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I have a F350 made mid 2000 that lost a cylinder, my thought was to replace the engine so I have less down time.
I picked up an engine today, BUT it was made 02/06/98 and yes it was out off a 99 super duty.
And some quick research on site show the turbo is smaller, and has AB injector as the 2 major things.
Can I run that engine in my truck and or what do I need to make it run?
I did see people do it the other way around, but not the way I need to run it.
Thanks.
So your assuming the AB s are good? Id be getting new ones to replace mine, then send the AB s in as cores, and keep your old ones as spares. When you have the cash pay to test them and keep the good ones. Its not much to have them tested as well if you want to keep yours. But I bet you know more about yours than you know about the ABs, so you could be going worse.
That motor will be just fine. It will have forged rods, and can be swapped over to a late 99 with little effort.
Use your current turbo and pedestal, you'll need new plenums as the e99 had smaller inlets, you'll also need new up pipes (Doemans will do). Add injectors of your choice and new glow plugs.
Update sensors as needed, based on the quality of the drop in motor, rebuild the Oil cooler, replace the LPOP and the water pump. You can swap it all over in a day with the motor out of the truck.
Basically, all 7.3 blocks are the same from 94-03.
The 2/98 engine will be an E99. I recommend swapping the intake plenums, turbo pedestal, turbo, 5-way plenum, etc from your old engine. You'll want to upgrade to bellowed up-pipes as a matter of course (your stock up-pipes will leak if they don't now). I prefer Dorman up-pipes ($170 or less and lifetime warranty).
Swap the HPOP as Frank recommended.
The AB injectors are fine. They are a little smaller, but you'll never know the difference.
Check injector hold-down bolts and rocker arm bolts to insure they are all tight.
Either do the $0.50 mod (or my $0.52 mod ) or replace the VC's with Dorman's (they have integrated UVCH's and lifetime warranty).
You won't be able to use ELC coolant, the E99 cups are not compatible. Remove the block drains before installing the engine and re-install them loosely. You'll want to do a full coolant flush on your 'new' engine and its MUCH easier to get those plugs out now.
If you have time and budget, I would consider rebuilding the fuel bowl, the turbo pedestal (or do EBPV delete),the turbo and the oil cooler 'while you're in there'.
If I think of something else, I'll post it later! Good luck!
Oh yeah, clean and paint that sucker.
All you need for the block, VC's, oil pan, etc is plain 'ole enamel. I like the rustoleum 2x products. I use VHT Flameproof (2000*) on exhaust manifolds, up-pipes and turbo exhaust housings.
What Jason said then your in like flint. Personally I'd send the injectors in for testing. Not much now and easy to replace when out.
Meh, it depends on the mileage and if you know any history about the engine. I'd roll the dice on something that 'ran good when wrecked'. Mostly because I don't trust the injector rebuilders much...
Maybe get a set of o-rings and pull/inspect the injectors? But, I can swap injectors in a couple hours. If I was on a budget, that's what I'd do (new o-rings at most). Otherwise, $1200 or so gets you a set of fresh rebuilds with a lifetime warranty. Bench testing costs $175+ shipping and o-rings and then you've gotta deal with the hustle of someone telling you ya might as well rebuild them anyway...
I will take the turbo and all the intakes down to the heads, the up-pipes already have the upgraded, replace the lpop, rebuild oil cooler and I guess pull the injectors and give them new o-ring.
I have Rotella ELC coolant, but cups not compatible, right! What coolant do I use or replace the cups as it will be easier with the engine out.
I will take the turbo and all the intakes down to the heads, the up-pipes already have the upgraded, replace the lpop, rebuild oil cooler and I guess pull the injectors and give them new o-ring.
I have Rotella ELC coolant, but cups not compatible, right! What coolant do I use or replace the cups as it will be easier with the engine out.
There is no easier time to do injector cups than with the heads on the bench. The second easiest time is when the whole engine is on a stand. Now would be the time to do them, especially since the cost is pretty low.
) or replace the VC's with Dorman's (they have integrated UVCH's and lifetime warranty).
