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I don't know how I could swap pistons from probe. If I can't do that then I'll probably try selling mine and buying .03 pistons. if i can somehow get 60cc gt40p heads, and use a .047 compressed gasket I could get 10.38:1 ratio with .06 pistons. doing that with 4.03 pistons i can get a 10.27:1 ratio.
Or maybe try that dealer you got them from. I didn't think of that earlier. Yeah, with those specs, I get ~10.21:1. Here is a pic of the cylinder head information that I have. It's just by chance that you get what you get as far as the chamber size due to production tolerances and casting processes.
Sometimes i think i would be better off going with gt40 heads but really you get what you get with them so I don't think getting gt40 heads is going to help. The dealer i got them from was a liquidator. I cant do returns or swaps with him. He already sold all of the .03 probes.
How I calculate deck clearance goes like this:
take half of the stroke: 3.5÷2=1.75 and add the piston height 1.75+1.772=3.522. add the rod length 3.522+5.956=9.478 then subtract this from the deck height 9.503-9.478=.025
I guess i'm going with gt40's getting the chambers smoothed out, thickest head gasket I can find, and I'm sure i can get a compression ratio under 10.4:1
If I get the block decked then that will take some off of the stroke therefore less compression. Probably not much. I would be able to calculate it if i knew how much they take off.
If I get the block decked then that will take some off of the stroke therefore less compression. Probably not much. I would be able to calculate it if i knew how much they take off.
I was wondering how you got the deck clearance which is just calculated. Your block my differ depending on if the decks have been trued before. If you do get them decked a little, it will increase your compression. You will decrease the deck clearance, not the stroke. I do recommended getting the decks trued up. But taken as little off as just to get them true.
The regular GT40 heads came with bigger chambers if you do decide to get them. Could probably get the compression around 10:1.
Check with Probe themselves on the pistons. I know Coast High Performance has been bought so they are operating again. You could try them as well.
Going based on how the surface of the block deck looked it hasn't been decked. I might be wrong. I know it has been rebuilt before because one of the Pistons was a stock replacement. It had some felpro head gaskets on it too. Do I need to measure it? Like take a precise measuring tool and see exactly how long the cylinder is? I know my dad has a tool that measures thousands of an inch but I don't know how long it can measure. Its a ford tool. It has a ford oval on it. If I can measure it do I measure the length of the cylinder or is it from the crank centerline to the deck?
No, I wouldn't worry about that at this point. It can be measured from the top of the piston to the deck. Using the center line of the piston from front to back, measure with a machinist straight edge across the deck then use feeler gauges to check the actual measurement. But I would wait until after it's decked.
If I would have got those ICON pistons you were talking about a long time ago, I would have right at a 10:1 compression ratio. It sucks probe doesn't make a piston with an 11cc head volume. Its either 4cc's or 15.9cc's. Which those 15.9cc pistons leave me with a 9.3:1 ratio.
Yes, they will shave a little off the ends of the caps and rehone them to the right size with the new bolts. You could try to sell the Probes and get something else. Like I said, you may try to call Coast High Performance or Probe themselves and ask them if they would exchange them for some .030 over. All they can do is tell you no. You wouldn't have lost anything.
It doesn't make sense to me. They torque the bolts down to hone them but I've been told you can't retorque modern bolts. It even says in arp's instructions. So It just doesn't make sense to me.
I'll figure something out with Pistons. I really wanted to use probes. Icons might be in line. I'll have to do research on them to see how heavy they weigh and such. Their compression height is 1.774 vs probes 1.772. I'll have to see how they work out but if not I'll have to just sell the ones I have now and get the same ones .03 over.
The shop is honing your block with your stock bolts? I thought you bought ARP head bolts? They will need to use those if that's the ones you plan on running in the final build.
The shop is honing your block with your stock bolts? I thought you bought ARP head bolts? They will need to use those if that's the ones you plan on running in the final build.
That's what I'm saying. If the shop uses my arp bolts that I bought and torques them down.... Doesn't that mean I can't reuse them when I take them off to put the rods back on the crank? That's what doesn't make sense to me. Even arp's instructions say don't torque the bolts down more than once.
Are you sure they are talking about the rod bolts? I have seen TTY head bolts but not rod bolts.
I know my main stud bolts are TTY. The rod bolts are what I'm talking about. They're in a plastic package and I didn't want to open it because if i do before I put them on, some of them will disappear. So I'm guessing they're not TTY. They don't have that thread locker stuff that the main stud bolts came with.