In my 2000 F250 I have set up sleeping quarters in my camper shell. I have a fan, LED lights, and a few charging ports in back there. My original plan was to wire in a deep cycle battery the charges when the truck is running but disconnects when the truck is off so that I don't kill my starting batteries when camping. I have since ended up with some big gel cell batteries(C&D Technologies Long Duration Series TEL 12-70-BST). I took them by Interstate Batteries and spoke with them a bit. They said the batteries will be perfect for what I am doing with them but the alternators will charge at too high amperage and cook this battery.
Is there such a thing as an amperage reducer? What say the masses?

Ryan

 

I suppose there could be such a thing but I don't know..How about you get an inverter! nice to have 120vac sometimes.. then you can get the proper charger for those batteries. now about only charging when the truck is running! you could wire up something to the key switch. you can use the inverter when ever you want...I'm guessing you need a gel cell charger/maintainer 2.0 amps...get the biggest converter you can afford. sine wave are better i think. Prob not neccesary though.

 

I could wire in the converter to only get power when the truck is on and keep it hooked up to a trickle charger. Good idea. Thanks.

Any others?

Ryan

 

I am a little confused I was taught that the amperage drawn from the system is dependant upon the resistance of the device or devices connected to it. So if the alternator is working properly it will be running at 13.5 to 14.5 volts but the amperage draw would be determined by the batteries and the rest of the electrical system. I have a 300 amp HO alternator on my Ex but I don't have 300 amps passing through my trucks batteries or wiring. The truck/batteries draw the amps they need and is limited to what it can safely draw thru the fuses. A 12v battery shouldn't draw to much amps during normal charge unless the battery is extremely low 10 volts or less then it will draw higher amps until it reaches that 12v range again. But if I'm wrong please school me before I burn up my Ex!


Oh and to 99f350sd suggestion for the AC converter. It would be a helpful addition to that clean looking truck you have! It has been for my Ex for sure!

 

I run a 2800w pure sine inverter with 4 100 amp/hr batteries off my f250 with no issues charging. I put in a 12v solenoid switched in the cab so i don't run main battery down. Also works if for some reason i let main battery get too low to start, i flip the switch and presto i can boost myself. Lol

 

I believe that somebody got amps and volts reversed. Unless one of your batteries has a shorted cell it will not draw too many amps, however gel cells don't like too high a voltage, that is why you can get an alternator with a lower voltage set point to avoid over charging gel cell type batteries. If I remember correctly you don't want over 14.4 volts when charging and about 13.3 on float charge.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like you are running a couple of deep cycle batteries (based on this: http://www.interstatebatteries.com/p...tel_series.pdf) in your truck and the Interstate dealer was saying your alternator will cook them upon charging? If so, they are correct. Deep cycle batteries like a low amp, long duration charge, by cooking them, they mean they will overcharge them and reduce the cycle life. Using an inverter will not solve your charging issue, it will only modify your amp draw while not charging. In all actuality, it will use more power to convert the 12VDC to 120VAC and then back down to 12VDC (for charging your phone/laptop, or using fans). I would suggest wiring the batteries in series and using a battery isolator with a charge regulator to ensure your trucks ignition system is separate from your boondock camping system. Use as many 12VDC appliances as possible. That means using a car charger for your phone, most led lights will be 12VDC, 12VDC fans are easy to find, so you can use those in place of AC fan. You want a starting battery with a high CCA and a "house" battery with a high Amp hour rating. I run a Trojan 225 on my trailer and I can easily run my controller, LED lights, and radio on a long four or five day weekend without discharging the battery below 60%.
Ending my novel, do not use deep cell batteries for starting, do not use starting batteries for campers, and isolate the two systems to ensure you do not run out of juice during your vacations!