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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

4 Inch lifts?

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Old Feb 7, 2016 | 08:15 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by HuskyFlareside
I'll have to check out that Pro Comp kit, Is it better then the Jeeps kits? My dad had one on his YJ and I wasn't super impressed with it. I'm still wondering with the drive-shaft talk, is it necessary to some work on it? Still confused on that part
The one guy with the short bed said he didn't have any problems. So try it and see what happens.

The problem is the steeper angles when the suspension drops from the lift. When you drive it now, it should be smooth with no vibration or humming. After you put the lift on it, if you have any vibration or humming coming and going from the rearend area, you know you might need to do something back there. They make wedges to put under the axle mount pads to point the nose of the rearend up, and you can get a driveline shop to help you get it zeroed in correctly.

Why don't you do some research on people in your area that specialize in driveshaft work? Get it scoped out before you do the deed, and then you will be ready in case you need their help. Talk to them and see what they say about it.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2016 | 11:32 PM
  #17  
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I found a shop today that'll help me in my area, I'll have to talk with them sometime this week, thanks for all the help I'll keep you guys posted
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 12:04 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by HuskyFlareside
.... I'm still wondering with the drive-shaft talk, is it necessary to some work on it? Still confused on that part
Lengthening driveshafts is the most common work needed after a lift. Like I said above, I didn't need to do that on my SCSB with a 3" lift. A 4" lift on a RCSB is a little more aggressive and therefore a little more likely to need longer 'shafts (especially the rear). Still not clear to me that it will be needed, bit it'd be an open question for me.

U-joint angles are the next concern. You probably won't get into trouble with a 4" lift, but lowering the rear of the transfer case is sometimes needed to get away from binding, or vibration. CV (double Cardan) joints, moving spring perches to rotate the pinion up, or high-angle U-joints are other tools that can be used (Jeeps can also go to a slip yoke eliminator, but I don't think any kits are available for our t.cases).

Slip yoke (or slip joint) travel is another possible problem if the new suspension will have more travel than the original suspension. But that shouldn't be an issue with a bolt-on 4" lift.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2016 | 08:19 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by HuskyFlareside
I'm still wondering with the drive-shaft talk, is it necessary to some work on it? Still confused on that part
With only a 4" lift added, a stock length driveshaft will be fine. Once you get into 6"+ you have to start lengthening things (brake lines/driveshafts/ect)
 
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 05:38 PM
  #20  
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" I put a 4" Pro Comp lift on it from Summit Racing"

"Also had 33-12.5 tires on it with absolutely no clearance issues."

I have those tires with no lift and only rub at 100% lock. I'd hope there's no issue rubbing with 4" of lift.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 07:00 PM
  #21  
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Alright, I'll get the lift and install and take it to the shop and let them look at it. Thanks for the help guys, I'll update once it's installed and checked out
 
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Old Feb 11, 2016 | 11:29 AM
  #22  
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I didn't see it mentioned, maybe I missed it, but be aware that going to larger tires is like reducing the gear ratio.


When my truck was new I swapped the stock 29" tires for 33"s and it really "killed the power". The truck had 3.54 gearing.


Later I swapped in 4.56 gears and went to a 37" tire. The 4.56 with 37s are about the same as the 3.54 with 29" tires. So unless, you have the gearing, or plan to upgrade, be careful not to go too tall on the tire size.
 
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