So I got a reply from this Ebay vendor (beasyvan) and he said his measurement is 17.5cm (6 7/8") which doesn't make much sense looking at the picture. At any rate I might buy some. That one critical tube could be modified to avoid the PS pump if I can find someone to rework the tube.

 

OK guys Im finally getting to this project. Got the clip off yesterday. Hopefully Ill have some news for you 390 guys soon.

 

A friend of mine bought some for his 468 FE in his 1966 f100. probably 5 years ago. No issues at all.

 

I know this is all about Ebay headers, and FE's , so I have a related question. What are your experiences with heat wrap for headers? Amazon, Ebay, and other sites have a variety... any opinions?

Baja

 

Tech, Exhaust, Exhaust Headers


Wrapped Headers yes or no?
Russ this is something, I've always heard.

After spending the time searching for a set of headers that finally fit your ride and meet your budget needs, it’s obvious you want them to last the test of time. Then you see the guys who wrap their exhaust. If you start reading through forums or asking your fellow gearheads for their opinion about it, you might discover some mixed feelings on the topic. When it comes to wrapping the exhaust, the concern is usually in regards to heat control. Keeping the heat inside the header and out of the engine bay serves an important purpose. You have valuable electrical components, brake lines, fuel lines, etc. that need guarded from extreme heat. But in this article it’s our goal to look at the facts about exhaust wrap and determine whether it’s the right product for you.


There are two basic reasons people wrap their exhaust: most often it's for radiant heat control, but in addition to this, there are slight performance benefits. If you look at products like DEI’s Titanium exhaust wrap, they are rated to drop under the hood temperatures up to 50%, which is significant considering the amount of space we typically have to work with. On the performance end, header wraps are designed to keep the heat inside the header and by containing heat, it increases exhaust gas temperatures. This increase in temperature helps with exhaust scavenging effects which raises exhaust speeds and lowers intake temperatures.

This all sounds great! But, there is more to consider. You should always check with the individual manufacturer's warranty policy before wrapping your headers or exhaust. Most warranties become void once the headers have been wrapped. The reason being: these products are designed to hold the extreme engine temperatures inside the header. By doing this, the cool air cannot circulate around the header and when the pipes cool back down after running your engine it creates condensation inside the header. This can lead to corrosion build up, rust, and wear the headers prematurely.

Whether you’re looking for performance benefits or heat control, if you decide to wrap your exhaust always check the recommended installation procedure from the manufacturer. For proper bonding, some wraps require you to coat the header before you install the wrap and some do not. As an alternative, if you're looking for longevity, you might consider simply having your headers ceramic coated. The same basic principles apply to ceramic coatings which is retaining heat on the inside and reflecting heat on the outside.

My coated headers have reduced heat a great deal.

But the Sanderson headers trap the starter in place with in 1/8" and after month then summer came my oem starter seem to now be dragging. This was when, I switched over to a mini starter
with now after about 7 yrs+- is still not having any starter issues.

I do understand yours is under hood heat with your I-6.
This was what, I did to help with under hood header cooling.
Plus doing this cut away made it much easier working on starter or headers.




Orich

 

Thanks very much Rich, that was informative, and to the point for both considerations. I purchased the Clifford Performance headers, mostly because they deal with 6's all the time, their flange was 3/8" think, and their mandrel bent tubing was 16 ga. and not the 18 ga which most others are. They are split, or two part headers, and have served me well for 3 years now, but like yours, I have had some starter dragging. Like you suggested, I am looking into the titanium wrapping for head deflection reasons. I have done the same inner fender relieving as you have, to allow the engine compartment to 'vent' the area.
My options for ceramic coating, are totally limited here in Baja, to such an extent, as to be not available. My best option, for ceramic coating, seems to be to order a set already ceramic coated from Clifford's, or a comparable supplier.
When I schedule down time for my truck, I try to have all, or most of the parts already in my shop before I begin any project. This takes lots of planning, research, and scheduling, to make sure that I haul the right stuff South with me.
Your help and information is very much appreciated amigo. Thanks again..

Baja

 

So far so good I guess. I'm a little concerned with the passenger side and room in the existing notch in the frame it will be close. I may need to cut a wider notch. I had one bolt break off so I was thinking of drilling it out and putting a nut on the back of a bolt through the hole. The P.O. tried to ram a larger bolt into the whole and that bigger would not come out. All the others were fine. Here are some pics.

 

Those look like car headers with it being overly close into the frame. You should not be needing to cut the frame like that. As you can see mine in post #35
Orich

 

you may think about insulating that black hose or cable that is on the pass. side picture. I concur with orich about the fitment. Maybe the pipe should go more back (over the top of that crossmember) then down? A ball & socket type collecter should fix that.

 

Thanks guys. There was a notch in the frame from the stock exhaust manifold setup. I think Ill be able to fit a pipe through there or perhaps a flex piece off the collector as Gary mentioned. I'm pretty sure this motor came out of a car and was dropped in this truck and they just made it work. These were purchased as an experiment and I think I can make them work one way or another. No turning back now!! Actually... Worse case Ill have to buy long tube headers for the highboy which should fit well. Ill keep ya posted.

 

Yeah, I think your right about it being a car motor, cause the stock exh. log outlet is at a different on the passenger side angle then the trucks passenger side stock manifolds.

The left side in many cases has the same car p/n.

73's-76 have the reinforce ridges running the length on the outers side.

Form what, I notice the if the old 406 427 oem exh. manifolds the frame had to be cut also like yours.



Orich

 

Okay guys. I can finally tell you they fit. I did have to notch out the frame a bit more. This truck has never been so quiet! Overall I think the quality of these things are pretty good. The guys at the muffler shop that put the collectors on and tied everything in to the existing mufflers asked if they were L&L Headers. I hadnt heard of those but will look them up. The passenger side is probably touching the starter. Ill let you know how that plays out. I may have to install a mini starter someday if I have issues.

The old manifolds I removed had Part #s of : C5SE9430C AND C3SE9431B

 

Don't hesitate to use the hammer on them if you have to!

 

Also a heat blanket for the starter could buy you some more time with the oem starter.

Orich

 

2X on the heat blanket Orich... very good point. Although mine is a Six, a starter is a starter, and headers are headers, so any high heat source near a starter, may cause some problems with the stator field swelling with the heat..

Baja