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Also, I had a lot of trouble getting the link to the cab removal/head gasket/HP fuel pump walk through to load, so I consolidated it to a PDF.
All credit goes to BlackSnapOn from Ford Truck Fanatics. He posted every picture for us to enjoy. If this comes in handy, hop over there and thank him. He did a ton of work to make this very easy to follow.
can the lifters be removed with cab off and engine still installed. I know the CAM's removal require engine removal...but Im not clear if the lifters will come up while engine is still installed.
I believe the rear cover needs removed to access the lifters/camshaft through the rear of the motor. If that is the case, no matter what the tranny needs pulled, cab off or on.
Personally I have never had to access anything related to the cam, so I am by no means the expert there. If the cam needs removed, I am certain the cab off/tranny pulled would work. I would assume cam needs removed to access, and if thats the case, I would think just pull the motor instead of the cab and tranny. Someone else would need to tag in though.
What is wrong with your lifters? Maybe some background would help.
Oh, and if the lifters *DO* come out the top, you would need the heads off.
It is possible to do head job on a 6.4 with cab on, however if your doing that just so you don't need to pull engine, then that is a whole lot of extra time plus $$$ for parts. Head gasket kit runs a few 100 plus studs are 4-500 and misc gaskets etc.
I had the ticking/thump noise that a lot of folks caputred on a few you tube videos. After doing a flush and draining the oil and refilling with new oil...the ticking / thump noise went away. if it comes back will probally have to throw bigg money at it before I would be comfortable driving long distances. is a 2010 f-450 6.4L with 85K miles on it. runs fine with 15W40 in it, if I put 5W40 in it it sounds like someone is shaking a tool box and the ticking / thump noise is worse.
I know that the engine has to come out to change the cam, which is sometimes damaged by bad lifters in 6.4's. but I was not sure if you could replace lifters with out pulling the engine.
I've only ever used Rotella t6. Some people had luck putting in some atf. I would recommend Mobil full synthetic atf and try that before doing any teardown.
These motors require better oil, api cj-4 if I recall. But better quality is always better imo
I watched a few youtube videos and saw the lifters do come out the block from under the head. There is black plastic retainer with I believe an m10 bolt in the pushrod cavity. I did not touch it on the 6.4 I did but I believe if you unbolt that they either pop right out or use a magnet on a stick from the top.
If this is indeed the case, you can replace them without pulling cab or motor. Just be aware that if the lifter is bad there is a good chance of creating uneven wear on your cam and possibly leading to needing a new cam as well. But again, your talking a decent amount of money to do a head job. It would really suck to go through that much effort and still need a new cam (which would require pulling the heads again).
yes...that makes sense...I've seen the magnetic tool to lift the lifter out.
and yes...catch the lifter failure early would avoid CAM related problems. right now...no metal has ever appeared in my magnetic sump drain or in the magnets within my metal screen oil filter.....
I did the cam on my engine. I pulled the cab off, pulled the motor out, and instead of removing that heads (I didn't want to spend the money on head gaskets and such) I removed the oil pan and fished those lifters out with a magnet.
It's a real pain, but it is possible.
And yes, if you remove the heads, you can unbolt the little black plastic things called a lifter guide and take the lifters out the top.
I would be very worried about camshaft condition if a lifter has gone south. But when you have the lifters out, rotate the cam so the lobe with the bad lifter is visible. From there you should be able to see if the cam is damaged or not.
I had the ticking/thump noise that a lot of folks caputred on a few you tube videos. After doing a flush and draining the oil and refilling with new oil...the ticking / thump noise went away. if it comes back will probally have to throw bigg money at it before I would be comfortable driving long distances. is a 2010 f-450 6.4L with 85K miles on it. runs fine with 15W40 in it, if I put 5W40 in it it sounds like someone is shaking a tool box and the ticking / thump noise is worse.
I know that the engine has to come out to change the cam, which is sometimes damaged by bad lifters in 6.4's. but I was not sure if you could replace lifters with out pulling the engine.
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