Driveline yoke greasing
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
I undo the u-joint straps on the carrier bearing side and pull the upper section off so I can grease the splines (and the cup side). I use my fingers to slather some on there. It doesn't take much because any extra will be pushed into the cup or out when you slide it together.
If you use this method you need to mark the shaft so that you put it back together exactly as you took it apart. If not, your driveline my no longer be balanced. I use tire chalk to mark a line across the joints so I get it all lined up. Yes, the shaft only goes together one way but once you disconnect the u-joint you can freely spin the shaft and the rear wheels (if it's not on the ground). If it's on the ground (CHOCK THE TIRES) it will not rotate on you (I know...duh) but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It only takes a few moments and gives me peace of mind in case there's an issue.
If you use this method you need to mark the shaft so that you put it back together exactly as you took it apart. If not, your driveline my no longer be balanced. I use tire chalk to mark a line across the joints so I get it all lined up. Yes, the shaft only goes together one way but once you disconnect the u-joint you can freely spin the shaft and the rear wheels (if it's not on the ground). If it's on the ground (CHOCK THE TIRES) it will not rotate on you (I know...duh) but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It only takes a few moments and gives me peace of mind in case there's an issue.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 87
From: North Carolina, Raleigh
any body got pictures/video of this process.. just askin..
I undo the u-joint straps on the carrier bearing side and pull the upper section off so I can grease the splines (and the cup side). I use my fingers to slather some on there. It doesn't take much because any extra will be pushed into the cup or out when you slide it together.
If you use this method you need to mark the shaft so that you put it back together exactly as you took it apart. If not, your driveline my no longer be balanced. I use tire chalk to mark a line across the joints so I get it all lined up. Yes, the shaft only goes together one way but once you disconnect the u-joint you can freely spin the shaft and the rear wheels (if it's not on the ground). If it's on the ground (CHOCK THE TIRES) it will not rotate on you (I know...duh) but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It only takes a few moments and gives me peace of mind in case there's an issue.
If you use this method you need to mark the shaft so that you put it back together exactly as you took it apart. If not, your driveline my no longer be balanced. I use tire chalk to mark a line across the joints so I get it all lined up. Yes, the shaft only goes together one way but once you disconnect the u-joint you can freely spin the shaft and the rear wheels (if it's not on the ground). If it's on the ground (CHOCK THE TIRES) it will not rotate on you (I know...duh) but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It only takes a few moments and gives me peace of mind in case there's an issue.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 870
Likes: 9
From: Carbondale, CO
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 87
From: North Carolina, Raleigh
PERFECT u da mannnnn....
do you need to remove the drive shaft from rear end as well. how about on the center bearing side. does that shaft slide out of bearing.. I thought it had to be pressed out.. maybe it would be a good time to take that , what the whole front drive shaft, to machine shop to have new bearing replaced.. what is best bearing for that a NTN or something else.
do you need to remove the drive shaft from rear end as well. how about on the center bearing side. does that shaft slide out of bearing.. I thought it had to be pressed out.. maybe it would be a good time to take that , what the whole front drive shaft, to machine shop to have new bearing replaced.. what is best bearing for that a NTN or something else.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 324
From: Arizona
I'm on 2 years with no clunk using brake grease with PTFE...my Ford dealer was closed so I just picked it up at one of the chain part stores. So far so good and its a lot cheaper...jury is still out on weather its a suitable sub as I never had the clunk for 13 years with the lube that came with the truck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
PERFECT u da mannnnn....
do you need to remove the drive shaft from rear end as well. how about on the center bearing side. does that shaft slide out of bearing.. I thought it had to be pressed out.. maybe it would be a good time to take that , what the whole front drive shaft, to machine shop to have new bearing replaced.. what is best bearing for that a NTN or something else.
do you need to remove the drive shaft from rear end as well. how about on the center bearing side. does that shaft slide out of bearing.. I thought it had to be pressed out.. maybe it would be a good time to take that , what the whole front drive shaft, to machine shop to have new bearing replaced.. what is best bearing for that a NTN or something else.
If you do replace it I'm not sure of the part number but I only use Dana Spicer or Ford parts on the drivetrain.
Actually when new there was a teflon coating on the splines which made for a smooth drive train. When it starts to wear off the clunk/bump starts. The teflon grease was Ford's solution in a TSB they released. I am guessing that was the fix for warranty claims but when out of warranty they probably recommend a new yoke.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 324
From: Arizona
So I filled up a new mini grease gun with Ford teflon grease today and slid under there and pumped in about 10 shots. Went for a drive and smooth as can be, took all of two minutes. It's been almost 3 years since I installed the zerk and today is the first time I've used it. When I installed it I took a worn, rounded grinder wheel and cut a groove all the way around the splines so the grease could reach them all.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 87
From: North Carolina, Raleigh
thats cool.. does the grove you made match with the zerk fitting by chance?
how hard is that metal. did you wrap tape around the shaft to get a straight line and grind it that way. was it on the truck or on the bench..
why does ford not do this from the factory.. make better sense to me.
how hard is that metal. did you wrap tape around the shaft to get a straight line and grind it that way. was it on the truck or on the bench..
why does ford not do this from the factory.. make better sense to me.
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 324
From: Arizona
thats cool.. does the grove you made match with the zerk fitting by chance?
how hard is that metal. did you wrap tape around the shaft to get a straight line and grind it that way. was it on the truck or on the bench..
why does ford not do this from the factory.. make better sense to me.
how hard is that metal. did you wrap tape around the shaft to get a straight line and grind it that way. was it on the truck or on the bench..
why does ford not do this from the factory.. make better sense to me.
Some of the old Fords did have a zerk there. Ours are new and improved.