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Hello, back at it again. First things first, I have an 03 f350 king ranch dual rear wheel, definitely the early build motor. First time I have ever had to use the block heater, but I don't see any indications that its on, or hear any buzzing noises or anything. Now ive never had to use a block heater before in my life. Are there any tell tale signs that it is either on and working, or off and not working? Switches or the like that are required to be energized/ turned on before it works? Thanks for any and all insigt!
unplug it and look for a little spark across to the extension cord as it come out of the end of the plug might do it plugging it back in too. they have a fairly hefty amp draw. that's how i make sure they are working. no visual or audible indicators. and i live somewhere that people have block heaters on all there gas engines as well.
My new heater doesn't snap when plugged in. ECT isn't showing anything? I changed mine recently. Drain your fluid, pull the heater and plug it in. It will get hot almost instantly. .... don't hold it in your hand, ask me how I know. Before you pull it do a simple check first.
Check the plug at the grill, then the plug at the heater for damage. Just use a continuity check right at the plug, it's a straight thru shot., test lead on each side should do it, or Ohm it at zero. Anything more than that it's an open.
Mine checked fine, still wouldn't work so I pulled it... worked great in my hand!
My new heater doesn't snap when plugged in. ECT isn't showing anything? I changed mine recently. Drain your fluid, pull the heater and plug it in. It will get hot almost instantly. .... don't hold it in your hand, ask me how I know. Before you pull it do a simple check first.
Check the plug at the grill, then the plug at the heater for damage. Just use a continuity check right at the plug, it's a straight thru shot., test lead on each side should do it, or Ohm it at zero. Anything more than that it's an open.
Mine checked fine, still wouldn't work so I pulled it... worked great in my hand!
Now THAT is hilarious. only because ive done many dumb things just like that. When testing for voltage on them old helos, id use a bit of steel safety wire to get inside it. many times, did I forget to turn it off before inserting said wire. a shocking reminder.
I usually see a tiny spark when I go source to load when plugging in. There are no switches or anything, just plug in. The only indication I get that it is on is the ECT and EOT will be in the 80 degree range after about 3 hours of plug in time.
Drain your fluid, pull the heater and plug it in. It will get hot almost instantly
Do not do this unless you want to replace your block heater. This is a method that can burn out the heater element.
Instead, use a multimeter and check the resistance through the circuit, no draining or disassembly required. It should read in the ballpark of 15 ohms.
All great suggestions. I went out to the truck and touched the block. I wouldn't say that it is warm, but its 20* outside, and it felt warmer than 20, that's for certain. On a down side, I've been tracking my coolant the last couple of days. Went out to the truck yesterday and there was a nice little puddle of coolant under the passenger side. Got to lookin and it seemed it was coming from the Exhaust port of cylinder 5. Started it up and sure as day it was bubbling out. Ran it for awhile and it stopped, knew I was just shy of being full on coolant, topped everything off today. And when I went out to look at the block heater, it was coming off the driver side, somewhere from the exhaust manifold. Now I'm no diesel engineer, but I doubt my truck would be running as well as it is with two busted head gaskets. I'm steering towards I have a bad egr cooler. But, I don't have much of anything out of the exhaust.......makes me wonder.
The little blue hose? No, I checked there. Its not leaking. I just replaced that hose back in July. Had it off two weeks ago when I did the hpop. I looked down under it today, dry.
Do not do this unless you want to replace your block heater. This is a method that can burn out the heater element.
Instead, use a multimeter and check the resistance through the circuit, no draining or disassembly required. It should read in the ballpark of 15 ohms.
The new one was on the bench ready to go in... why I plugged the old one in...... just to see and it worked fine. Don't know why it stopped working in the truck.
I usually see a tiny spark when I go source to load when plugging in. There are no switches or anything, just plug in. The only indication I get that it is on is the ECT and EOT will be in the 80 degree range after about 3 hours of plug in time.
John
That does not seem that warm to me.
Mine will was pushing 110 the other morning in that time frame. Ambient that morning was around 4*.
I can watch the garage lights dim just a tad to confirm if the timer is working. These elements to pull a good amount. IIRC over 10A?
At any rate, it's still worth it in fuel savings but more importantly wear and tear.
If you listen through the passenger front wheel well, you can hear a slight his when plugged in. Just plug in to a lighted extension cord to verify power and listen, it only takes a few seconds to start. Then watch EOT it will hit about 100s in about 3 hours, 130s in 4 hours is my experience if inside the unheard garage. Outside in the open, it might hit 110 in 4 hours. Again, continuity of the cord and resistance of the element are good to check if you don't hear the hiss.
If you listen through the passenger front wheel well, you can hear a slight his when plugged in. Just plug in to a lighted extension cord to verify power and listen, it only takes a few seconds to start. Then watch EOT it will hit about 100s in about 3 hours, 130s in 4 hours is my experience if inside the unheard garage. Outside in the open, it might hit 110 in 4 hours. Again, continuity of the cord and resistance of the element are good to check if you don't hear the hiss.
I can hear mine hiss if I put my head down in front of the grill.
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