'95 Aerostar Sliding Door Problem
The door opens just fine, the latch appears to work good when you lift the latch end of the door. When open the door hangs about 1" lower -- the pinstriping doesn't line up. If you don't lift it up, the latch just bangs the stop...I think the mounting bracket holding up the sliding track has broken (on the inside of the catch/stop), and the track flexes downward as the latch mechanism approaches that ****. Can that track be replaced with home tools? Can the catch/stop **** be replaced (is it a threaded fitting?) or is there more adjustments or fixes that can be done without removing the door?
I believe there is also a sliding pad that is worn, but the local dealer wants $187 for that part alone.
Schools coming soon, and I need to get it fixed.... I'm not sure where to start first - Any advice would be greatly appreciated. - Thanks!
I just picked up a 96 Aerostar and the track itself was broken right next to thatt inner bolt. I did not want to take the interior panel apart (partial or complete - it looks like a fair amount of busy work to get to the inside of the body panel to remove all the bolts that hold the track in place). Instead, I removed the top roller assembly (two nuts on the top come off and then the top edge of the door will start to fall away from the van - have an assistant hold the door so it doesn't swing open too far) then I drilled a small hole through the track and the body itself. I then used a self-tapping sheet metal screw (small) to help hold the track in place. My theory is that it will be a temporary fix for now, and that the only time that sheet metal screw is holding any weight is right when the door is opened. (when the door is closed, the post is holding the weight) . I was careful to use a small screw, and put it as close to the end of the track as possible so that it didn't interfere with the sliding parts.
I just told my wife and kids not to make sure that they slide the door open every time, and not leave it 1 - 3 inches open with the weight on that screw.
Another fix I am considering is having a friend use his MIG welder to fix the break in the track. I am not sure what effects the welder would have on the paint near the track, so I haev held off on that attempt for now.
In any case, that temporary fix has worked quite well for the last two months. The door closes very smoothly now.
Hope this helps - I am not sure what to say about the slider pad, I don't think my stealer charged anywhere near that amount when I needed to fix up my old Aerostar...
Ron
Look at the bracket at the lower inside latch side of the door. There are three bolts that hold this in place. Make sure that the bolts have not come loose.
Also look at the roller and make sure it is there and has not come off. That might cause a 1" droop. Check the path the roller uses.
On mine, when the door would droop (due to worn roller) the upper roller tended to come out of it's track. I had to come and rescue my wife when the door poped out of place a couple of times.
There are three rollers on the door. The one away from the latch supports the left/back of the door. The one at the top keep the door in alignment (in/out) while the lower roller supports the weight (latch end of door) and alighment up/down.
The problem has to be with the lower roller assembly in some way. Take a closer look and let us know what you see.
I talked to the service group at the dealership in Kirkland, but they were clueless and wanted to charge $$$ to 'evaluate'.
In the meantime, the door sounds like it is scraping on open and close. Where does one find such a roller replacement?
That's exactly how it sounds if the roller has failed because the lower track mechanism is scraping along the bottom. The roller can be obtained from the dealer and it's not cheap. I think mine cost about $30.00 just for the roller and I had to disassemble the old roller and press on the new roller. If you have time you might try looking for a replacement roller, but if you're like me you need to fix the sliding door asap. I would avoid getting this roller from the junkyard as it would in all likelihood be in as bad a shape as your original.
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I had to order mine from the dealer. "IF" you a good one at the junk yard you can change the whole assembly. Change just the roller is a real PAIN.
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Thanks rlmdad now I know what's wrong with my '91 I really like her and want to keep her up.
Glad the info helped. I like our '92 extended a lot also. It's great for traveling with the four of us. With two boys it's great that everyone has their own area.
Now I need to change a leaking rack and pinion, but that shouldn't be much trouble.
Ron
mbut,
The latch for the sliding door is at the rear of the door. Sometimes the linking rod from the handle to the rear mechanism gets bent out of shape making it hard to unlatch the door. Since you already have the interior trim off the door try to release the latch manually. Also, check to be sure the door lock is not engaged.
Ron
Last edited by rlmdad; Nov 23, 2003 at 12:42 AM.
Removal of the bottom door bracket on my 93 Aerostar was simple, requiring removal of 3 bolts, then finagle the roller assembly to expose the single bolt that holds the roller on the assembly. The roller piece can then be twisted out of the track.
As described by rlmdad, though, removing the roller itself required a very sturdy vise and a large hammer! Once removed, though, everything was easily reassembled, and I can now have passengers again.
Thanks all for your tips.
Scott




