I may be calling this too soon, but I think I lost the battle - "Stinky's" engine might be done. I'm still waiting for some more test gear to arrive - but I now have bottom-end knock, valve slap, and the engine bucks pretty violently. If I were to make guesses, I'd throw bent crank, bent piston rod, or oblonged crank bushing on the suspect list. Whatever it is, I fear one of those pistons isn't where it's supposed to be when it's supposed to be.

Here's a recent recording of the sound at cylinder 7 before it progressed to the level I'm experiencing now:


This didn't just "show up". I caught new noises and some early warning signs a few thousand miles back, and it was slowly building at first - but it accelerated quickly in the last 500 miles. I just checked the injector torque a couple of weeks back and all was well. I plan to see if anything changed since then, and I'll do another compression test to see if the 400 PSI per cylinder drifted. I also have a thermal camera on the way to look for hot/cold spots.

Stinky passes every test available on scan tools, and every gauge on the dash, under the dash, and on the OBDII port looks excellent - but the ear and butt test says something is very wrong in there. Under normal circumstances, I'd suspect a loose injector - but this is very different from anything I've experienced with that.

One might ask how this came about, and I have three likely answers: I did too much damage during the learning phase of modding, the engine was already beat when I bought it (too many in/out air leaks and possible heat damage), or both combined.

Time and resources for doing a rebuild don't exist, so mulling over my options for a way to "buy" my way out of this:

• Going with a built-up engine is (A) expensive, (B) no serious warranty, and (C) not easily supported in my small watering hole of a town.
• Have the dealership replace the engine (full warranty - expensive, but very safe).
• Get a used engine (very risky).
• Find a reputable engine remanufacturer (somewhat risky).
• Get another truck.

With any of these, I have to decide what to do with all my engine upgrades - add them to next engine/truck, reboot to stock, or downgrade the injectors a bit to IH 160/0.

In answer to the next question I anticipate - I want to reliably pull a 5er after I pay my way out of this mess. Stinky is essentially a new truck with a "legacy" Superduty body. I have poured so much cash into the undercarriage that nothing under there is worn... not so much as a bearing or gear. This dissuades me from starting over with any other truck. If I were to sell Stinky - even with all the goodies under there, I'm never going to get a decent price on a truck with nothing to make it go.

So... IF I learn I'm correct and the motor is truly done, I am leaning very hard on doing the Dealership thing. It has the best support in my small community, the fewest questions, the best chance for success, and I have devised a plan to soften the siphon on the Buck$Zooka:

What if... I horse-trade all the engine upgrades out to the members here, and I get all the tired parts to put in Stinky. The engine core will have the same value if it has 400 HP worth of upgrades... or spent sticks, tired turbo, haggard HPOP, and cracked CAC boots. I could sell the goodies (at a discount, because they are used) and everybody gets something out of the deal.

All thoughts, opinions, suggestions, counterpoints, "You overlooked something" comments, and "It's likely just this and you're over-reacting" solutions are welcome. Bring it on.

 

Sorry to hear this Rich. This kinda like having your star quarterback out for the season.

I too have been listening to a knock that I can't find or reduce despite all parameters reading as they should, and have already devised a plan for the day.

Culling through the same list of options you are, I will be:

Tearing it down myself to spec out all components to find the source.
Having it rebuilt by a local talent.
Reinstalling the plant by myself.

Obviously there will be no warranty but having hands on will be enough of a certainty for me. This is the least expensive route and while it is a laborious task, the effort will be well worth it in terms of saving the truck and some cash.

With your knowledge and fortitude, depending on the extent of damage to the block (if any) I would urge you to dare yourself and take it on.

Option B: You can always ask the brotherhood of FTE if anyone is interested in doing a rebuild for a few bucks. There are many in hear that are capable. Your freight expenses and charges for kits and machine work considered, along with labor charges may be a lot less than the other options.

When I bought my rig 2nd hand, it had no warranty and that didn't scare me off.

Just pounding thoughts your way and hope you find a solution or conclusion that you'll be happy with.

All the best,

Denny

 

If I were in your shoes, I would be prioritizing my choices in the following order.

-Have the dealership replace the engine (full warranty - expensive, but very safe).
-Find a reputable engine re-manufacturer (somewhat risky).
-Get another truck.
-Going with a built-up engine is (A) expensive, (B) no serious warranty, and (C) not easily supported in my small watering hole of a town.
-Get a used engine (very risky).

My reasoning is based on my life experiences and my opinion alone. The dealership is a bit tricky as well because the dealer would have to be a good one and not a hack job. The only way I would even consider the last two choices is if I had the expertise to do a swap (which I don't) or was very close to an FTE member that would either take the task under hand for a fee, or be willing to help for a fee.

You have done a lot to that truck to get it to where it is. I understand that the heart of the truck is the engine, but a heart transplant is not unheard of, especially when the rest of the truck is in great shape. I know you have a lot of time, money and sweat into the suspension, steering, fuel system, etc...

Getting rid of the truck (unless you can go out and buy a new one) would be the last option on my own personal list before going with modified. Although, a lot of people run modified engines, but that is not for me. I have been in the tuning world before where I had to mod this thing or that thing to offset this other thing. It is an endless domino effect and I did not enjoy it after a while. This is why I stuck to very conservative modifications for my 7.3 build and why I will probably just go with rebuilt AD injectors by Rosewood. I know you can squeeze just a little bit more power or change the delivery of torque and horsepower, but I pulled our 10K lbs travel trailer from GA to Seattle and back this summer without a problem. That was before I did any of the performance modifications in my signature. I have 100% confidence in my truck, and know I have not stepped through the "did I push it too hard" threshold.

Good luck with your choices and keep us informed.

 

The dealership has a 7.3L mechanic that I trust - but I have tried not to use him much because of the expense.

In answer to two of the suggestions, Cody called about 3 minutes after I posted. Gotta love the support on FTE. He has a core engine, a cherry picker, a stand, some time, and the need for something I have. This would be so awesome to take a few days off work, get a good reman, and swap that puppy out with a good friend's help. On top of all that, he would live-tune the new engine - the Grand Poo-Bah of all awesomeness.

I still have to confirm the problem is real. In the call, Cody said a dampener that has broken free can cause similar symptoms to what I'm experiencing - and I already know my valve guides are sloppy. This could be something as simple as a Fluid Dampn'r and a valve job - or not. A valve job on an engine with 310K sounds dubious.

Great feedback and support, guys! I'm anxious to hear anything at this point.

 

I'm still a student and I can't help much but I wish you luck and will watch to see how it pans out. It sounds like you're already on track to a viable solution. One disadvantage to living in the outback in a state like WA is the availability of options. Here in the suburbs of Philly (city of Brotherly Love) we have options out the wazoo, with the exception of good honest mechanics.

 

Additionally, FWIW I have just obtained a spare motor to pick major components off of in my time of need. If you need any major components I may be able to assist you.

 

You might consider a blackstone report at this point. I used it once on an engine that I suspected was nearing the point of scrap and it provided another valuable data point to that end.

I would go with a rebuild or known good core 2nd. Definitely reuse all your good performance parts, they don't have anything do to with the wear other than perhaps the injectors which you can downsize if desired.

 

I'd get a lkq remain motor and throw all the goodies you got back into it, that's the way I'd do it. They are gone threw by the techs there, they make it all pretty for ya and are pretty reliable used motors.

 

A used or reman?

LKQ rebuilds are done by ATK-stay far away.

 

Can you still get a new 7.3 liter engine? I didn't think they would be available anymore.

 

Rich, I don't know Cody other than here. That said, I'd work with him, since he offered, if in fact it needs a rebuild. You have a new truck in need of a motor. Compare the price of that versus a new or newer truck. Something some people don't take into consideration is, people like Cody know people, and they know people. Much like the brotherhood here. You may be 1000 miles or so away from him, but he likely knows someone around, or knows someone that knows someone around that can help should something need attention. A friend up the road from me has a shop and they specialize in PSD's and I brought that up to him a few years back, That's what he said. He's had to find people places to take their trucks if/when something comes up and they couldn't get it back to his shop.

Let's make it real simple. Who would you want to rebuild your 7.3?

1-Cody, a guy that you know, whose reputation is 2nd to none, at least with regards to the 7.3psd.
2-A re-manufacturing facility, that may do good work on most days, except on Monday mornings or Friday afternoons.
3-A re-manufacturing facility that does everything the absolute cheapest way possible. Uses nothing but the cheapest chinese manufactured parts, and workers that get paid 5 bucks an hour that can't speak the native tongue.

 

Rich, my revised list now looks like this...

- Enlist Cody to rebuild/help rebuild (or replace) and install your engine
- Have the dealership replace the engine (full warranty - expensive, but very safe).
- Find a reputable engine re-manufacturer (somewhat risky).
- Get another truck.

If I were in your situation, I would be well on my way to verifying the problem is or is not catastrophic and if it is, then finding a way to get Cody and my truck together for a bit of quality time.

 

I say figure out what's wrong with it and if need be, I can have the block, crank, rods, and heads at the machine shop in a day. My machining guy Norm is second to none.

 

Enough said!

 

I am agreeing with Sous, John and Cody. If you can figure out what is causing the issue, you are in really good shape. If you can figure it out when the engine is still in the truck life is looking even better.

At the same time if you have the time and facilities available to pull the engine and inspect, that may be worth it as well. Personally if you have a good place to do it and good friend(s) to do it with, I'd yank it out and give it a good inspection. Fix whatever may be wrong and feel really good about your engine because you know all the work that has been done. Also that will mean you've seen the internals with your own eyes.

The only thing I regret about pulling my engine is the fact that I didn't have more money to stick in it at the time. I would have done a lot more maintenance and upgrade work while it was all easily accessible.

Just my 2 cents though.

Baatzy