Spark plug upgrade.

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Jan 29, 2016 | 04:31 PM

#16

PRIMERED79 SHORT BED

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Laughing Gas

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron94150

The motorcraft plugs are not crappy. And the stock coil is very sufficient. If you do the "six liter" tune up, you may see some benefits, but probably not enough to feel a difference from the factory coil. It will keep up with more rpm than the stock motor will turn.

Whats the "six liter" tune up?

Jan 29, 2016 | 05:32 PM

#17

Shadow944795

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Quote:

Originally Posted by PRIMERED79 SHORT BED

Whats the "six liter" tune up?

Plugs wires, dizzy cap, rotor, new coil, plus a small bump in the timing of the engine from 10 degrees BTDC to 12 degrees BTDC.

Jan 29, 2016 | 05:36 PM

#18

Ron94150

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From: Maryville, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by PRIMERED79 SHORT BED

Whats the "six liter" tune up?

It's a bump in the ignition timing, opening up and side gapping the plugs, better wires, and a hotter coil. It's named after a member on another forum. Use the search function and search six liter tune up link, go down to the thread that says six liter tune up. Every time I try to copy the link, my phone freezes and kicks me off. This is where you need the hotter aftermarket coil, to bridge that larger gap, or when you have a built motor that turns 7-8 grand. Back when we dirt track raced the 2300's, we were running stock coils on motors that were turning 9500 rpm every lap, it had no problem keeping up. I can promise on a stock motor, with a normally gapped plug, you will see absolutely no gain.

Edit: notice the plugs used in the six liter tune up.

Jan 29, 2016 | 05:36 PM

#19

Shadow944795

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk

Yes, I was asking you.
It's been a couple of years since my issue with 25's, but my experience was enough to dissuade me.
(Nothing like doing a tuneup, and tearing your hair out figuring why it now runs like $#!+)

I think QC May of gotten better about bad plugs like that over the past few years. I may get a fresh set of plugs for my car in the next few weeks (302 small block in it) and see if I get any bad ones or if i get all good plugs.

Jan 29, 2016 | 05:44 PM

#20

Ron94150

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From: Maryville, TN

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63592
Try this

Jan 29, 2016 | 06:09 PM

#21

PRIMERED79 SHORT BED

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Jan 2012

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron94150

ignition upgrade and timing bump (no 56K) - FSB Forums
Try this

That's exactly what I want to do.
Just need to remember to gap at .55t, I'm pretty sure I'm already running 12* timing so I can skip that part.

Jan 29, 2016 | 06:11 PM

#22

PRIMERED79 SHORT BED

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Laughing Gas

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Compare - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
I'm thinking about trying the NGK plugs, but what heat range would be best for a stock 302/

Jan 29, 2016 | 06:23 PM

#23

thehead406

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Joined: Sep 2015

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I followed the six litre tune up to the letter on my 94 5.0. It's not even the same motor runs a hundred percent better. Although due to the cold, the timing bump and winter fuel it starts a little harder.

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Jan 29, 2016 | 08:31 PM

#24

Ron94150

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From: Maryville, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by PRIMERED79 SHORT BED

Compare - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
I'm thinking about trying the NGK plugs, but what heat range would be best for a stock 302/

A little colder plug might be better, but a stock plug should be fine if your only at 12*. Some people push towards 14-14.5*. You need to actually check to see if it is at 12(that's the entire purpose for opening the gap), then if you want to push it, advance .5* at a time. Driving the vehicle to check for pinging. When it pings, back it back off. Like already said, the farther you advance, the harder to start. A good battery will help.

Jan 29, 2016 | 08:43 PM

#25

Ron94150

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From: Maryville, TN

I forgot to mention, I believe the original six liter tune up called for side gapping the plugs. YouTube it.

Jan 29, 2016 | 08:51 PM

#26

Tedster9

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From: Waterloo, Iowa

Check the ground strap electrode on the plugs, this indicates the proper heat range, or not. Race engines need a colder plug, or maybe a stock engine on extended summertime highway runs. It ideally will show a color change about halfway up.

When I started looking into plug reading was surprised to see that the porcelain isn't really what matters. Or not the only thing that matters anyway. The base ring shows jetting. Light gray is OK. Ignition timing will affect how hot a plug gets. The idea with plug heat range is one where the porcelain gets hot enough to burn off deposits, though no more.

You can open up the gap pretty far, but remember electricity is lazy and always seeks the easiest path to ground. Higher compression, leaner mixtures and greater gaps will increase the voltage required, watch for crossfire and arcing if the plugs and wires and cap are not in good shape it really will show any weakness in the secondary or high tension part of the ignition.

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