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My truck is a1937 ford all original.
I got it to fires yesterday.
I have many conserns o the wires.
The braided wire loom is brittle and cracked , in alot the places I can see time has done it's numbers on the wire loom. Any brittle spots I can see green color and wondering how much resistance this is causing the system.
The starter wire is bare about 2 Inc back from starter, I know it takes a load and gets hot/warm but in reference to how much cranking it does to actually starting is a worry.
I have gone threw carb and appears to be in good working order.
What is a good method to checking all the conection threw out the truck. And major conections I should realy pay close attention to. Thanks.
Hey 1937, Have you unattached the wire connections and shined up those areas. There should be a ground to the body and to the frame with these heavy cables, possibly a mesh type ground cable.
That should speed up the cranking speed. However the engine shouldn't have to spin that fast to fire. After all, originally these were started with a hand crank as an option.
I read your previous post, So i am just making sure you are not just cleaning off the outside of the connections.
My truck is a1937 ford all original.
I got it to fires yesterday.
I have many conserns o the wires.
The braided wire loom is brittle and cracked , in alot the places I can see time has done it's numbers on the wire loom. Any brittle spots I can see green color and wondering how much resistance this is causing the system.
The starter wire is bare about 2 Inc back from starter, I know it takes a load and gets hot/warm but in reference to how much cranking it does to actually starting is a worry.
I have gone threw carb and appears to be in good working order.
What is a good method to checking all the conection threw out the truck. And major conections I should realy pay close attention to. Thanks.
If I intend to keep the oriinal wiring as in my tonner panel I have learned to love heatshrink tubing. I like the look of the old wire and I'm also a cheapskate. The other issue is I cannot stand working under the dash. I just don't contort any more. I just remove connections that need it, clean well til shiny. Heat shrink back an inch or two to sound cloth wire cover and good to go. Of course the less you move or touch the wires, the less stuff falls off them. Best thing is under the dash the wiring is normally very sound.
Easy for me to run this way because I'm always close to home, no traffic etc, can always pull off road to tape something or beat out a fire with my coat. Others may see this as a safety issue. EDIT: I just read 'smoke in the cab'. Maybe you need a new harness!
Hey 1937, Have you unattached the wire connections and shined up those areas. There should be a ground to the body and to the frame with these heavy cables, possibly a mesh type ground cable.
That should speed up the cranking speed. However the engine shouldn't have to spin that fast to fire. After all, originally these were started with a hand crank as an option.
I read your previous post, So i am just making sure you are not just cleaning off the outside of the connections.
Yup that's what I have for positive ground, cleaned that up all nice and clean mating surface.
Here's a link to a general outline on testing any cable, wire or connection itself for excessive resistance using a voltmeter. It's important to note they are always tested under load, ohms testing is of no benefit. Even a single strand of wire will show good continuity and voltage, after all.
It works for anything from 1907 to 2007 and beyond. Just a few tenths voltage drop can be enough to cause big problems wreaking havoc in charging systems, headlights, ignition, etc.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
EDIT: I just read 'smoke in the cab'. Maybe you need a new harness!
