Headlight switch contact cleaning?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 774
Likes: 10
From: Simsbury, Connecticut
Headlight switch contact cleaning?
Hi all - I'm getting my 12 volts out of my headlight wire when the switch is pulled all of the way out but I lose power when I connect the headlights and the switch is under load. I'm guessing the contacts need cleaning after the truck sat in a field for 15 years. Is it possible to clean it up?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,073
Likes: 101
From: Marana, Arizona
This worked on my turn signal switch so I tried it on my headlight switch. The headlight switch went from crusty and green to looking new.
I did not take the headlight switch apart. Just soaked it in a plastic bowl. Used a brass detail brush on the heavy stuff and rinsed it really well. Looks and works great.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,594
Likes: 72
From: North Central Arkansas
You can Carefully bend back the tabs that hold the switch together and take them apart. I said carefully as sometimes the tabs will break. Watch when you open it that pieces don't go flying, there are springs under the sliding contacts to keep them in good contact. When you get it apart you can clean out the old grease and sand all of the contact surfaces with fine sandpaper, I think I used 320 or 400 grit. Smear some dielectric grease on the contacts and moving parts inside and put it back together, bending the tabs back down tightly. I did this to the light switch and dimmer switch on my '47 COE and they always worked good after that on 12V. The grease had dried in the dimmer switch and it wouldn't change but, worked fine after I cleaned it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Do Not bend the tabs straight up all the way
as they are more prone to break. I bend them
just far enough to get it apart. even then some
will break. But there are ways to make it work
fine even if they all break off.
as they are more prone to break. I bend them
just far enough to get it apart. even then some
will break. But there are ways to make it work
fine even if they all break off.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2015
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From: Buffalo NY
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Simsbury, Connecticut
I haven't tried spraying it no. That thought crossed my mind. But I felt it might only be temporary. The dimming mechanism inside is squeaky and doesn't always make contact and now with the headlights not working it just seems the old switch needs a tune up. I'll take it apart and do it right the first time so it doesn't come back to haunt me during some late night drive home.
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CC:
Sounds like you are on the right track.
I choose to disassemble the switch from my F1. I did not want problems later on.......After seeing the condition of the dried grease and dirt accumulation I was glad I took the time to do it. I don't think I could have cleaned it out without opening the case. It was easy and did not take long to do so
Sounds like you are on the right track.
I choose to disassemble the switch from my F1. I did not want problems later on.......After seeing the condition of the dried grease and dirt accumulation I was glad I took the time to do it. I don't think I could have cleaned it out without opening the case. It was easy and did not take long to do so
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 774
Likes: 10
From: Simsbury, Connecticut
I really enjoy keeping as many original items on the truck as possible. I'm sure many people feel the same way about their own. If it's shot then yes I absolutely will get a new one.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 25,374
Likes: 5,383
From: Central PA
Oh, I hear you. I am the same way. When I redid my truck instead of buying new ***** for the dash I just painted them gloss black and they look great to this day 17 years later. My rheostat didn't work so I bought a new light switch.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Simsbury, Connecticut
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,685
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From: Northville, MI
Hi Calvin,
You might want to check elsewhere in your system first, particularly the ground cables and both battery connections. Also check the wiring to the headlights. You didn't say but I'm assuming that this is your '56 F-500?
And if you find nothing I agree with abe . . . just replace the switch. They are not that expensive. Just be careful to check everything thoroughly first or you might fry the new switch.
You might want to check elsewhere in your system first, particularly the ground cables and both battery connections. Also check the wiring to the headlights. You didn't say but I'm assuming that this is your '56 F-500?
And if you find nothing I agree with abe . . . just replace the switch. They are not that expensive. Just be careful to check everything thoroughly first or you might fry the new switch.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2014
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Likes: 10
From: Simsbury, Connecticut
This is my F-500 yes. All grounds were checked prior to installing the brake lights. They're solid. I'll take the switch out tomorrow and have a look. I'll take a few pictures along the way. Like I said earlier if it's shot or shows obvious signs of wear I don't want to take my chances and I'll buy a new one.
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