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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 12:00 PM
  #16  
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I would caution you to not reseal the injectors!(The oil side that is) Im guessing your truck now cranks fine? Then your injectors are NOT Leaking! This is not all that common and usually is a no start itself and usually is one injector seal that fails, Not all 8 injectors. Also the reason that ford doesnt offer the inner injector seal is because they are pretty much irreplaceable. The just go straight to leaking after replacement. Ive personally seen this 3 times with people that have put new oil seals then have to put all 8 injectors in because they though they fixed an issue. Keep in mind this is the seals that seal the HPO not the fuel side. The only real way to fix is with a new injector. DieselTechRon has videos of this and how people replace them thinking it is the issue but they just made another issue. I would just caution you to not go resealing these, because they probably are fine. If an injector seal was to go, its not just a slow leak over time. They seal against huge PSI 3000-4000. Im only saying this from what i have seen, there may be people that have success replacing them.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 03:57 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BigRedTed
I would caution you to not reseal the injectors!(The oil side that is) Im guessing your truck now cranks fine? Then your injectors are NOT Leaking! This is not all that common and usually is a no start itself and usually is one injector seal that fails, Not all 8 injectors. Also the reason that ford doesnt offer the inner injector seal is because they are pretty much irreplaceable. The just go straight to leaking after replacement. Ive personally seen this 3 times with people that have put new oil seals then have to put all 8 injectors in because they though they fixed an issue. Keep in mind this is the seals that seal the HPO not the fuel side. The only real way to fix is with a new injector. DieselTechRon has videos of this and how people replace them thinking it is the issue but they just made another issue. I would just caution you to not go resealing these, because they probably are fine. If an injector seal was to go, its not just a slow leak over time. They seal against huge PSI 3000-4000. Im only saying this from what i have seen, there may be people that have success replacing them.
I've never hear of that before! Anyone else experience this?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 04:35 PM
  #18  
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I have seen this opinion before. It is correct that the Ford injector seal kits don't come with the top o-ring. If you want a full set of seals order these (8ea):

Alliant G2.8 Injector Seal Kit
OEM Part #: 3C3Z9229AA, CM5055

To be honest, I think it's easy enough to see the seals that if they look ok I wouldn't sweat it, there is some logic behind leaving them alone. If you can see wear or crumbling of the seals I'd replace them. Much cheaper than a new injector and many have successfully replace the uppers with good results. Lube them up on install and before dropping the oil rail back on top of them.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 08:04 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Peace2Peep
I've never hear of that before! Anyone else experience this?
I haven't done it, but countless others have without issue. It takes time, finesse, and patience. I've resealed the HPO rail on my truck as well without issue. There are plenty of videos on it too, HHC Diesel sells the kit to do it as well.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 12:14 PM
  #20  
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I did mine a couple months ago. I had a leaky standpipe, so I updated them and while I was in there, I found a iffy oring on a couple injectors, so I went ahead and replaced them all with the kit Rusty listed above. Worst case, I can replace injectors if they fail but it's running great.
Hers a video out of the tech folder that might help.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ole-story.html
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 01:01 PM
  #21  
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I guess more people than I thought are having success with it. I can only speak from experience I guess.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 05:47 PM
  #22  
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Ted,
In the world of auto Tech's you are correct. Doing a job repeatedly and knowing the weak spots lets you calculate the odds on things. Being paid by the hour on jobs makes knowing those odds even more important. Just watching Diesel TechRon's videos for example, crank this out, wrap this around here out of the way, knock this loose and be sure to wipe this off before you put it back in. Boom, done! In my job in aviation it's take all this crap off to get to this, replace this, and that, and those too, clean this with alcohol, waive a chicken bone over that and then call an inspector to look at everything you just did. I once got a savings bond for suggesting we replace an o-ring in a fitting that cost $800ea (we were throwing the whole thing away and there are 8 of them!). Saved a few of our tax dollars . It's often fiddly, time consuming work and with my skills, my family would probably go hungry if I had to work in a REAL automotive shop. Maybe everyone don't work that way but I am certain those upper o-rings (and nipple cups/o-rings too) can easily be changed by anyone with the proper skills and could easily be messed up by someone without them.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 07:29 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
Ted,
In the world of auto Tech's you are correct. Doing a job repeatedly and knowing the weak spots lets you calculate the odds on things. Being paid by the hour on jobs makes knowing those odds even more important. Just watching Diesel TechRon's videos for example, crank this out, wrap this around here out of the way, knock this loose and be sure to wipe this off before you put it back in. Boom, done! In my job in aviation it's take all this crap off to get to this, replace this, and that, and those too, clean this with alcohol, waive a chicken bone over that and then call an inspector to look at everything you just did. I once got a savings bond for suggesting we replace an o-ring in a fitting that cost $800ea (we were throwing the whole thing away and there are 8 of them!). Saved a few of our tax dollars . It's often fiddly, time consuming work and with my skills, my family would probably go hungry if I had to work in a REAL automotive shop. Maybe everyone don't work that way but I am certain those upper o-rings (and nipple cups/o-rings too) can easily be changed by anyone with the proper skills and could easily be messed up by someone without them.
That last statement is a good one Rusty! There may be as many injectors that fail because of oring, that don't. Who knows? My theory is that if it doesn't fail for another couple thousand or more miles, then I got my money's worht out of it, if they do fail, then it'll get a new injector.
Are you still working on OH-5s armament at Ft. Rucker? Dang I miss that place!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 07:56 PM
  #24  
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5's have left us. Except for the one I got to work on at the museum this summer. Its on display in the main building configured with .50cal and rockets. Still a few A/C's at Shell. I'm a LongBow guy now (AH64D and E). A lot of the 58 guys are still around, many transitioned to E models. We're still mostly beating up on the AH64D fleet, I worked one the other day with way over 10,000 hrs on it!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 08:32 PM
  #25  
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I have never personally seen a truck fixed by top injector oring replacement. I HAVE seen many trucks that end up getting a full set of injectors because they won't seal after they reseal them.

I had an alliant sales rep in the shop and he was talking about those seals. I grabbed a core injector,, put it in a vise, grabbed a bunch of pics and a couple hammers and held them out to him and asked him to show me how to do it. He back peddled quickly. If there was a sure fire way to get the snap ring out,, I'd consider doing them. But the ones that customers have tried to reseal,, always seem to have witness marks from beating on them. In a shop setting,,, I will ALWAYS go to the fix. I refuse to charge a customer for an injector removal,, and chance the injector failing internally thus warranting another trip to the shop.

Btw,, this issue would've never came up if people are more careful installing oil rails. One of my personal trucks (my 06 with 820k), has never had any orings replaced in the oil rails or injectors.

I did however use HHC diesel's tool n orings today in a set of oil rails,, the engine had a lifter failure and I removed the cups to flush the rails out.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 08:41 PM
  #26  
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Did you try the redesigned nipple cups?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 08:52 PM
  #27  
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I can't wait to try them. But no I haven't installed them yet. I think I'm putting them on my new excursion once it finally gets its day in the sun (or week in the bay, lol).
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 09:41 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
5's have left us. Except for the one I got to work on at the museum this summer. Its on display in the main building configured with .50cal and rockets. Still a few A/C's at Shell. I'm a LongBow guy now (AH64D and E). A lot of the 58 guys are still around, many transitioned to E models. We're still mostly beating up on the AH64D fleet, I worked one the other day with way over 10,000 hrs on it!
Sorry to .

I forgot they retired the 5. Been out of long. Miss that too. Big difference in the 58 and 64. Bigger parts and bullets too!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 09:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
Did you try the redesigned nipple cups?
I haven't heard of these, What's the benefit? Just curious
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 10:54 PM
  #30  
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OK got my truck back and found a coolant leak around the small top coolant nipple. The Ford service writer was at first telling me I had a "Pinhole leak" in the MIDDLE of the inside of the radiator. My question to him was,"How do I all the sudden have a leak in my radiator?" And how did it appear on the INSIDE of my fan/shroud but I'm seeing coolant come out of the top of the radiator and spewing across the hood?

I am forcing them to repair/replace my radiator and I'm taking my truck and running away from this stealership. I hate lying...especially when it is so obvious to anyone with any common sense exactly what happened here.

I'm heading back to my old mechanics shop, even though the dealership in question is literally 2 miles from my home and the diesel shop I like is 35 miles away...it's just WORTH it!
 
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