So the ignition control module is not a possible cause..?
Also when I was under the column , when I was trying to find out where and which was the hot wire going into the white box , I hooked my multi tester to two different thicker yellow cables one at a time and then the other negative lead to the metal bracket that the E brake is mounted to , to get a good ground , One yellow wire was in the switch to pick up a hot connect when switch was activated I'm assuming , so it showed nothing on the volt meter and the other yellow wire did show a constant 12 volts or more , in just checking those wire with them grounded right there on that bracket , could that have blown my ecm or pcm , or both ...? please man help me , Ill pay you for your time,,,!!

 

All three large yellow wire are the power source for the Ignition switch.
One yellow wire is powered by fuse "P".
One yellow wire is powered by fuse "N".
One yellow wire is powered by fuse "J".

Your Black ICM (ignition control module) very seldom goes bad but it just controls the spark and has nothing to do with fuel system.

A loading test light might be a better tool to use when working with these circuits.



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We got it fixed , been driving it around about the last 2 hours , thank you Jesus and Subford. Found out that it was the tank selector switch on the trim panel , one side was still on the trim panel that made the complete circuit.I plugged it in and the truck turned over 2 times and fired up , I heard the fuel pump kick on and was very loud , I knew it was solved when that fuel pump kicked on...lol . I had went and purchased a spark tester and it was throwing a good hot spark so then I figured it was just fuel related only , then I had went on a cause for no voltage to the fuel pump, and bam , right in my face was the open tank selector switch hanging in my face beside the light **** . I'm so happy I could do a back flip. thanks all you guys and especially Subford and Rikil...!!

 

Does the check engine light come on, when you turn the key on?