I replaced my generator with one from NAPA which is rated 43 watts bs 35 for the stock. What a difference (besides the bearing noise). The generator light does not come on at idle with the headlights on. My truck is stock so keeping the generator was a must. What pleasant surprise on the additional output. It was noisy for the first week, but the bearing settled and it quieted down.


Hi Bill, I have not posted for a while hope you are still involved in FTE.

 

I have a 1962 F250 with the 292ci. Do you have the part number and price available? sounds like what I need, I always just thought my headlights were supposed to be yellow, lol. thanks,


wfo1955

 

I bet that wasn't a bearing making noise, but new brushes. They can sometimes make a loud high pitch squeel or scraping noise for little while till they wear down a bit and conform to the commutator.

Yellow headlights: No, they are not supposed to be yellow! These old cars trucks are a constant problem with either rust and corrosion at critical junctions on originals or layers of paint on restored ones. If you don't clean up the ground points at block and frame, firewall, SAE connections etc, replace old ground cables, I doubt very much you'll be able to see at night. A stock generator should work just fine. Check your generator output voltage (see chart) and the voltage drop as well, at the headlights. I guarantee it is excessive coupled with weak output. The resistance in the circuit will smoke the headlight switch. Relays are one way around this but they didn't come with bad grounds and yellow lights from the factory as such.

Generators (alternators and the ignition too) hate excessive resistance anywhere in the circuit. No relays available there. Starters too Here, paint and corrosion on the engine block and generator brackets will cause big trouble. Grind generator mounting boss on the block itself down to bright shiny metal where the brackets and generator connect and tighten securely. The generator output voltage on my 64 hardly sags at all even when running headlights and heater at cruise. I coupled a (new) rebuilt generator with NOS Motorcraft regulator and cleaned the schitt out of everything just to see how it was supposed to work "back in the day". Guess what? It runs dead nuts on spec, right out of the manual. Imagine that!

Also using repro Ford script halogens, always considered to be a no-no with generator systems. Another couple few amps should not be an issue! And it hasn't, been running halogens trouble free for almost 20 years now.

To measure voltage drop present in a circuit is a basic skill you have to learn if you're going to drive an old rig. High current circuits must be measured for resistance under load. For a simple example: connect one probe of the voltmeter on the negative battery post, the other on a clean, unpainted portion of the generator case. Now, run the motor up from idle to 1500-2500 RPM with the headlights on, heater on, etc. The voltage lost in the cables, corroded grounds, loose connections, etc will be displayed as a positive voltage. Zero of course would be best, but the limit is +0.2 volts. Much more than that - headlights dim, starters slow down, generators only charge the battery to 80%. You may even notice sluggish warmup times and reduced engine performance.

The same type of test can be performed with headlights too, one probe on the negative at the battery post and one on the headlight negative terminal. Interestingly generators actually are spec'd higher than alternators for charge voltage, about 15 volts is in the ballpark, depending on temps:

 

Usually they are measured in amperes. 30 ampere being standard or, 450 watts @15 volts. Higher amp generators were/are available, but limited amperage output is just one of the reasons alternators replaced them. One thing people forget, while alternator conversion itself is fairly easily done the stock OEM harness wiring is probably not sized or gauged for heavy draws that the new alternator would be capable of providing.

 

The NAPA Part Number: RAY 2137000 for $45. The catalog indicates 30 amp but the housing or label indicated 42 amps. You may have order one and see what is on the generator. I do not recall if my headlights were whiter because I rarely drive at night. The lights do get notably whiter when the engine revs in the garage which should mean the generator is producing more than the 12.5-13 volts of a fully charged battery.


What was noticeable was my Gen light would come on around 550 rpm and at higher rpms if the lights were on and stay for a while after starting. The Gen light never comes with the new generator. The bearing started whining which is why it was replaced it.


If your lights are yellow follow Tedsters recommendations before spending the $45. I use 600 or 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper to clean my connections. I have a California truck that ended up in South Texas and most of my connections have benefited from cleaning.


The Ford script headlights are cool. I have been more safety aware since my son got 15 stitches in his head. I have installed disc brakes and 3 point seat belts. Now is the time for the headlights. Summer is on its way in Texas and with no AC I drive more at night in the summer.

 

Wait. You bought a rebuilt generator from NAPA @ $45? You Suck!

THAT is a screaming deal. Considered myself lucky to find one for $100! See them routinely for around $225 from the usual suspects. And that's only with exchange /w rebuildable core.

 

Ill be lookin for that generator at napa. Ill keep the core just because i like to keep all original parts. I got lucky on this truck; it is totally original, well okay 90%. I too am somewhat anel about my connections, all are heat shrunk.

 

My shop manual doesn't mention anything other than a 30 amp generator, maybe it was a police or fire issue? Probably a rare bird, may be able to flip it for small, but useful, profit. Dunno. Thing is, I don't think the extra current can be utilized, not without a similarly rated higher output generator regulator. The stock regulator should peg out @ 30 amps. Everything should still work fine of course.

 

I will look for the stamping or sticker when I get home this weekend. I have never heard of anything but a 30amp and the catalog notes 30amps. I assumed they used a better rebuild process. I could just be crazy.

NAPAs price is great. Dennis Carpenter wanted close to that for bearings and brushes plus shipping. There was a core charge. NAPA will us ally impact wrench the pulley on and off for you if you need it.

 

The pulleys are kind of hard to find readily. None online hardly. I know, the horror. Usually somebody has dropped the generator at some point in the distant past and pranged them too. There are different diameter pulleys for cars and trucks and engines and this will affect cut-in RPM.

 

Injust confirmed that the napa store near me gas one, on sale $45.00 + $33.00 core, thanks for the tip

 

NAPA generator price confirmed!!! Today i ordered a rebuilt generator, NAPA part number 2137000, $45.00 ON SALE RIGHT NOW!!!, $33.00 CORE CHARGE. I think im going to pay the core and keep my original fomoco. I do not know about the amps, pick it up 2-11-2016.

Thanks to FTE fellow, sorry forgot your username. What a deal. Also pull off your pulley/fan, you'll need it for the rebuilt one. Easy to take off, first spray the nut with your favorite lube. I think its a 7/8" nut. Stick screwdriver between the blades, use an air ratchet, comes off, then use 4" or larger triple claw puller.

 

A follow up. I just found a rebuilt generator (30 amps) for $39.99 + $10.00 core at rock auto. Heck of a deal. In preparation i attempted to pull my fan pulley from my fomoco original and broke the entire flange, cracked it all to pieces. Bummer. What i should have done was remove the long 1/4" bolts FIRST, then use claw puller, oh well 60 years old and still learning.

Wfo1955

 

Wow thats good that NAPA still has them. I gave $155 for one on epay. Last I browsed the catalog, Carpenter doesn't sell complete generators anymore. They do have an alternator lookalike which is hard to tell from the original but at $375 I don't think so, no no !

 

I finally took a picture of the generator label. The P/N line indicates 12V 30A which is what the stock generator was. Below there the output is rated at 46 amps which I believe as the Alt light never comes on any more. The bearings were gone in the old generator and the Alt light would come on at low engine speeds.

I replaced all of the battery cables today and added a bonding strap from the body to the frame. The starter spins with authority now.