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1990 f250 5.8l barely idles and dies if trying hold at constant throttle?
will barely idle and will die if trying to hold at constant throttle will rev up just fine though. replaced EGR valve,tube and sensor,TPS,IAC,vaccum solenoid,FPR,full tune up. Ran out of ideas
Around 30psi at an idle, should increase about 10psi when the vac line to the FPR is removed (put your thumb over the end of it while its off for the brief test).
Pressure should also increase when goose the throttle wide open, don't hold it just floor it then let off.
Should hold within 5 psi of spec for IIRC 5 minutes after turning the key off "by the book", system in good working order will hold pressure for much longer than that though.
Low is bad so is dropping to zero fairly quick after turning the key "off".
Borrowing a gauge first thing tomm. If that doesn't check out what would be the best solution? Or if it does check out what else do u think it could be? Ran fine the last time I used it about a month ago
Borrowing a gauge first thing tomm. If that doesn't check out what would be the best solution? Or if it does check out what else do u think it could be? Ran fine the last time I used it about a month ago
Your comments suggest a fuel related issue.
You can and should re check your work, you did a full tune up plugs cap rotor and wires?
Double check your work, make sure you have the firing order correct starting with number one working counter clockwise around the cap.
You wouldn't be the first one to mix a couple up and sure won't be the last, not saying you did just to double check it to verify its correct.
Make sure you didn't break any vac lines make sure you didn't knock any vac lines or electrical connectors off digging around on the motor swapping all those parts out.
What are you calling a "vaccum solenoid"?
Did you check the TPS after it was installed to make sure its fully closed value fell anywhere between 0.6-1.0 volts? Probably did but doesn't hurt to verify that it did being as you have issues.
Yea did cap rotor plugs wires and coil and I'll double check everything. Vaccum selenoid is on the drivers side near the coil that connects to the egr valve. Didn't check tps volts but will do that also
Yea did cap rotor plugs wires and coil and I'll double check everything. Vaccum selenoid is on the drivers side near the coil that connects to the egr valve. Didn't check tps volts but will do that also
I thought that was probably the case but wanted you to clarify just to be sure.
I haven't been bale to check fuel pressure yet my buddy wasn't home for me to borrow his tester. But I do have another quick question the truck has no emissions equipment on it is the canister purge solenoid(right in front of throttle body) and fuel vapor canister necessary?
Finally just went and bought a pressure gauge. When u turn the key on it goes to 38psi when at (barely) idle it was 34psi and when u rev it up about 36psi. That seems to be in spec. right?
take the vacuum line off the FPR, pressure should be close to 40.
Does the truck drive? You said you can rev it up but will it drive? More load requires more fuel and would be good to know what happens under driving conditions.