Should I use an 1985 year 12 volt battery charger to charge a new sear diehard?
#1
Should I use an 1985 year 12 volt battery charger to charge a new sear diehard?
I have an 1985 Sears 2/8 amp, 12 volt battery charge that I originally bought. I've only used it twice or so. It's been in the box in and looks to be in good shape. Should I used it to charge a totally dead Sears Platinum Diehard? This battery is completely sealed so no water to add.
Will the charger be OK to use and not burst the battery? Don't know how the gas can vent so that is my concern.
Regards
Larry
Will the charger be OK to use and not burst the battery? Don't know how the gas can vent so that is my concern.
Regards
Larry
#3
I figured it had to be vented, but I don't see anywhere to add water. Maybe I will take a closer look now.
Thanks,
Larry
#4
You say it's completely dead.
Most battery's will never come back from that.
How many amps and what group size is the battery?
Without a load test to tell you how dead your battery really is there's no way to know. (How long)
10 hours @ 10A = 100Ah.
Your best bet is to monitor temperature and voltage.
stop if the battery gets too warm or when it reaches 14V right after disconnecting the charger.
A healthy battery is about 12.5-6V at rest (hours after the charger is disconnected)
Most battery's will never come back from that.
How many amps and what group size is the battery?
Without a load test to tell you how dead your battery really is there's no way to know. (How long)
10 hours @ 10A = 100Ah.
Your best bet is to monitor temperature and voltage.
stop if the battery gets too warm or when it reaches 14V right after disconnecting the charger.
A healthy battery is about 12.5-6V at rest (hours after the charger is disconnected)
#5
Battery tested zero volts
I didn't drive my truck for two days and i tried this morning to start. It was the deadest I've ever seen a battery. Not even a clicking sound. I took the battery out and it tested zero.
I didn't think running it to zero would totally kill it. I have a three year warrantee on it.
Numbers on SearS DieHard Platinum say
930 CCA / 65
135 RC /50065
Regards,
Larry
I didn't think running it to zero would totally kill it. I have a three year warrantee on it.
Numbers on SearS DieHard Platinum say
930 CCA / 65
135 RC /50065
Regards,
Larry
#6
Will be fine on the 8 amp setting. You'd have to neglect the battery for a couple days or more to cause trouble.
It helps to monitor the voltage and keep an eye on things, though, and compare with the AGM battery charge chart at
http://www.batteryfaq.org
8 to 10 hours sounds about right. Even better, monitor the current. Remember it takes roughly two volts over the normal resting battery voltage to charge a battery. So it will start out with about 8 amps and very little voltage. Watch the voltage track the chart at the site linked. Pretty cool huh? As the battery charges the amps decline to just a fraction and the voltage tops out somewhere around 14.5 to 15.5 volts depending on temperature, battery is fully charged. Put it on a timer to be safe.
It helps to monitor the voltage and keep an eye on things, though, and compare with the AGM battery charge chart at
http://www.batteryfaq.org
8 to 10 hours sounds about right. Even better, monitor the current. Remember it takes roughly two volts over the normal resting battery voltage to charge a battery. So it will start out with about 8 amps and very little voltage. Watch the voltage track the chart at the site linked. Pretty cool huh? As the battery charges the amps decline to just a fraction and the voltage tops out somewhere around 14.5 to 15.5 volts depending on temperature, battery is fully charged. Put it on a timer to be safe.
#7
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#10
Maybe this time it will show up better.
Regards,
Larry
#11
#13
Systematic Way
Good luck with that, I hope you don't rely on this rig.
Wire a light or buzzer between the battery and the cable. Then start unplugging things systematically until the light/buzzer goes out.
Systematically? Ford uses the starter solenoid as a junction point start there, remove all the wires on the big post, if the light/buzzer goes out put each back until it comes back. Then find that in the wiring diagram to see where it goes. Then start disconnecting pieces of that circuit until the light buzzer goes out, etc. Likely it will end up at the fuse box, so pull each fuse until the light/buzzer goes out, etc.
Wire a light or buzzer between the battery and the cable. Then start unplugging things systematically until the light/buzzer goes out.
Systematically? Ford uses the starter solenoid as a junction point start there, remove all the wires on the big post, if the light/buzzer goes out put each back until it comes back. Then find that in the wiring diagram to see where it goes. Then start disconnecting pieces of that circuit until the light buzzer goes out, etc. Likely it will end up at the fuse box, so pull each fuse until the light/buzzer goes out, etc.
Regards,
Larry
#15