My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.

From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors

I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.

I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiancé in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.

If nobody has any other ideas I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.

If any of you guys with a lot of experience on these 6.0s have some tips, please feel free to chime in. I have done a lot of searching, reading, and video watching, but I couldn't have found everything there is to find.

Thank you in advance!

 

Well, I certainly am no expert but what I can tell you is you might try running the Archoil additive on the oil side if you want to try and get rid of some stiction, and perhaps put off tearing the injectors out.
Not saying it's a permanent fix but many of us have excellent results, HotShot Secret also makes an additive for stiction however I have read it takes longer to make a difference.
What oil are you running?
Might want to make the switch to a 10-30 syn blend or 5-40 full syn.
I can tell you that with my truck, going to the Archoil and 10-30 Rotella blend made a noticeable difference. She sat outside this morning in 10* and fired right up without even a minor complaint.
Ed will take care of your FICM, no doubt there.

 

A digital gauge of some type could narrow it down for you. Scan Gauge 2 or Torque Pro with the ELM327 blue tooth adapter maybe.

FICM is a good place to start, check it with a volt meter, no less then 45v will do. FICM flash, not the problem. Run full synthetic iol, 5w-40 and some Archoil 9100 for stiction.

Try plugging the truck in or heat the FICM with a hair dryer if you think it could be the issue, may make start-up a little easier.

ICP readings during cranking, main voltage and IPR would help leaky o-rings wouldn't make it rough once started.

 

Anyone used the Torque Pro and ELM327 blue tooth adapter?
Some quick research make it look as if the PLX Kiwi 3 adapter is the best full function adapter for the money?

I will obtain some method of getting injection control readings, I'm used to the C7s and I've never had one of those not throw a code with bad ICP sensor or IPR valve. I have to remember that while this fuel system is similar, that doesn't mean the electronics are identical. Too bad I can't read it with the CAT ET.

Are these HPOPs prone to failure? Is that why you're thinking I need to check the ICP readings?

Thanks guys, I haven't had this thing long and my diesel experience is with Cummins, Cat, and Detroit (and those beautiful V12 air cooled monsters in the M88s). I'm still learning the quirks and mannerisms of this engine and it's systems.

Probably be a week or two until I get a chance to dig into it, gotta finish moving. Keep 'em coming!

 

Yep works great and well worth it,

 

Which adapter specifically do you have? I want to make sure I don't goof up and buy junk.

 

How do these engines act when the glow plugs are failing?
Does anyone know what the resistance is for good glow plugs?
I may as well test that while I'm in there.
I may be stretching, but I keep running stuff through my head.
I have too much time to think about the problem and not enough time to fix it, LOL!

 

I bought this one to use with FORscan, which is a free program you can download, I have used it a few times and it has some nice features, not as advanced as the others but handy to have.


Edit---------
To clarify -- the program has some nice features...........the scan tool works fine as well.

 

Quick and easy way to check the GP's without taking the harness off or removing them.

 

BAFX ELM327 from Amazon

 

could have a bad glow plug or two... once its warmed up a little should smooth out. I've got #2 down and showing a code for it... have you scanned for codes?

 

I do not have a MIL on, but I really should dig my scanner out of tool purgatory and run the OBD2 generic on it to see if I get any codes.

 

a lot of times, it will set a soft code without a light being set. My #2 glow plug down isn't setting a light, but I can see the code for it P0672. Any P0671-P0678 will be a glow plug code with the last number corresponding to the # of the cylinder.

 

Thanks, there's another good thing for me to check!

 

The FICM voltage test is pretty straight forward if you've got a digital volt meter. If not, certainly the easier way is with gauges. There are SO many options in the gauge area - much depends on whether you are looking for a permanent gauge monitoring solution or just something to get you the data you are looking for quick.

If you are liking the permanent solution idea, many REALLY like the new Edge Insight CTS2, even if it is a spendy little bugger.

INSIGHT CTS2

The bluetooth solutions are pretty nice as well and less money, just not permanent for most folks.

If you haven't yet seen it, check out the 'how to' article on FICM testing at:

17. Can I test my FICM to ensure that it is the culprit?

Hope this helps!