Underwater
What else should I do before attempting to start.
Thanks
I think that is a very good question. Did it die going into the water
or was it already dead before taking the plunge into the deep end
of the pool?
Dry out as much of the electrical connectors as you can. Also the type of
water can be a problem. Salt water being the worst. Once you get it running
you need to get up to temp and then check the oil for water contamination
and change it again if needed. The other thing to check is the transmission.
The 5R110W aka Torqshift does not do well with water. I have been told that
the adhesive used in the friction materials is water soluble. So look to see if any
water got into there. We have some stuff that is used in the aviation industry that
seems to be very good at displacing moisture in electrical connectors.
ACF-50 ANTI-CORROSION BLOCK COMPOUND
ACF-50 ANTI-CORROSION BLOCK COMPOUND from Aircraft Spruce
The 2 really important places are the PCM and the FICM connectors. Blow them dry
with compressed air and then spray some ACF-50 and assemble. Also while you
have the FICM off the truck make sure that it's dry inside. Just take the small cover
off and tip it around. If you find water then it needs to be services. Your best bet on that
would Ed over at (they are top rated) FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
If the engine was running they there are other things that could be a problem. Not in any
real order. Head gaskets,push rods, connecting rods (not likely), turbo and a few others.
I think the one that will creep up will be electrical gremlins do to the water. Did inside the
cab stay dry? Really there are so many things that may or may not have a problem that at this
point we are just guessing on it.
Sean
6.0L Tech Folder
Can I move this thread over to the 6.0 forum or must I restart?
Anyway I was driving truck thru water crossing road and fell into a washout that I wasn't able to see with the surface water. Water did come into cab. Truck was positioned at front down angle. So water was at bottom of front seat and higher towards the dash with hardly the carpet wet in the back seat. The dash stayed above bit all around pedals was under.
Batterys were under but didn't discharge. ..starter works. Still a mist blowing from glow plug holes when cranking.
Thanks
5~10cc in each cylinder and hand turn it over a few times to spread the oil around. You
might drape a shop rag down over the glow plug holes when you turn it over with the starter.
Just keep you body parts clear getting anything forced into the skin is not good and it can
do it with the glow plugs out. Check the turbo intake for any air filter material and make
sure that the intercooler is dry inside. Wet dry shop vac works well to suck air through the cooler.
You don't want to blow the air do to any dirt in the hose or any that gets past the filter. After
you have all of that checked I would give it a go and try to start. It would help to know what
the FICM main power is doing.
I really can't think of anything else.
Oh, I asked a MOD to move this over to the 6.0 L forum. You will still get Emails when
someone posts if you said yes to that option.
Sean
6.0L Tech Folder
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- Drain oil, replace oil and filter.
- Pull valve covers and wipe up, blow dry my water remains.
- Pull all air intake tubes and intercooler. Drain intercooler. If any water not just oil comes out lay it on its face and fill with alcohol from HD. Drain then hook up a vac blower port to one port and let it run for three hours.
- Blow out any water on the turbo intake side.
- IMO, I would pull the turbo to clean and dry if it was underwater.
- Clean air filter monitor or replace.
- Check power steering reservoir for water contamination.
- Check transmission for water contamination.
- Pull glow plugs and hand crank over motor. Get motor oil into cylinders and crank over to exhaust oil and remaining water.
- Check turbo intake for filter material and get a new filter.
- Pull FICM and remove the little cover, invert and see if water got inside. If so you have to wash and dry before any electricity goes to it.
- Pull all electrical connections, blow dry and spray with WD40, it's what it was formulated for.
- Pull throttle pedal, blow dry and WD40 along with anything else electrical under the dash that got wet.
- Check battery cells for spec gravity to see if they were contaminated.
- With GPs out, connections not made and air tubes still off use the starter to crank over motor for 15 second intervals every 10 minutes for an hour (charger on batteries).
- Change oil and repeat crank overs. Change oil and filter again.
- Install glow plugs, reconnect all electrical connections and install air intake components with a new air filter.
- Visit you local favorite place of worship and pray.
- Try a restart.
I've left out things that may have to be done dependent on discovery. The fuel system should be fine as long as water didn't enter through the tank filler or the vent on top front of the tank. The cooling system would be fine. Depending on the angle of attack you may have to pull the heater fan to drain and dry. An injector or two may be questionable depending if a spool oil exhaust port was open and water migrated into it. Roller lifters are part of the pray and hope. The next few oil changes should be in tens and hundreds of miles, not thousands.
On edit, that list may include more or less, it will depend on what you find during discovery. And exactly how deep the front end went submarine. For instance, it was not mentioned but the relays under the hood may or may not have gotten water into them. Fuse may have to be replaced or just reinserted to re obtain good contact. And both the PCM and ABS controller are both way up front. Hopefully they retained their seals.
The insurance companies wrote off just about all vehicles where the motors got dunked during Sandy here at the shore.











