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Is anyone running a built idi and an E4OD? Looking at either overhauling it to be on the safe side or selling it as a swap kit and going with a ZF. Mine would be behind a 6.9 studded, intercooled, ats093-hypermax equivalent, maybe a wicked wheel 2, cam, new injectors and maxxed new pump. Secondly, and probably most importantly, the truck will be used to haul big rounds (20k gross) and fully loaded stock trailer (towards 30k) maybe even mini excavators and skid-steers occasionally.
Should I rebuild it, if so, do I have to go all out with updated parts ($$$)? Or save myself the hassle and go 5-speed and clutch. Spare ZF is also already in my possesion.
I would do whichever you like driving. LuK SMF kit will hold 300+whp, and i would drop a tugger in the E40D and a aux. trans cooler. I dont think you will hurt the ZF5 or the E40D.
Mine will likely end up with an E40D eventually, as by time you buy custom clutches that will reliably hold 400+hp, the ZF becomes a liability.
Is anyone running a built idi and an E4OD? Looking at either overhauling it to be on the safe side or selling it as a swap kit and going with a ZF. Mine would be behind a 6.9 studded, intercooled, ats093-hypermax equivalent, maybe a wicked wheel 2, cam, new injectors and maxxed new pump. Secondly, and probably most importantly, the truck will be used to haul big rounds (20k gross) and fully loaded stock trailer (towards 30k) maybe even mini excavators and skid-steers occasionally.
Should I rebuild it, if so, do I have to go all out with updated parts ($$$)? Or save myself the hassle and go 5-speed and clutch. Spare ZF is also already in my possesion.
From what I have read, an E4OD is pretty bullet proof of you upgrade the torque converter, upgrade the valve body, and add a tranny cooler like Mike said. With those mods they last even behind a modded PSD.
I know they are pretty stout but there was a bunch of upgrades made in 1992 I think that really improved them. I have decided to do a valvebody kit and cooler for sure. The torque converter is a good idea, maybe an upgraded fluid pump too. Of course then maybe it's a good idea to replace clutches and seals while it's open...
When I smoked the trans in my 94, the trans mechanic said he can build it to bullet proof using a billet converter, and parts from the 4R100, and a controller. And to use a good cooler. He said to separate it from the rad, just warm up an extra 5 min in the winter. So that's the plan. I was talking to him about multiple coolers, one under the crossover tool box, and he said he used to run one in the box side on his old dodge.
Our resident trans guru, former trans engineer for ford says not to eliminate the trans cooler in the radiator. And what the hell is a crossover toolbox?
I have a flatbed and it is not a pavement queen, last thing I want is a cooler subject to random sticks, rocks and the like. With a kit from the website posted and a converter from summit I'd be looking at a bit over a grand, I'll probably keep it simple with a valvebody kit and cooler then if anything goes wrong I'll do a full rebuild. The problem with just upgrading the converter is that if the trans dies it has a good chance of taking the converter with it or at least depositing trash in it. Coolers and valvebodies however can be readily cleaned by the home mechanic.
Crossover tool box, I mean the aluminum tool boxed that sit across the box, sitting on the box side rails. I figured since the spare is too thick to fit underneath it, I might as well make use of the space and mount a cooler with fan there. Can you have the ford trans Guru explain why? I understand that you want the oil to be up to temperature, and not a red slurpee, but the Fords flow oil when in park (unlike Mopar), so if you warm the truck up for a little extra time, allowing the oil to circulate, should this not work? I live in Alberta, and plug my trucks in below -20C. A pan heater may be a good option maybe. Heat the Engine oil, the trans oil, and the Coolant. $20 insurance?
The rad cooler is not there to warm the trans fluid but to cool it. It is more efficient for heat to transfer into a liquid than to air. A cooler mounted in front of the radiator seems a lot less likely to take damage than under the toolbox to me. Anything in the bed sliding around could take it out, plus the plumbing would be an issue. No airflow other than an auxilary fan.
I also have heard from reliable sources not to bypass the radiator cooler and that it is substantially better at cooling the trans than and liquid to air style. I kept mine and installed a 6.0 cooler after it.
I put in a thermostat to keep it from over-cooling in the winter
Pic of the cooler installed
I asked Mark K about it and this was the setup he recommended. He said to get a thermostat/cooler with the largest openings so that they are not a flow restriction. The thermostat has 1/2" npt openings and the cooler uses 1/2" lines to slide over the openings.
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