55' Cab Insulation
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,577
Likes: 208
From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
55' Cab Insulation
Hey I am about ready to insulate the cab of my 55' F-100. I always thought when putting in insulation you put the foil or aluminum side toward the metal. Then I was reading in Mid 50's catalog to do just the opposite. I can see the logic for both methods but what is the best way from you all's experience of insulating cabs? I bought a roll of "The Insulator" brand insulation from Yogi's at the Street rod nationals last weekend in Louisville. My truck's AC starts to lose some of it's effectiveness after about 10 miles because the heat from the floorboards begins to come up. I would appreciate any advice anyone could provide. It is hot here in Middle Tennessee this time of the year ha- ha. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 274
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From: SW Wyoming
55' Cab Insulation
I read an article in Custom Classic Trucks where they showed how to install one of the insulation kits. They showed the foil-side of the insulation out, or away from the metal. So when they were done it looked like one of the Apollo space pods.
They gave some explanation about why the foil side should go out. I don't remember exactly what they said, but it makes sense to me. Think about how insulation works, layers of air that are seperated from the atmosphere suround an object like a cooler. If you put the side with the recycled rags (I'm guessing that's what it looks like) away from the metal it will still insulate, but won't be as effective as the foil side away from the metal. The sheetmetal of the cab forms one barrier for air, the foil forms another. The rest of the insulation will work best in between the to barriers.
They gave some explanation about why the foil side should go out. I don't remember exactly what they said, but it makes sense to me. Think about how insulation works, layers of air that are seperated from the atmosphere suround an object like a cooler. If you put the side with the recycled rags (I'm guessing that's what it looks like) away from the metal it will still insulate, but won't be as effective as the foil side away from the metal. The sheetmetal of the cab forms one barrier for air, the foil forms another. The rest of the insulation will work best in between the to barriers.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,622
Likes: 3
From: okla
55' Cab Insulation
I think that the ceramic based coatings are the way to go. I purchased some from "Cool Car Ceramics" that I will use in my
'40 Ford coupe project, but have not yet. I think that I've seen something on a similar product that can be brushed on, but don't know a name. Another product that is excellent is called "Armor-flex".I believe it is from the aircraft industry. I have purchased it previously, but have no supplier now. It works especially well on floorboards. I have insulated the cab of my 53 F100 with exactly what you have, but have not done my floor either. I am considering a ceramic of some type.
'40 Ford coupe project, but have not yet. I think that I've seen something on a similar product that can be brushed on, but don't know a name. Another product that is excellent is called "Armor-flex".I believe it is from the aircraft industry. I have purchased it previously, but have no supplier now. It works especially well on floorboards. I have insulated the cab of my 53 F100 with exactly what you have, but have not done my floor either. I am considering a ceramic of some type.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
55' Cab Insulation
<cr>
Just one last comment.
The foam/foil insulation for heating ducts has the foam side attaching to the ducting and the foil is on the outside. There is no choice in the matter (as how to attach it) because the foam is sticky and self-sticks to the ducting.
BTW, I used the heating duct insulation to insulate a VW bug project I just completed. It works great and is cheap. I did the whole interior with it. Top, doors, firewall, and floorpans.
Just one last comment.
The foam/foil insulation for heating ducts has the foam side attaching to the ducting and the foil is on the outside. There is no choice in the matter (as how to attach it) because the foam is sticky and self-sticks to the ducting.
BTW, I used the heating duct insulation to insulate a VW bug project I just completed. It works great and is cheap. I did the whole interior with it. Top, doors, firewall, and floorpans.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,577
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From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
55' Cab Insulation
Hey everybody,
Today was a good day for me. I did the insulation in the floor of my 55' F100 and also the firewall. It went a lot better and easier than I thought. I used the "insulator" brand insulation and 3M super Adhesive from the local paint store. As my AutoCad instructor told me often I did a lot of measuring twice and even three times and cutting once . I thought I would never use that rule. I then tried my hand at painting. I changed the color on two armrest out of a 77 Mustang. I plan to use them in my truck. The paint job turned out fair for a rookie. The guy at the paint store was good help. I then took it to the local Ford dealer for an oil change just to see the reaction. Many lookers. Basically the whole shop came out into the service writing area to look at it. Many gave the thumbs ups. My truck still needs paint bad !!. All in all I had a good experience today with insulating and painting on vinyl.
Today was a good day for me. I did the insulation in the floor of my 55' F100 and also the firewall. It went a lot better and easier than I thought. I used the "insulator" brand insulation and 3M super Adhesive from the local paint store. As my AutoCad instructor told me often I did a lot of measuring twice and even three times and cutting once . I thought I would never use that rule. I then tried my hand at painting. I changed the color on two armrest out of a 77 Mustang. I plan to use them in my truck. The paint job turned out fair for a rookie. The guy at the paint store was good help. I then took it to the local Ford dealer for an oil change just to see the reaction. Many lookers. Basically the whole shop came out into the service writing area to look at it. Many gave the thumbs ups. My truck still needs paint bad !!. All in all I had a good experience today with insulating and painting on vinyl.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Has anyone used the Cool Car or Lizard type spray on Insulation yet? I am curious to know how well it works in comparison to regular insulation.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 292
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From: Nor Cal
I'm with Joe Gaddy, I'd be leery about any insulation especially in Nashvegas that might trap moisture between the insulation and the interior sheetmetal. Look at the notorious rust problems at the front crown of the roof for evidence of what interior moisture will do. TN. is one beautiful green moss growin rust breedin slice of gods country! Rust or not, I miss my home. David
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 95
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From: Elizabeth City,N.C.
insulation
I painted areas to be insulated with por-15 then used water heater blanket, foil side out, same stuff you buy from the auto guys but about $10.00 a roll
cheaper at home Depot. Same R-value.
What do you do when your done?
Don
cheaper at home Depot. Same R-value.
What do you do when your done?
Don
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 628
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From: High Park, Toronto
Great Thread Tacson!
1077,- Thanks for the Home Depot Tip...I'm always lookin' for those kind of work arounds!
I want to hear more input about Dueces' moisture worry!!!
Ii sprayed a jobber "Duraliner" product [same as used to line the box of more modern pick ups] over the prime in my cab, everywhere but where it'll show in the finished cab with the idea that this in conjunction with the foilbacked insulation would increase the sound deadening as well as heat insulating qualities. [Sprayed it in the door cavities as well.]
However, I don't want to increase the chances of rust.
WHat's the opinion/concensus on ttthe combination I just suggested?
GW(& the Dixie Dance Kings...way North
)
I want to hear more input about Dueces' moisture worry!!!
Ii sprayed a jobber "Duraliner" product [same as used to line the box of more modern pick ups] over the prime in my cab, everywhere but where it'll show in the finished cab with the idea that this in conjunction with the foilbacked insulation would increase the sound deadening as well as heat insulating qualities. [Sprayed it in the door cavities as well.]
However, I don't want to increase the chances of rust.
WHat's the opinion/concensus on ttthe combination I just suggested?
GW(& the Dixie Dance Kings...way North
)
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,577
Likes: 208
From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Originally Posted by tacson
Has anyone used the Cool Car or Lizard type spray on Insulation yet? I am curious to know how well it works in comparison to regular insulation.
I am thinking of buying some of this stuff at either the street rod Nationals or the F100 nationals in Knoxville which are held one week apart at the same place. I would appreciate anybody's experience with it as it relates to a F100. Is it as good as advertised or is the foil backed type insulation just as effective? I only need to finish the area under my seat, rear of the cab, and the roof. Once I put bottoms in my doors I will get them. Thanks for any feedback. Shows are only 3 weeks away.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
If you are concerned about moisture getting under the insulation, first put down a layer of a product you can also buy at most DIY stores. It is a sticky backed rubber membrane with a foil top layer that is used on roofs to prevent ice dam damage. It is self sealing if you put any screws thru it. Just be sure floor is clean and press it down into all the nooks and crannys. It will also seal any holes in the floor or firewall. I haven't seen their product, but I wouldn't be surprised that it's the same thing Dynamat sells.
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