Last piece of linkage. This is the clutch pedal to z bar rod. Was pretty badly worn on both ends. I welded and reshaped the rod. Then fit it to the bushings and finished it with some emery cloth. Nice and snug now. I redrilled the cotter pin hole after this was taken.





On to the king pins. This was a pretty tough job and and I had to heat the driver side of the axle to almost cherry red to get the old one out. Took the new king pin kit and spindles to a garage for fitment only to find out the kit contained a mismatch of standard and oversized parts. They are ordering a new Moog kit from their supplier.



Trans has been mated to the bell housing and the nos relief lever boot installed. 4 degrees this morning here in Michigan. Way to cold for my old bones to be laying on the garage floor so it will have to wait to go back in for the 40's coming this weekend.

 

Posted in wrong thread. My bad

 

How did you get the inner and outer bearings out of the case? I am having trouble finding the correct puller. The service manual tool looks over complicated for now. I have seen one that is 2 piece collar that is surrounded by a ring, then connected to some sorta rod and screwed off!!! Do not know name or model of said puller.

 

It's been a while but I do not remember the bearings being an issue at all. I believe there are snap rings that hold them in place. Once removed I used a long punch to gently coax them out.

 

As I remember, the bearings remain on the input and main shaft assemblies. If you have a Ford shop manual it spells out the removal procedure. If you don't have a Ford service manual, or other manual (Motors) that fully documents the teardown and reassembly of your transmission I strongly recommend getting one. It will save a lot of time and aggravation. My experiences with Haynes, Clymer and Chilton manuals have been less than positive.

The shift fork assemblies need to be removed to allow the removal of the main and input shaft assemblies. I don't remember whether the cluster shaft has to be removed to allow the cluster gear to drop for clearance on the 3.03 trans to allow for clearance to remove the main and input assemblies

There are snap rings on both bearings that keep the bearings is position. The puller you described is typically used for rear axle bearing removal, and might work for the trans bearing removal from their shaft provided there is adequate clearance between the bearing and adjacent gears.

Like Michigan Larry, I typically use a brass drift and tap the bearings off the shafts, once the shaft assemblies are out of the case.

Hope this helps.

 

Roger do you have a recommendation for a good quality, complete rebuild kit for the 3.03 in my 64? I'd like to replace throwout bearing, clutch &c at the same time. I'd expect that most of the innards are in need of replacement.

 

I usually source all parts locally (Portland, Oregon) though I have used various suppliers I found on the web.

I can't give any specific recommendations as to a supplier, but...I have always had good success with Borg Warner clutch kits.

As for trans parts on the web, I would check to see where the parts, especially bearings, are manufactured. USA and European manufactures typically offer a better product than Asian manufactures. I prefer to use American or European bearings even though they are more pricey
A bit of web searching should turn up several different parts suppliers. I have found that for similar parts and products their pricing was similar.

I have found that the 3.03 is a fairly bullet proof transmission, providing they have been maintained, not overly abused and not run dry. I would be surprised if you need any gears, shafts or other hard parts. You will have to get the trans apart and the pieces cleaned to do a thorough inspection, though.

Typically a kit that includes seals, bearings, small parts and synchro rings will be all you need.

The question of trans oil and what to use. I have always used a name brand 80-90 weight gear oil, as long as the temperature, and trans useage were in a normal range. A bit thinner oil in constant cold climates and possibly a 90-140 weight for a Midwest summer.

These are my opinions based on my experiences. I went through my first 3.03 in 1970 and have done a couple since then....

Good luck.

 

I would agree with Roger. Unless the trans has really been abused the gears and shafts will most likely be ok. The kit I got from Tom's Broncos had everything needed for a 3.03. The front bearing retainer seal they supply is for the smaller diameter input shaft. Our truck used the larger shaft. Not a big deal to order. The clutch parts I would wait until you pull your trans to make sure you order the correct parts.

 

Thank you Roger Carter. I have a set of Service manuals. The puller shown there is overly engineered n my opinion. You are correct in the collar I described is used for axle removal (I forgot that). I sincerely apologize for my delayed reply.