Governor Modding - RD2-110 pump.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
It was real bad a long while back. Done the atf, a gallon in a quarter tank of fuel, and it helped a whole lot. Took the top off of the ip too. It was super clean. I think that my ip is crapping out on me.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
Like I said, same thing happened on my second truck. I tore the entire pump down and re-sealed it, cleaned everything... no change.
The only thing that did make it work was screwing the stud in as far as it would go. That helped and made it drivable.
The only thing that did make it work was screwing the stud in as far as it would go. That helped and made it drivable.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
The only thing that did make it work was screwing the stud in as far as it would go. That helped and made it drivable.[/QUOTE]
Done this Friday evening. Drove it over 100 miles Saturday and it's better. Throttle response is totally different, for the better, and taking off is better. It's not totally fixed, but much better.
Done this Friday evening. Drove it over 100 miles Saturday and it's better. Throttle response is totally different, for the better, and taking off is better. It's not totally fixed, but much better.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
Back the locking nut out a little and then screw the stud in while holding the nut to keep it from jamming against the case. When done, tighten the nut.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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Well... Pump wise, great! Much better. Unfortunately, I think I'm having problems with the stock valve springs due to the extra boost pressure(and drive pressures). This is the /second/ pushrod I've bent(engine still ran fine, just on 7.5 cylinders), so I'm swapping out for some upgraded springs before I take it back on the road. Hopefully I'll get it done by the weekend.
Edit:
I figure I should point out - Back on the 21st, I was asked to haul a friends car(volvo sedan, so what, 4K?) from the middle of nowhere to the tire shop about 30 miles away. Both points are on a nice highway, and so after borrowing a small 2-axle trailer, I picked it up(front right tire failed from being run totally bald - cords were showing) and hauled it into town. On this highway, there's a nice stretch with two lanes and a relatively steep hill. I was cruising at about 65-70 at the bottom, hit the accelerator and hit 80 before I backed off near the top. In Overdrive the entire time. So yeah, it had power. And it sounded smooth as butter doing it, too.
So as soon as I can get the valve system to hold up a little better under the massive pressures my little turbo is putting out, it'll be time to upgrade to a *bigger* turbo!
Edit:
I figure I should point out - Back on the 21st, I was asked to haul a friends car(volvo sedan, so what, 4K?) from the middle of nowhere to the tire shop about 30 miles away. Both points are on a nice highway, and so after borrowing a small 2-axle trailer, I picked it up(front right tire failed from being run totally bald - cords were showing) and hauled it into town. On this highway, there's a nice stretch with two lanes and a relatively steep hill. I was cruising at about 65-70 at the bottom, hit the accelerator and hit 80 before I backed off near the top. In Overdrive the entire time. So yeah, it had power. And it sounded smooth as butter doing it, too.
So as soon as I can get the valve system to hold up a little better under the massive pressures my little turbo is putting out, it'll be time to upgrade to a *bigger* turbo!
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,554
Likes: 9
From: Northern Arizona
So you think you are floating valves into the pistons and that's what's bending the push rods? Which push rods are you bending... intake or exhaust? It would be very interesting to know what your drive pressure is in that set up.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2011
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Thanks for the update. And I agree with what Ford F834 asked? Upgraded springs are a must but I'm kind of betting that the drive pressure is really high on the exhaust side as well. That is moot point though if you are gonna upgrade soon anyway. The upgrade should alleviate that issue. Its cool to hear that its running really strong! Glad to hear it!
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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Thanks for the update. And I agree with what Ford F834 asked? Upgraded springs are a must but I'm kind of betting that the drive pressure is really high on the exhaust side as well. That is moot point though if you are gonna upgrade soon anyway. The upgrade should alleviate that issue. Its cool to hear that its running really strong! Glad to hear it!
And I just pulled the spring on that #1 exhaust valve; spring looked in good shape and the valve spun freely and moved up and down freely(well, the small amount possible at TDC).
So... I'm thinking valve springs will help. I'm sure the drive pressure is totally out the window - I've never even *heard* of someone getting 20+ PSI out of a TE06H, so I'm sure it's *really high*. But yeah, I do want a better turbo as soon as I can afford it.
BTW:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-springs.html ref my other topic about valve springs, for future readers.
At this point, my springs *should* be here tomorrow if my luck holds. I have stamped out some .050 shims which will fit /under/ the rotaters, which should keep them from wearing; I made them out of mild steel. It looks like using .050 shims for an installed height of 1.75 should give me an open pressure in the low 300's, and a closed pressure of like 140lbs. I think those are good numbers, as long as I can keep the rockers holding good. I do think the weak point here is going to be the pushrods, which is OK with me; pushrods are very cheap compared to any other part of the valve train.