So as the title states, my subwoofers going out on my 2006 so I want to replace it as soon as possible. Beside being 8" in size what else should I look for?I not looking to upgrade the Amp or anything just to change the subwoofer that all. its an Ultimatebtw if that makes a difference

 

Just to avoid getting something wrong, I'd pull it out and see if there are any spec. or power ratings listed on it.

 

I'm pretty sure it's a dual voice coil woofer, but specs like impedance and power handling is not given by Ford as far as I know. Might be printed on the driver, but not sure. I think I read somewhere that someone guessed it to be about 100W but how accurate that is would be anybodies guess

 

yeah I think it is a dual voice coil. so far
-8"inch diameter
-dual voice coil over
Now the watts, 100 seems low for me, I thought the amp was around 600w range?

 

600W? No, don't think it's that large. Check the fuse for the amp, then do a simple calculation: P = I * U where P is watts, I is amps and U is volts, I seem to remember it's powered through a 20 amp fuse (at least in the '05), which gives it max 240W of power to draw, and since you never get a 1 to 1 ratio on power in and power out, I'd suspect the amp can produce somewhere between 150W and 200W.

 

If it just sounds like it's going out and not dead I would recommend visually examining the speaker before purchasing a new one, I have had several stock speakers on random vehicles sound like they were shot only to find a piece of tape or insulation hanging down against the speaker making rattling noises.

 

Ok I will thanks

I'll check although I highly doubt it

 

For the record,I have a 2001 Lincoln Navigator:

The subwoofer is an 8 inch dual coil subwoofer. It tested to 3.4 ohm, so 4 ohm. The amp is 2 X 55 watt. The subwoofer is very narrow so most 8 inch subwoofers will not fit into the enclosure. the mounting depth is only 3.25 inches at the most.

As for diagnosis, if the subwoofer makes any kind of sound, whether its music from the radio, or just rattles to the beat, or makes occasional weird chirping noises, assume the amp is good. If the subwoofer does nothing at all, its very likely the amp needs to be replaced.

Advice: If the amp goes out just get a used one off the internet (ebay, etc.). I did this years ago and the amp is still going strong. But, never buy a used Ford exact replacement subwoofer. Instead, I highly recommend the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2. It is an exact fit: 8 inch, 8 screw mounting pattern, 150 watt rms, dual voice coil, can be set to 4 ohm. It requires no drilling, no cutting, and no modifications to the enclosure. It is made of tougher materials than the paper cone, sounds better, and is about $65 on Amazon.

If you have never replaced your subwoofer, although it looks like you can easily remove the speaker grill and remove the subwoofer by removing the 8 screws circling the speaker, that's not enough. There is a bolt (3/8" socket) in the back of the enclosure that bolts into the magnet on the back of the subwoofer. So, you will have to remove the enclosure from the truck. There are several YouTube videos demonstrating how this is done. The good news is no other subwoofers use this bolt, so the next time you decide to blow your sub, you can replace it from the front.

 

if I get a new stereo ,and the sub (same as you described ) will I need a amp say a 400w amp that runs 150rms

 

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/P...eries/GM-A3702

This one will run that 8 inch shallow mount woofer nicely. I'm using that in my '05. That amp is also powerful enough for a more traditional subwoofer as well. I'm planning to get a JBL preloaded 12 inch sub in the back, then have the option to take it out and use the 8 inch pioneer sub in the OEM box whenever I need the space.

 

If you already a have a sub, then you already have a sub amp in your vehicle. The wiring harness that comes with your new radio combined wiring a harness for designed for your specific vehicle creates all the wiring necessary to connect to your current sub amp. That amp is 110W rms (2x55).Of course you can replace it with another amp if that is not enough or your amp is bad. Pioneer subwoofer is rated up to 150 watts rms and 600 peak.

 

When I tested it, the OEM amp wasn't really up to snuff powering the Pioneer aftermarket sub. It was way better with an aftermarket amp as well. You can tap into the OEM wiring for audio signal, saving you the hassle of running audio and remote wires, but the power circuit wasn't strong enough to power the amp, so I had to run a power wire to it.

 

In case no one pointed it out, it's a 2 ohm per channel dual voice coil sub. 2ohm is important, as if you get a 4 ohm the output won't be as good since the amplifier will output approx only 65% of the output it would at 2 ohms.

 

Here is the info all about the amp in these SUV's. I no longer have a decent system in my Expedition, but will help anyone who has questions. Yes, the factory amp works just fine with an aftermarket amp as long as you don't need it to shake your mirror(it will a little), or move your ear drums.

https://www.expeditionforum.com/thre...sub-amp.28792/

 

Depends on the amp, if the amp is rated 2 ohm stable and you bridge it, then it needs minimum 4 ohms in bridge mode. 2 vs 4 ohms isn't really that important when talking 2-300w subs. 300w in 2 or 4 ohms sounds the same, the only difference is the amp. That Pioneer mentioned above doesn't require anything major to drive it, and if you go with that amp I linked you'd have to bridge the amp and wire it to 4 ohms. When you're diving into large systems, then it gets more important to go with lower impedance, even down to 0.5 ohms in huge systems.