Would like to replace the Main Bearings on my 240 motor. Can it be done with good results by just dropping the oil pan?

 

To remove the upper half of the main bearing they do make a device you can put in the oiling hole and then rotate the crankshaft to remove and reinstall the upper half. A cotter pin bent 'just so' can do the trick, too. Otherwise you'd have to drop the crankshaft a smidge to get out the upper half.

Just changing main bearings without doing anything to the crankshaft is maybe not the best approach in all cases. Usually if the bearings are worn or grooved the crankshaft will be as well. Simply putting in new bearings can be problematic.

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Actually, the shop manual says if you need to replace the rear main bearing to go ahead and pull the engine out and put it on a stand and replace it as well as the rear main seal at the same time. Probably not a bad idea.

The original bearings are selective fit. Undersize bearings are not. How you'd know which size bearing to run in a worn engine without turning the crank to a known size is - well - I'll let you decide.

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Thanks..maybe I should leave well alone..It runs ok but thought maybe I hurt the bearing etc. when the Oil pump failed..

 

Do you need to pull the engine to replace the Rear main seal?

 

No, but you would need to pull out the transmission. The rear main seal is a one piece rear main and if you use one from a particular other engine you can use a more modern double-lip Vitron or Neoprene type of seal. I want to say the seal from a 302/351W but I would have to go back and look at my notes if I can find them. It's a pretty common swap instead of using the original type of rear main seal with the single lip. Let me dig up anything I can on that.

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Thanks. I got a Main seal from NPD. They descript it as one piece/BS 40509
I am also having a new clutch put into the truck.

 

Ya, that's the single lip rear seal. You might take a few and read up on the double-lip seal. I put one in and they are really nice. As long as you are that far in using a seal that is a more modern design could help keep it sealed up a bit longer. I hate leaks though.

FORDSIX PERFORMANCE ? View topic - rear main seal installation...

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You have to read that other thread to the bitter end, but the guy shows a picture of the newer seal like I bought. It the one that looks black with white dashes around the perimeter. Hopefully here's a direct link.

FORDSIX PERFORMANCE ? View topic - rear main seal installation...

Really like this seal. Installs dry with a plastic sleeve that is used during installation to protect the lip and then removed. It's just far superior to the original design and totally different. Read that very last message in the thread, too. It's a good tip on removing the old seal and is how they say to do it in the shop manual, too.

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What do you think:
I'm having:
clutch assembly set installed
Rear Main seal installed
Valve cover gasket installed
Being charged $500 here in NY

 

Is that inclusive of all parts? By clutch assembly set you mean the disc, the pressure plate, the throw out bearing, the flywheel resurfaced, a new starter ring gear installed and the pilot bearing replaced? If that is so I'd say its reasonable. Just my opinion...

 

I supplied the parts..

 

Sounds about right. Labor is not cheap. What about a guarantee? It might be expensive, but then I bet it doesn't leak a drop when they are done. How much is that worth? Can try to get a couple different estimates, but..

It's tough to give estimates on old truck maintenance (I'm surprised they did) for a couple different reasons. It may depend on state law whether they are willing or required to, can imagine. They can run into some bad legal deals if they give estimates and the customer doesn't pay.

But, old trucks are a lot different than working on new stuff, you can quickly run into problems that weren't obvious. The book rate might say it's a 3 hour job, but that was 45 years ago. If they offer a flat rate they could end up eating it and working "for free" for a couple hours. Make sure these folks know what they are doing. Old guys with gray hair and such usually.

Another issue, providing parts means they have less wiggle room or whatever, usually parts are marked up pretty good. That way their labor rates don't look so bad, even though the total price is the same. There won't be any warrantee as such, on parts you provide. I am not knocking the shops mind you, they have to keep the lights on, pay workers, taxes, etc. And if you find a good shop that is both willing, and able, to work on your truck, consider yourself lucky. They are drying up. Bite your tongue and sign, sometimes, a checkbook is my favorite "tool".

 

Great..thought is was a fair price..