"New" Truck question
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Junior User
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"New" Truck question
I just bought my '91 7.3 IDI a few weeks ago. I don't know a whole lot about the history on the truck, the guy who owned it previously had passed away and his nephew sold it to me.
My question is, now that I own it and I don't know the history, what should I check and/or replace right off the bat? I do know it has 2 new batteries, a new alternator and relay, and a new starter.
I'm guessing a good place to start would be replacing all the fluids and the glow plugs? Also should I be putting additives into the fuel with every tank as I live in MI and it's regularly ~30 degrees every day.
My question is, now that I own it and I don't know the history, what should I check and/or replace right off the bat? I do know it has 2 new batteries, a new alternator and relay, and a new starter.
I'm guessing a good place to start would be replacing all the fluids and the glow plugs? Also should I be putting additives into the fuel with every tank as I live in MI and it's regularly ~30 degrees every day.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2015
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1. check for fuel leaks
a. fuel filter heater
b. fuel return at injectors
2. check glow plug wire connection
If the heater leaks, a 30 minute fix is order replacing the O-ring
If fuel return lines leaking, O-rings need placing
O-rings are available from McMasters for under $20 with shipping
Glow plugs from RockAuto for under $100
Welcome aboard,,,,,,
a. fuel filter heater
b. fuel return at injectors
2. check glow plug wire connection
If the heater leaks, a 30 minute fix is order replacing the O-ring
If fuel return lines leaking, O-rings need placing
O-rings are available from McMasters for under $20 with shipping
Glow plugs from RockAuto for under $100
Welcome aboard,,,,,,
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 63
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That would be good call, replace with Motorcraft. By no means use Autolight. I replaced my glow plugs in my 89' today. Three came out somewhat easy, after I applied numerous applications of my ''cocktail'' to the remaining 5 they came out.
My ''cocktail'' of 1 part acetone, 1 part ATF. A slide hammer works great removing the swollen glow plugs.
My ''cocktail'' of 1 part acetone, 1 part ATF. A slide hammer works great removing the swollen glow plugs.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 21
Fluids are a good place to start.
1. Check for SCA in the coolant. If it isn't there, then add is ASAP. You may want to do a coolant flush and then add it with new coolant.
2. Look to see if you can tell what brand the GP's are. If they are Motorcraft/Beru and are working then just leave them alone. If they are another brand then remove and replace with correct ones.
3. How many miles on the truck and how does it cold start? Ip's/injectors are usually changed every 100-125k miles.
I got my '88 and it had not been driven much, so I spent a bit over the first year doing maintenance of different systems and fixing seal leaks.
After the basic things are done, just drive it and expect some things to pop up.
1. Check for SCA in the coolant. If it isn't there, then add is ASAP. You may want to do a coolant flush and then add it with new coolant.
2. Look to see if you can tell what brand the GP's are. If they are Motorcraft/Beru and are working then just leave them alone. If they are another brand then remove and replace with correct ones.
3. How many miles on the truck and how does it cold start? Ip's/injectors are usually changed every 100-125k miles.
I got my '88 and it had not been driven much, so I spent a bit over the first year doing maintenance of different systems and fixing seal leaks.
After the basic things are done, just drive it and expect some things to pop up.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2015
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Fluids are a good place to start.
1. Check for SCA in the coolant. If it isn't there, then add is ASAP. You may want to do a coolant flush and then add it with new coolant.
2. Look to see if you can tell what brand the GP's are. If they are Motorcraft/Beru and are working then just leave them alone. If they are another brand then remove and replace with correct ones.
3. How many miles on the truck and how does it cold start? Ip's/injectors are usually changed every 100-125k miles.
I got my '88 and it had not been driven much, so I spent a bit over the first year doing maintenance of different systems and fixing seal leaks.
After the basic things are done, just drive it and expect some things to pop up.
1. Check for SCA in the coolant. If it isn't there, then add is ASAP. You may want to do a coolant flush and then add it with new coolant.
2. Look to see if you can tell what brand the GP's are. If they are Motorcraft/Beru and are working then just leave them alone. If they are another brand then remove and replace with correct ones.
3. How many miles on the truck and how does it cold start? Ip's/injectors are usually changed every 100-125k miles.
I got my '88 and it had not been driven much, so I spent a bit over the first year doing maintenance of different systems and fixing seal leaks.
After the basic things are done, just drive it and expect some things to pop up.
I'll check the GP's, I have no idea what's in it. What should the ohms read on them if they work properly?
The odometer has rolled over so the exact miles are unknown. The guy who owned it before has passed away and his nephew sold it for the man's wife, so they don't know. It reads 43k but not sure if it's actually 143k, 243k, etc... It was a $2000 truck with a plow so I couldn't argue.
It starts wonderfully every time, next to no smoke on start up, just a faint white mist for a couple minutes, it is slightly rough at first so I hold the accelerator at high idle till it runs smoothly. And this is at sub freezing temps.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Madison, WI
If you use FleetCharge anti-freeze, it's pre-charged with SCA so no additives needed.
Automatic or manual transmission? 4x4 or 2WD?
Automatic or manual transmission? 4x4 or 2WD?
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Junior User
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Auto trans, 4X4.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,511
Likes: 5,567
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
if it starts rite up in sub zero temps, i would not mess with the glow plugs, batteries, battery cables, or starter. they are working fine.
if they were not, it would not start at 30degrees.
do an oil change, fuel filter, trans fluid and filter, check or drain and fill the front and rear differentials, check or change the transfer case fluid, and do a radiator flush.
that should put you in pretty good shape.
then just keep an eye out for vibrations, or steering pulling when braking.
vibrations at higher speeds or squeaking at low speeds is an indication of a dry/bad universal, steering pulling one direction when breaking is a sign of sticking caliper/bad brakes.
if they were not, it would not start at 30degrees.
do an oil change, fuel filter, trans fluid and filter, check or drain and fill the front and rear differentials, check or change the transfer case fluid, and do a radiator flush.
that should put you in pretty good shape.
then just keep an eye out for vibrations, or steering pulling when braking.
vibrations at higher speeds or squeaking at low speeds is an indication of a dry/bad universal, steering pulling one direction when breaking is a sign of sticking caliper/bad brakes.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
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if it starts rite up in sub zero temps, i would not mess with the glow plugs, batteries, battery cables, or starter. they are working fine.
if they were not, it would not start at 30degrees.
do an oil change, fuel filter, trans fluid and filter, check or drain and fill the front and rear differentials, check or change the transfer case fluid, and do a radiator flush.
that should put you in pretty good shape.
then just keep an eye out for vibrations, or steering pulling when braking.
vibrations at higher speeds or squeaking at low speeds is an indication of a dry/bad universal, steering pulling one direction when breaking is a sign of sticking caliper/bad brakes.
if they were not, it would not start at 30degrees.
do an oil change, fuel filter, trans fluid and filter, check or drain and fill the front and rear differentials, check or change the transfer case fluid, and do a radiator flush.
that should put you in pretty good shape.
then just keep an eye out for vibrations, or steering pulling when braking.
vibrations at higher speeds or squeaking at low speeds is an indication of a dry/bad universal, steering pulling one direction when breaking is a sign of sticking caliper/bad brakes.
I will do that with the fluids. Thank you Tjc. That's extremely helpful.
I do have some vibration when maintaining a speed, not during acceleration or braking, whether it be 55 or 65, sometimes as low as 40. Very minor though. Slight pulling to the left while braking, but I'll check tire pressure first.
Also when I let off the gas while driving, there's a slight thud somewhere underneath and a slight feeling like something shifts forward. Are the trans mounts are loose and it shifts forward? Or the engine? Not sure.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Most of us are using an oil filter for a powerstroke, it has a little more capacity. Motorcraft fl1995 I believe. I get mine at walmart.
The fuel filter has flaws also. If you still have the oe setup there is a cup that screws to the bottom and it is prone to leaks. There are a couple options, one just has a drain in the bottom of the filter for water, the other also has a spot for the water in fuel sensor. I am using the one without the water sensor but I cant remember the part number.
The fuel filter has flaws also. If you still have the oe setup there is a cup that screws to the bottom and it is prone to leaks. There are a couple options, one just has a drain in the bottom of the filter for water, the other also has a spot for the water in fuel sensor. I am using the one without the water sensor but I cant remember the part number.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,511
Likes: 5,567
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
slight vibration and thud when getting on or off throttle sounds like rear universal.
chock the wheels, and get under it. look closely at the caps on the universal. if there is any red/brown dust around the caps, they are dry, rusty, and the needle bearings are shot and the joint is ready to fail.
my experience is around 150k miles or so out of a set of universals, with the rear being the first to fail. i always replace all at the same time, but if you are in a pinch you can just replace the bad one.
easiest way to check motor/trans mounts is to look at the 4X4 shifter when getting on the throttle. if it moves to the passenger side when flooring it in forward, driver side mount is broke. if it moves to driver side when flooring it in gear in reverse, passenger side mount is broke.
chock the wheels, and get under it. look closely at the caps on the universal. if there is any red/brown dust around the caps, they are dry, rusty, and the needle bearings are shot and the joint is ready to fail.
my experience is around 150k miles or so out of a set of universals, with the rear being the first to fail. i always replace all at the same time, but if you are in a pinch you can just replace the bad one.
easiest way to check motor/trans mounts is to look at the 4X4 shifter when getting on the throttle. if it moves to the passenger side when flooring it in forward, driver side mount is broke. if it moves to driver side when flooring it in gear in reverse, passenger side mount is broke.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,065
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From: western washington
91 auto trans will be E4od they will shift funny if one or more of the three sensors is bad speed sensor (VSS) should be on drivers side of trans speedo cable hooks thru this sensor,$18 / rpm sensor is $50 from ford is on top front on gear case,/ TPS throttle position sensor $36 is mounted on IP (injection pump) and needs to be properly adjusted when changed. also the trans will feel funny feels like it shifts twice on the 2/3 shift but that is the locking torq converter. if you touch the brake peddle at speeds over fifty you should feel it unlock and lock back up this means its working correctly. should have overdrive button on dash press this when you don't want over drive. if you donot know if the trans has a upgraded torq converter best not to tow in overdrive...will cook converter...