Are these the U-joints on the rear driveline ? That would throw off the balance, if so. I think you found your problem, brother. Good job !

 

Yea that's what I've been tackling all day bro. What a pain. Two of those end caps were garbage. The needle bearings were gone man. So, hopefully after I get this drive line put back in that noise I was hearing will be gone.

Now I'm just trying to figure out the front end. Not sure of you saw my previous posts about what I found today. So, now that will be my next step. I really think the metal clunking I have been hearing for like 2 years is the yoke coming out of the front axle. There seems to be a lot of play in it and I can hear metal to metal clunking when I push on it up and down. I'm just trying to figure out what kind of seal or bearing that it rides on inside the axle. Cause I'm pretty sure I need to replace that.

 

I don't know if that's normal because it wouldn't take to much wear on the two bearings to make noise,You will have to take it apart to confirm,them needle bearings need greased on a schedule and are known to dry out over time & they wear on the axle surface because the axle is the inner wear surface to the needle bearings.

 

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing crop. I'm not talking about the stub shaft that the wheel hub assembly rides on. The stub shafts are good and so are the needle bearings. I have those on a schedule for periodic lubing.

I'm talking about the shaft that goes into the axle itself and attaches to the stub shaft. That part is moving up and down inside the axle. So far from my research online, all it looks like is a dust seal that is pressed onto that axle shaft. I can't see anything else. Anyway, not sure if you and I were on the same page. If you already understood what I was saying I apologize. Just wanted everyone to understand what I was talking about.

 

The front U-joints will naturally have some slop in them, only a little though. There are no bearings at the end of the axle tube just a dust seal. There is a bearing in the 4X4 hub itself and is what supports the outer axle stub. Your clunk sound can be sloppy U-joints or a worn out bearing in the hub, easy to see once the hub is removed.

Have you ever been behind the hub before? A lot of PO's try and do it them selves and screw up the orientation. Do you know if the 3 washers are there and in a correct configuration? Plastic thrust washer in good shape and in the correct way?

The 3 washers and snap ring should look like this.





4 bolts on the backside and Hub being removed...





After hub is removed this plastic thrust washer needs to be installed one way, smooth side out groove side in. Note, if you have auto locking hubs there is a yellow O-ring that should be replaced as the old one will crack if reinstalled and you will no longer have working 4X4.





Here is the outer hub seal. I don't have a pic of the inner dust seal that is on the axle tube side but you can see it.





Here you can see the bearing that the axle stub sits in.

 

When I had my driveline work done, they let me watch the process. Once I saw what was involved, I was very grateful I took it in - I didn't want a piece of that. That bearing press got a real workout, and he had specialty pieces to accomplish things in seconds that would take me all freaking day.

 

You are correct,THEDON117 ,I was referring to the outer half,the carrier or pumpkin is what carries the inside half of that drive line,the spline shaft just floats in the carrier assembly,don't think them splines would be a normal wear item.

 

Scotty, thanks for the great pictures and technical breakdown of the hub bearing replacement procedure. Excellent ! This is why I am part of this forum, to get great info from the experienced wrenches like you. That is invaluable stuff right there. One question, and this may help out THEDON with his quest : are the U-joints in the knuckle behind the hub bearing usually replaced at the same time as the bearing is ? Or in your opinion, should they be ? Seems like since a guy is already into it that deep, it would be a good move.

 

Some places like Ford will say you have to replace the whole hub bearing assembly, but it can be changed out with a press and usually can grease the inner bearing through the ABS connector if the truck has 4 wheel ABS. If they appear to be fine and look to be in good condition I would leave then alone. Some say if your going that deep to replace it all with this many miles but that can get expensive unless there is excessive play and obvious wear. I would visually inspect and then decide.

 

Thanks for the informative post Scott. Actually I have been behind the hub assembly more times than not. I think I have changed so many hub assemblies now I can do one in about 30mins. But to answer your questions, yes I have all those pieces in the correct order. I feel better knowing I'm supposed to have some play down there.
My front hub assemblies are new. The stub shafts are in great shape. I have been keeping those on a regular schedule for lubing the needle bearings. I did replace the dust seal on the inner knuckle shaft coming out of the axle quite some time ago. I'm thinking maybe those things are worn out. My plan is to replace the front u-joints as well. They are the originals with 200,000 miles on them. Since I'm going through the underside looking for anything in bad shape, I'm going to replace all u-joints. I will also tackle the front drive shaft too. I have a laundry list of things to do on this rig before summer hits and I take the seasons first camping trip.

 

HA, I hear you on that one. One thing that is going to get added to my garage inventory is a press. That made the job so much easier.

 

Copy that. Thanks Crop.

 

I have done some of that before. I wish now I had changed out those front u-joints a long time ago. But they will be getting done soon. I will for sure to post back on all the part changing and see what it does.

 

Good. That's a great help for those of us who haven't had to do this kind of work yet.

 

Update. So, I got my drive line back in today. After yesterday's ordeal and by the time my buddy and I got done, I didn't want anything to do with putting that in last night.
Took it for a spin on the highway today. WOW, what a freaking difference. Like I mentioned I had a couple joints that were toast, once we pulled them out. Well, that vibration/resonating sound I was hearing, yea well it's gone! All because of those u-joints. The truck feels and rides different now. I can't believe it.
So, my next step is to replace the u-joints in the front and change all the seals and maybe that will help cure my metal clunking sound I have had for a very long time. If not, I will move onto the steering box and see if that takes care of it. If I can figure out that noise I will be a happy camper! Thanks for all the input and help thus far guys, I really appreciate it. That's why this site is so valuable.
Oh yea, before I forget, always spend the money on the best parts you can buy. I bought a some u-joints a while back and replaced them and they were the ones that were destroyed, because they were not a good brand. You get what you pay for!