That sucks nathan. Anything can work but the hard part is how much work it is to make it fit. I wouldn't be surprised if Brad has some insight on the matter. Plus you get a stronger chassis too. Last year I saw a rolling chassis at a mom and pop salvage yard on the way to cultas lake. I'll see if it's still there

 

All stories that start with, 'I know a guy.....' make me skeptical.

How ever that being said I expect skepticism on this one.

I know a guy that says 300 cad to fix the frame. I sent photos before getting a price. I asked if he would do the other side too. He said no, I said how about another 300. He said heck yes see you Tuesday next week.

So I am sure there is a lot to be worried about however; it's cracked and I need it fixed.

Problem is when the bed is off it is going to be hard not to go 'guns and ammo' on this sucker.

Bare minimum is spring mounts and brake lines right? Oh and cleaning the heck out of it then prime and paint.......

Oh crap...

 

With the truck headed towards a fab shop I am pulling everything apart. I would like to eliminate the extra wiring from the PO.

Can some one please post a photo up under the dash showing where the power door lock module and connectors are?

Thanks

 

Turns out removing airbags is easy. 13 bolts broke. 2 drilled out. 1 success! Not bad out of 16. Took about 45 min

Now just got to get her to the frame shop. And order the leaf springs and parts.




Crack....

 

So the process has started. I am helping out by making as many parts as I can.

The plan is to get some soft ride 5 leaf springs and reinstall the air bags for the camper. The springs will have 4" of lift to eliminate some of the blocks. I may install traction bars at some point.

The air bags are off and I plan to make the plate to reinforce the frame. How big should I make it? Should I remove the shock mounts sway bar mounts and overload spring mounts and run it through? Should it go to the spring mounts? I am thinking of using 3/16 mild steel to make the plate. I am hoping to learn something here.

 

3/16 should work. I'd go at least 8 inches on each side of that nasty break. That frame should be pulled together to eliminate the crack before a plate is welded on. As bad as that is I'd probably plate both sides.

 

I will definitely go at least 8" each side of break. I don't want to remove the shock mounts leaf spring hangers etc. But it is probably the right thing to do.

Which means removing the bed....

 

In the middle of repairing the frame and had a thought.

If the odometer comes to life when I slowly turn the key and then dies right before koeo is my ignition the source of the problems?

 

First step is done. Next grind and weld inside frame. Finally plate and weld.

While it was apart I replaced all the rear brake components. Need to make one cable guide for parking brake cable. The wheels will be off again soon for the final frame repairs which will involve removing the shock mounts and a few other things.

I need to move my tail pipe back and toward the center of the truck. Not sure how much of the 38gal tank will be pounded in.

Thanks for reading!

Is my ignition switch my dash power problem?

 

I replaced the ignition switch and the problem persists. The maxi fuses have a bit of rainbow coloring on them. I swapped a few around and the condition did not change.

I am thinking of running a jumper cable from the ground by the parking brake to the negative terminal on the battery.

I am grasping at straws. I did notice the relays at the power distribution box get quite warm.

 

The gauges have power at pin13 on both connectors. Ground checks out on pin 3 and 7 connector 1

Ground on connector 2 pins 9 and 1 are open.

Ground on speedo pink wire is open. Anyone know where they go?

 

Cleaned and tested all fuses today. Next I am going to pull the radio and have a look in there as I see some but splice connectors and they seem to fail.

I still have not found where the dedicated grounds for the gauges goes.

 

Yesterday I had a few minutes before starting work so I tested power at the radio connector, all good. Then I tested the grounds. OK but not that great. So tonight I had a few minutes and pulled the passenger kick panel. I didn't have my phone to take a photo. There was paint and a ground strap, but no metal. As soon as I touched it there was a puff of rust and dust. I got the wires cleaned and reattached further up. Voila radio works and gauges work.

So I have learned that the dash grounds to both sides of the truck. My cab is really poor shape. Bummer.

 

Glad you got that figured out finally!! Electrical gremlins are always the worst to track down...

 

Yes it is nice in a way but now I know what the bigger problem is!