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You need to go into your Torque Pro settings for units - you know, things like PSI, degrees F, MPH, etc.... Once you have everything set to the imperial standards, the numbers will convert automatically.
That's the first thing I checked, and it was already set to Fahrenheit. However, after reading your reply, I went out and checked again with the KOEO. It was still reading Celsius. I switched the units back and forth a couple of times in the settings and checked again. Still reading Celsius. I did it one more time before giving up (click the Celsius setting on and off) and now its reading F. Weird. I'm guessing some sort of glitch in my phone perhaps? I dunno. But it seems to be working correctly now.
The really weird thing is that TFT PID always showed degrees F and somewhat matched my mechanical gauge.
I wouldn't go so far as to say TP is the best OBDII app out there - I say I prefer what it does, in the way it does it, with my hardware and vehicle... for daily driving. When I go into troubleshooting mode, it's FORScan all the way. If I used my iPhony for monitoring the truck on normal drives, I'd dig a little deeper into other apps... since TP and Apple are not on speaking terms.
Is this still your view or have you found any other apps you like more? I would like to purchase an app to monitor my 6.0. I am currently using ScanGaugeII.
For daily driving, it's Torque Pro. I am constantly finding new things to monitor (when I have time), and the 6.0L has far more stuff to look at than our 7.3L.
FORScan kicks AE's *** for ease of use and sampling speed with the OBDII adapters I have. However... I do like the overlapping graphing of AE, vs. the side-by-side graphing of FORScan. I have to download the FS logs to get good graphing with a spreadsheet.
HP and Tq are not going to be really accurate, but if your way off of be looking at your vehicle profile . Make sure your trucks weight is accurate .
and don't take those readings as actual fact.
To be honest, I never use those "features" in Torque Pro. I use only what a sensor can tell me - just the facts ma'am. Things like Torque, HP, coolant temperature (automatic transmission), and fuel economy do not have the sensors available on the PCM to give a direct reading. They instead infer a "best guess", based on input from what sensor are available. If you are reading 625 foot/pounds of torque, then that is 25% above stock - for the flywheel. One has to ask if that torque is flywheel or rear wheel, and how did it arrive at that number? If this really worked, it would put a lot of dyno companies out of business.
To be honest, I never use those "features" in Torque Pro. I use only what a sensor can tell me - just the facts ma'am. Things like Torque, HP, coolant temperature (automatic transmission), and fuel economy do not have the sensors available on the PCM to give a direct reading. They instead infer a "best guess", based on input from what sensor are available. If you are reading 625 foot/pounds of torque, then that is 25% above stock - for the flywheel. One has to ask is that torque is flywheel or rear wheel, and how did it arrive at that number? If this really worked, it would put a lot of dyno companies out of business.
Well, I do have stage 2 intake, 4 inch turbo back exh, upgraded turbo compressor to 4 inch with aggressive wheel, and an old tuner set on tow mode. So, not stock. Have fuel upgrades to do, but need to redo my injector cups first. Diesel in the coolant, and did them wrong the first time, should a watched the YouTube video all the way through....will increase fuel pressure once this is done, no need to send even more fuel to the coolant reservoir...
I plan to buy and install phpdevices for egt, trans temp, fuel pressure, coolant temp, and maybe find a sensor to read fuel in the tank, or convert the analog signal to digital, hoping php has something.
Also upgrade to a hydra tuner, my SCT is no longer supported by SCT, so no custom tunes for me.
I am curious as to why you would want to duplicate so many sensors that already exist in the truck. The only thing I can come up with is for the purpose of logging, but some of those (like fuel level) go beyond even my OCD factor.
I think I have an injector cup link in my signature. I've done a number of them with great success, even though I screwed just one up because I didn't seat the cup low enough. I remember seeing a video of a notorious 7.3L mechanic chanting "clean, clean, clean" while he shot brake cleaner into the holes. That's not clean... that's rinsed.
What sensors do we have that I don't need to duplicate? My fuel gauge is incorrect, fuel light goes on and if I'm not a few miles from fuel, I'm on the side of the road stuck......would like to calculate a good mpg, as I tow everyday, mostly. Yeah, I didn't clean properly, oil and locktite don't mix as u know. I'd like to view all I can digitally, can you lead me in the right direction please.
If your fuel gauge is wrong, it is most likely the sender that's having a problem, not the gauge. Hooking up another device to the same sender will yield the same results. I'm not suggesting you add a whole new fuel sender for the sake of having an aftermarket fuel gauge - but it sounds like you are a prime candidate to do the Hutch/Harpoon mod and look into the fuel sender fail while you're in there.
I have fuel pressure and dual EGT gauges because those sensors don't exist in the truck and they are crucial at this age - modified or not. The rest of my gauges are all from the OBDII port, because Ford uses better sensors than I would want to buy aftermarket.
Yeah, I have it planned to do the hutch/harpoon mod. I have riffraff banjo bolts, and ccv deletes to install but waiting to redo the cups....no point in allowing more fuel and wasting more into the coolant. Any other sensors I might want to have? Also going to go to the 1.0 turbine housing.
With total respect and the desire to be of help - the CCV delete is a step in the wrong direction as far as I'm concerned, and I am completely confused as to the reasoning behind so many people choosing this. Many people who go through the hassle to delete the CCV go through even more hassle to put it back.
Again with respect - banjo bolts have a huge hole in them, and I have heard no evidence from anybody anywhere that larger ones enhance anything. Now... the check valve is a different matter - that opening feeding the whole fuel rail is inky-dinky. Upgrading a banjo valve is like replacing the kitchen faucet when it's the aerator that's causing the issue.
12-24-2016, 04:46 PM
