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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 05:12 PM
  #61  
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Main stud: 154-5003, rod bolts: 150-6004, head bolts: 154-3603.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 10:05 PM
  #62  
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None of those are torque to yield, I'm pretty sure. Honestly, I don't know of any ARP that are TTY. Aside from being stronger, that's definitely one of the big appeals to them.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 02:34 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by ol'blue77
Main stud: 154-5003, rod bolts: 150-6004, head bolts: 154-3603.
BTW, the 154-5003 are bolts, not studs. Nothing wrong with them but the machining may be a little different for the shop. The PSI ratings and tightening torque are different too.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 11:39 PM
  #64  
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Yes I meant main stud bolts. the arches that hold the crankshaft in the block are called main studs right? Or just mains?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 11:42 PM
  #65  
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Also, if you know, what are torque to yield bolts exactly? And how are their applications different from regular bolts
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 11:46 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ol'blue77
Yes I meant main stud bolts. the arches that hold the crankshaft in the block are called main studs right? Or just mains?
Main caps for the arch. Mains for the journal usually.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 11:52 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by ol'blue77
Also, if you know, what are torque to yield bolts exactly? And how are their applications different from regular bolts
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque-to-yield_fastener

A TTY is not re-usable once tightened after the first use because it has permanently stretched. Other non TTY hardware stretches but will retract back to it's normal length once loosened. The only way for any bolt or stud to hold something is to stretch a little but TTY will not retract back typically.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2001...rque-to-angle/

I don't know why the OEM's started using TTY bolts and hardware. I haven't read up on why they made the switch but this article looks interesting. It looks like going further to the threshold of what a fastener can hold.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 01:37 PM
  #68  
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The Engine Builder article is a good one, other than the second last paragraph which seems like a bunch of malarkey.

They have a lot of good articles on the Engine Builder site.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 07:10 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Beanscoot
The Engine Builder article is a good one, other than the second last paragraph which seems like a bunch of malarkey.
Agreed. I've NEVER heard that about only being left with one torquing remaining.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 10:12 PM
  #70  
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Yeah that sounded like chinese to me. But the rest of the article made sense. I don't know where I saw that the ARP bolts I bought said don't torque down twice. I re-read the instructions and it says nothing about reusing them. Who knows maybe i dreamed it.

Anyway, ARP makes a accessory bolt kit that has every bolt I need so far except timing cover and internal bolts. The kit is like $90 and head bolts by themselves are $75 and oil pan bolts are $30. So obviously going this route is cheaper. Would there be any variation in the kit than just buying the bolts by themselves? Another reason why I would buy the kit is it comes with bolts you can't get by themselves from arp like water neck and fuel pump bolts. The number for the kit is 554-9803 if you want to check it out. I found more info on ebay listings and summit than on ARP's website.

Personal opinion on what you would get... im painting the block bright ford blue. Would this look better with stainless steel bolts or the black chromoly?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 11:27 PM
  #71  
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That kit doesn't include the head bolts, it includes header bolts. It's an accessory kit which is all the nickle and dime bolts that most people don't think about. It may be worth it but you'll have to get head bolts separate. The kit did get a bad review on Summit. ARP has bulk bolts which you can get for those particular parts. I still stand by the ARP kit for the timing cover and water pump from Late Model Restoration.

The black are stronger, that would be my decision. Only because of that.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 11:40 PM
  #72  
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Oh gotcha. header bolts. I read too fast sometimes. The only thing I'm sort of worried about is timing cover and water pump bolts. I have power steering so it interferes with how long of a bolt i need in certain spots but I'll worry about that when the time comes
 
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 12:49 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by ol'blue77
The only thing I'm sort of worried about is timing cover and water pump bolts. I have power steering so it interferes with how long of a bolt i need in certain spots but I'll worry about that when the time comes
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8501BHDW/19...er-Studs-Bolts

You can only get this kit here.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 10:23 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Justin Jones
Oh sweet. Personally I hate studs but they would work better for the timing cover/water pump with the alternator and power steering. I can't remember if the a/c compressor interferes with that. I think the support just bolts on the head.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 10:58 AM
  #75  
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There may be some minor differences in the bolt set ups between an older motor and the newer 5.0 type but still most of the bolts you need are in one kit. They do have 3 kits on the site but the one I linked is the most complete.
 
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