Adjustable tappets
#1
#2
First of all, why are you going with adjustables? There can be many good reasons, just curious. The best system of all is the stock lifters, as long as they are in good shape.
Not sure what you mean by "mechanical adjustable"?
The concern with any new adjustables is whether they have required hardness on the cam surface. Red's Headers is selling some that I've heard nothing but good about. There is a guy who is selling "NOS" Johnsons on eBay, they are suspicious. I am using a set of his with good results, but a couple of them are not as tight as I'd expect. Sealed Power makes some that are heavier than Johnsons, I have not heard anything bad about them. Sealed Power owns the Johnson name and equipment, and AFAIK still sells the original hollow type.
Not sure what you mean by "mechanical adjustable"?
The concern with any new adjustables is whether they have required hardness on the cam surface. Red's Headers is selling some that I've heard nothing but good about. There is a guy who is selling "NOS" Johnsons on eBay, they are suspicious. I am using a set of his with good results, but a couple of them are not as tight as I'd expect. Sealed Power makes some that are heavier than Johnsons, I have not heard anything bad about them. Sealed Power owns the Johnson name and equipment, and AFAIK still sells the original hollow type.
#3
<a href="http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/rayutenis/media/IMG_3713_zpsisxyttpa.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah92/rayutenis/IMG_3713_zpsisxyttpa.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_3713_zpsisxyttpa.jpg"/></a>
Here's why I am replacing all mine, the valve stem punched/wore a hole in the lifter. I am going all adjustable and also doing a complete overhaul since I have the motor out and on a stand.
This wasn't the only lifter, 3 others were worn to the point of replacement, i.e.; dimpled on the top .030-.050 of an inch!
Here's why I am replacing all mine, the valve stem punched/wore a hole in the lifter. I am going all adjustable and also doing a complete overhaul since I have the motor out and on a stand.
This wasn't the only lifter, 3 others were worn to the point of replacement, i.e.; dimpled on the top .030-.050 of an inch!
#4
I saw your lifter in another thread. That engine was severely abused; to punch thru I'd guess it had a stuck valve, and it was run anyway. No way it's wear from normal use. Here's some lifters from a similar situation. You can see the one that isn't punched is not worn significantly. The valves that were stuck/sticking had to be torched out of the block they were so rusty.
#5
#6
If you are planning to spin your engine up into 6,000 RPM territory, the hollow are better. They are much lighter than the solid lifters, but the lightest lifter ever is the stock lifter. Here is a comparison of weights a guy on the Ford Barn did. I believe what Red's sells is the FlatAttack hollows, at least he used to. The Sealed Power "solid with a swirl cast in" are fine for street engines, and about half the price of hollows.
Original grind to fit Ford lifter, 45.1 g.
Old style Johnson hollow adjustable, 81.9 g.
Replacement Johnson, solid with a swirl cast in, 111.1 g.
Replacement solid with a groove cast in, as found in tractors. 117.5 g.
New Manufactured Flatattackracing. 79 g.
This is the "tractor-style" solid lifter
Original grind to fit Ford lifter, 45.1 g.
Old style Johnson hollow adjustable, 81.9 g.
Replacement Johnson, solid with a swirl cast in, 111.1 g.
Replacement solid with a groove cast in, as found in tractors. 117.5 g.
New Manufactured Flatattackracing. 79 g.
This is the "tractor-style" solid lifter
#7
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#8
#9
#10
Ross, I honestly don't remember. Maybe they do. Still no picnic with my sausage fingers....The adjusters were VERY tight, as they should be. I had to clamp the lifters in the vise(soft jaws) to turn them.
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