1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

gear indicator problems

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Old 01-27-2016, 10:36 PM
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gear indicator problems

ok so i just bought an 84 4X4 f150 today with a C6 auto everything works on the inside except for the indash gear indicator how hard is that to fix? i'm ordering a new lever rubber thing and pin because its needing that really bad because it has a lot of play in the lever. is there anything else i need to order to go from the steering column to the dash or is everything in the dash? i really need to get this fixed because its kinda annoying going down the road in 2nd gear and not realizing it haha. thanks for any help in advance
 
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:52 PM
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The gear indicator is controlled by a tiny cable running through a plastic sheath that connects on the column. You can access the connection point by removing the plastic sleeve on your column via a screw on the bottom side. -long story short; those plastic sheaths get brittle and break. So the cable won't move right. I was able to fix mine with heat shrink tubing. But you may get lucky and be able to find one at your dealer for under $15.
 
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Old 01-28-2016, 12:12 AM
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If yours isn't repairable, LMC have the whole unit.........Item 4


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A few years ago they had them for about $19
 
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Old 01-28-2016, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Xwarrior86
The gear indicator is controlled by a tiny cable running through a plastic sheath that connects on the column. You can access the connection point by removing the plastic sleeve on your column via a screw on the bottom side. -long story short; those plastic sheaths get brittle and break. So the cable won't move right. I was able to fix mine with heat shrink tubing. But you may get lucky and be able to find one at your dealer for under $15.
Translation; A piece of string inside plastic tubing. It's not much of a setup but a lot of OEM's used it.
 
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken Blythen
If yours isn't repairable, LMC have the whole unit.........Item 4


Truck Parts and Truck Accessories


A few years ago they had them for about $19
How many years ago was that?? Cause I'm seeing a steep price of 84 dollars! I'm just gonna hope and pray that mine is fix able!!!

And also what would cause both my rear blinkers to blink when I turn them on? Its only the rear ones that do it and my break lights don't work and running lghts don't work because of it.Would it be something in the blinker switch that's screwed up or maybe a connection that's not wired quite right? Everything was supposed to work before the previous owner had a bunch of work done to the breaks.
 
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Old 01-29-2016, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by fordguy98
How many years ago was that??
I think 7-8 years ago for the C6 version (AOD ones were more expensive). What about a scrap yard?
 
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Old 01-29-2016, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by fordguy98
How many years ago was that?? Cause I'm seeing a steep price of 84 dollars! I'm just gonna hope and pray that mine is fix able!!!

And also what would cause both my rear blinkers to blink when I turn them on? Its only the rear ones that do it and my break lights don't work and running lghts don't work because of it.Would it be something in the blinker switch that's screwed up or maybe a connection that's not wired quite right? Everything was supposed to work before the previous owner had a bunch of work done to the breaks.
The turnsignal switch is a common denominator for the turns and the brake lights.
 
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Old 01-29-2016, 10:58 AM
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I have posted on this in the past and have been successful in many cases on repairing these. You can simply purchase a new one as noted prior, but if you are daring, then this is how it goes. You will need jewelry wire (from Joanns) or similar place, crimps (from hobby store) the ones used for steering on remote control cars. Take the unit out and inspect the plastic sleeve. If repair is needed, then shrink wrap it first, then I add a little electrical tape to stiffen it. Make a loop and crimp it for the part by the spring in the indicator. Run the jewelry wire through the unit and leave plenty of slack. Install the end piece on the column. With the key turned on, move the shifter to the Drive "D." Put the other crimp on the the wire. Leave the end piece loose enough to move it, but not too loose. Wrap the wire around the connection button and slide it through the crimp to make a loop. Now, pull the tension to move the indicator to the "D." Be sure you have a little adjustment in both directions as you will need it. Once it is on the "D", crimp it. Put it into park and then back to drive. Make the adjustment by the column to where you like it. Worst case is that you try again.
 
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Old 01-30-2016, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
The turnsignal switch is a common denominator for the turns and the brake lights.
OK so I got the blinkers to work after a ton of cutting and splicing the wires in the rear end but my break lights still ain't working. I have all the wires hooked up right I'm pretty sure because my blinkers are working properly now and the running lights come on. I'm thinking it's the break light switch on the break pedal. What do y'all think?? Anyway I can check the switch to see if it's working or not? I checked all the fueses and their all good
 
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Old 01-30-2016, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by bcamill
I have posted on this in the past and have been successful in many cases on repairing these. You can simply purchase a new one as noted prior, but if you are daring, then this is how it goes. You will need jewelry wire (from Joanns) or similar place, crimps (from hobby store) the ones used for steering on remote control cars. Take the unit out and inspect the plastic sleeve. If repair is needed, then shrink wrap it first, then I add a little electrical tape to stiffen it. Make a loop and crimp it for the part by the spring in the indicator. Run the jewelry wire through the unit and leave plenty of slack. Install the end piece on the column. With the key turned on, move the shifter to the Drive "D." Put the other crimp on the the wire. Leave the end piece loose enough to move it, but not too loose. Wrap the wire around the connection button and slide it through the crimp to make a loop. Now, pull the tension to move the indicator to the "D." Be sure you have a little adjustment in both directions as you will need it. Once it is on the "D", crimp it. Put it into park and then back to drive. Make the adjustment by the column to where you like it. Worst case is that you try again.
Would it be worth it to try and fix the old unit or do you think it'd be better to find a new one or a used one for fairly cheap?
 
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Old 01-30-2016, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken Blythen
I think 7-8 years ago for the C6 version (AOD ones were more expensive). What about a scrap yard?
I'll have to check out a scrap yard to see if I can find one if all else fails
 
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Old 01-30-2016, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by fordguy98
OK so I got the blinkers to work after a ton of cutting and splicing the wires in the rear end but my break lights still ain't working. I have all the wires hooked up right I'm pretty sure because my blinkers are working properly now and the running lights come on. I'm thinking it's the break light switch on the break pedal. What do y'all think?? Anyway I can check the switch to see if it's working or not? I checked all the fueses and their all good
Go buy a testlight. Harbor Freight has them for a reasonable price. Take the test light and poke each side of the brake switch down on the brake pedal arm, they should be green wires. One side should light up the testlight, even if the key is off. If it doesn't, check the fuse. If it does, then move the testlight to the other green wire and then push the pedal. When the pedal is pushed, the testlight should light up. If it doesn't, replace the switch.

Inspect the wires also. These wires move around near the switch and sometimes they can get caught and break.
 
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Old 02-02-2016, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Go buy a testlight. Harbor Freight has them for a reasonable price. Take the test light and poke each side of the brake switch down on the brake pedal arm, they should be green wires. One side should light up the testlight, even if the key is off. If it doesn't, check the fuse. If it does, then move the testlight to the other green wire and then push the pedal. When the pedal is pushed, the testlight should light up. If it doesn't, replace the switch.

Inspect the wires also. These wires move around near the switch and sometimes they can get caught and break.
I replaced the brake light switch and thier working sort of now. They don't come on when I push the brake pedal but if I push it all the way in the let it out slightly they'll come on but that does me no good because I need them to come on the instant I start to push the pedal down. I don't get what's wrong!! Help!!
 
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