Hi Guys. I hear that the 6.4 is very sensitive with its fuels. I use additives such as Cetane Boost from Power Service. Especially in the cold weather. Anyone have experience with these?

 

Yes a good cetane booster and anti gel is essential this day and age, make sure you drain your water separator at least monthly.

 

Perfect. I've been using it. Also using the injector cleaner as well. I know water can be a problem this time of year.

 

I use Opti-lube, I have used many, Stanadyne,Diesel Kleen, Powerservice White in the winter, I like the Opti-lube the best.

 

Personally I like both Archoil and Stanadyne, but the ford stuff is amazing also. DK is good but it tends to strip the hpfp and injectors of everything. A great property if you have used it for a long time and continue to use it. You also want something that adds lubricity along with it. I have pretty much only been using stanadyne though, quiets the injectors down a lot.

During the winter I doubble treat with the DK winter and stanadyne, but for summer its just stanadyne when I don't need extra anti gel. Keep in mind I am in MN and during the summer we only have access to B20 (btw b20 is amazing for lubricity compared to straight D2 but it holds water like a sponge). Stanadyne along with archoil are demulsifiers meaning they pull water from the fuel. It actually allows your filters to do their job.

 

yes...some type of fuel lube additive is a must

 

Is 2 cycle oil a NO NO in our trucks? what if the dpf was deleted, then should it be used?

 

There is controversy over 2stroke in a 6.4... I know of a few guys who have run it and they have all ended up with injector problems.

I really think it gums things up more than anything. I have no proof of this though.

 

I have used it for a while with no ill effects

 

we also dont know if they used low ash 2 cycle oil.

 

The 2 that I know of both used ashless, I know that for a fact.

 

Have you guys heard about an additive called Bestline?

 

never heard of it....but what we dont know is how these additives effect the cat and dpf...so basically you can get one that is a super lube...but then the zinc and other metals will contaminate the CAT.

It may be good for a 7.3, and it may not be good for a 6.4.

I wonder how plain old 2 cycle oil will do on that machine.

 

I am not really concerned with the cat and dpf. im wondering if those additives are good for the engine and fuel system

 

The silicon based ones such as slick fifty accumulate in oil pathways and cause hot spots

The Molly based ones such as tufoil cause corrosion

Petroleum thinners such as mystery oil soak into the metal phores preventing oil bonding and increase metal counts in oil sampling.

Boron based products such as REV-x fill metal phores with boron and that provides greater contact surface for oil Lube and heat transfer. Does not harm cat and dpf, but the detergent base stock it comes in can loosen enough carbon initially to increase DPF regens.

Zinc and ZDDP based products such as Lucas break in oil reduced friction with out causing corrosion but will contaminate the CAT

Arch oil is another boron based product that will fill phores in metal with boron and that results in more surface area to transfer Lube and heat with out chasing corrosion and hurting the cat.

Lucas oil additive is 80wt oil that simply increases oil viscosity. Simple math...add 1 qt to 10 wits of 15w40 oil and now you have 23w48 oil.

Overall if you still have a cat , rev-x and arch oil are the best choice. Cat or no cat, stay away from silicon and moly based products.

Also, a lot of folks use solvent based thinners to their oil as part of a flush and drain plan at each oil change. These thinners will melt seals and cause leaks. You can get the same cleaning effect by using a quart of 0w5 racing oil that is used in alcohol race engines and the 0w5 will not harm seals and will free stuck rings and stuck lifters...add a quart and just leave it I there.