at it. Interestingly enough, my local Napa will sell me the pieces, but they won't make a cable up at this one. No big deal, but it shows they aren't all the same.

 

Something like this?

The same seller also offers plated 1/0 lugs with hole sizes of 3/8" and 1/2". A 10 mm bolt might not go in a 3/8" hole. Not sure if that is a nominal size hole with some extra clearance for a 3/8" bolt or not. Maybe an M10 cap bolt with a generous cap would work with the 1/2 sized lug.

 

When I keep having to answer the question, it was an omission.

I bought 3/8" which worked but you can get 10mm too.

Unless you have the proper crimper to make "gas tight" connections, just get the cable already made. I'm not endorsing this guy, but I've bought cables from him when my local boating store didn't have what I wanted. He build cables for me to the exact length I wanted, he even asked to make sure, and they were very well made. There are other vendors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-0-AWG-Custom-Cables-Ready-Install-Made-Tinned-Marine-Battery-Cable-/290774638618?var=&hash=item8963892241

 

The crux of it is, if you have the locations exposed and can look for yourself, it's no big deal. But if you want to obtain the parts first, then tear into it, it's nice to know. You really are generous with your time and assistance. Thanks a bunch.

Technically, 3/8ths is smaller than 10mm, so clearly they make the lugs with generous nominal sizes. Good to know. And I definitely don't have proper crimping tools for this. Thanks again and hope the OP isn't too annoyed by my crashing in on his thread. Hopefully all this is viewed as relevant to his topic.

 

I just came back from NAPA. The alternator I had on there was "BAD". Wouldn't even turn it, cause the internal electrical components weren't working. What ever that means. Probably from me sparking it when I went to tighten the positive post. I am a Newb!!!!

Anyways, I am glad I pulled it off in time, instead of continuing to drive around with it on.