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I had my dash apart to install a radio. Didn't really mess with e-brake. Got it all put back together and light on dash is on. Where should I start to fix this? Is the switch with two wires hooked to the e-brake the only way the light can come on? I have worked it manually with no luck. Any suggestions?
You can unplug the micro switch on the pedal assembly and the dash light should go out. If it does not, then it is being grounded at another location in which case you will have to hunt for it.
Found it. I got a reverse signal from the plug under the master cylinder. (Black with pink stripe if you need to know). Anyway I also wired in a switch so I could operate the reverse camera when ever I wanted as well as cme on automatically with the gear selector being put in reverse. Problem was the switch I used was a illuminated switch that required a ground,source& feed. When I put truck in reverse it grounded out the hot leg and blew a fuse,resulting in brake light coming on, no seat warmers and no reverse camera working. It would still work the reverse camera on command with the switch. I unhooked the ground from the toggle switch and all works as it should. No illumination on the toggle switch but I can live with that. Odd you think?
Make sure you fix it, and not just unplug and forget it.
Why? Well, if the ecm doesn't see the e-brake on, then it will never raise the idle during a cold start warm up. Also, the AIH will never activate, assuming you still have it. E-brake on is a required condition for either of these things, even if all other criteria are met.
Well, if the ecm doesn't see the e-brake on, then it will never raise the idle during a cold start warm up. Also, the AIH will never activate, assuming you still have it. E-brake on is a required condition for either of these things, even if all other criteria are met.
Are you sure about this? My parking brake light has not worked since I bought the truck two years ago (it worked intermittently at first) and I have diagnosed the switch as bad. Mine still high idles when it's supposed to. But it is an automatic.
Are you sure about this? My parking brake light has not worked since I bought the truck two years ago (it worked intermittently at first) and I have diagnosed the switch as bad. Mine still high idles when it's supposed to. But it is an automatic.
Mine is a Zf6 manual. I don't know if it matters, vs an A/T. My connector is loose/bad, and when the light doesn't come on, I don't get high idle. When I wiggle the connector and get the light on, the high idle works.
FAQ: What is the real purpose of the intake heater, and when does Ford say it will operate normally?
"To reduce white smoke during long idle periods at low ambient temperatures, the PCM will activate the intake air heater. Specific conditions must be present before the heater is activated: "
• ambient temperature must be below 0 deg C (32 deg F)
• engine oil temperature must be below 55 deg C (131 deg F)
• vehicle power must be between 11.8 and 15 volts
• parking brake must be applied on manual transmission vehicles
• the transmission must be on park or neutral on automatic transmission vehicles
• glow plugs must be off
I think this is actually from Rifraff's web site. It has been quoted on these forums often.
I guess the auto trucks rely on the transmission range sensor instead, whereas the manual trucks DO need that e-brake light to function.
I'm guessing maybe the high idle criteria would also be the same, as far as e-brake (stick) vs park/neutral (auto).